wedge 2.8 injection
Discussion
METERING UNIT MOVES UP AND DOWN. CAR WAS STANDING FOR 9 YEARS STARTED ON OLD PUMP AND FILTERS RUN OK GOOD OIL PRESSURE ETC.THEN I REBUILT THE WHOLE BRAKE SYSTEM. AND SERVICED IT PLUGS ETC... THEN IT WOULD NOT START. CHECKED ALL THE IGNITION AND FUEL SYSTEM.OHMS VOLTS.ETC.ETC. ALL OK .ITS DRIVING ME CRAZY. PLEASE HELP. REGARDS ROCKET RON
CIS fuel distributors hate dirt.
Change fuel filtre.
Then manually op fuel pump to try to flush dist head. (new petrol)
OR,
You are getting the extra fuel from cold start injecters for starting, so runs initially, then dies because your Aux air thingy is not working properly (gunged up) Spray with carb cleaner.
Good luck
Change fuel filtre.
Then manually op fuel pump to try to flush dist head. (new petrol)
OR,
You are getting the extra fuel from cold start injecters for starting, so runs initially, then dies because your Aux air thingy is not working properly (gunged up) Spray with carb cleaner.
Good luck
On my 280i there was a fuel pump cut-off switch in the metering head, which is bypassed during cranking. With no power to the fuel pump the engine would idle for around 7 seconds when hot, or 4 when cold (The fuel pressure is maintaned by a pressurised reservoir). You could check for a rusty bullet connector under the metering head, or bypass the fuel pump relay as a test. Also if you try lifting the metering flap with the ignition on the pump should start up. ( you might want to wear rubber gloves for this to avoid the relay coil discharging through your hand - makes you bang your elbow !)
-Jim
-Jim
rocket ron said:
would a faulty balast resistor cause this problem.
Yes, the ballast resistor is to reduce the voltage to the coil during running, The idea being when cranking the voltage to the coil would be reduced due to the load from the starter motor, on releasing the ignition key from cranking to running the ballast resistor is then in circuit. If a ballast resistor (or wiring) has failed ie. open circuit the car will start and run when the ignition key is in the cranking position but as soon as the ignition key is released to the running position the engine will die.
Hope this makes some sence, and good luck.
Regards,
Chris.
taz turbo said:
rocket ron said:
would a faulty balast resistor cause this problem.
Yes, the ballast resistor is to reduce the voltage to the coil during running, The idea being when cranking the voltage to the coil would be reduced due to the load from the starter motor, on releasing the ignition key from cranking to running the ballast resistor is then in circuit. If a ballast resistor (or wiring) has failed ie. open circuit the car will start and run when the ignition key is in the cranking position but as soon as the ignition key is released to the running position the engine will die.
Hope this makes some sence, and good luck.
Regards,
Chris.
Basically, when starting 12v comes from ignition via starter solonoind, when running 12volts travels through the big blue wire A resiter) and should 8 voltsish at the coil.
Ignition on, look for 8 volts at the coil. Ballast ok.
Does the car fire on first click? (even though it only runs for a few seconds)
If it does not then it has no residual fuel pressure and is failing on fuel not spark.
Remove safety relay and replace with a regular relay. This will make your fuel pump run on ignition only. you will hear it.
To check flow, disconnect return at WUR, connect a peice of hose to a bottle and switch on ign., you should get a decent amount in 30 seconds.
Can't remember exactly what it should be, will check in book later but 1/2 pint from memory.
When you undo the hose at WUR you should have got a small amount of petrol spray out (pressurised)
Post your findings.
Jeff
Edit to say car must be cold when doing flow check, risk of fire !!!!
Edited by jeff m on Wednesday 10th January 23:09
taz turbo said:
rocket ron said:
would a faulty balast resistor cause this problem.
Yes, the ballast resistor is to reduce the voltage to the coil during running, The idea being when cranking the voltage to the coil would be reduced due to the load from the starter motor, on releasing the ignition key from cranking to running the ballast resistor is then in circuit. If a ballast resistor (or wiring) has failed ie. open circuit the car will start and run when the ignition key is in the cranking position but as soon as the ignition key is released to the running position the engine will die.
Hope this makes some sence, and good luck.
Regards,
Chris.
taz turbo said:
rocket ron said:
would a faulty balast resistor cause this problem.
Yes, the ballast resistor is to reduce the voltage to the coil during running, The idea being when cranking the voltage to the coil would be reduced due to the load from the starter motor, on releasing the ignition key from cranking to running the ballast resistor is then in circuit. If a ballast resistor (or wiring) has failed ie. open circuit the car will start and run when the ignition key is in the cranking position but as soon as the ignition key is released to the running position the engine will die.
Hope this makes some sence, and good luck.
Regards,
Chris.
wedg1e said:
Ballast resistor sh@gged or feed to it broken somewhere...?
tried new ballast resistor and coil still the same problem no volts at the coil disconnect the plug from the ignition module and 12 volts appear at the coil .small terminal at the starter motor 12 volts connect it to the starter motor it disappears any ideas.regards rocket ron
Maybe not what you wanna do with a cold engine, but will it respond to throttle, i.e. is this an idle system problem, or more serious??
My (OK, rover engined, so different) 390 had a shocking idle, but would rev and drive ok. Turned out to be the ignition module dying: it couldnt provide enough gain for a decent spark at idle, but when the alternator starts doing its 14.4 volt thing at higher RPMs, the spark got better.
Ed.
My (OK, rover engined, so different) 390 had a shocking idle, but would rev and drive ok. Turned out to be the ignition module dying: it couldnt provide enough gain for a decent spark at idle, but when the alternator starts doing its 14.4 volt thing at higher RPMs, the spark got better.
Ed.
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