WOOHOO - Capn, we have pressure
Discussion
:relief:
Just changed the oil in my 350 for the fist time (my first time, not - hopefully - the cars!). Went through the procedure from Seve's oh-so-excellent book.
The new filter went on about five seconds after the old one came off, and I put in nearly eight litres of oil over the course of half an hour, letting it settle ten minutes, three times.
Its still not quite full, but only quarter inch off the high mark, so...crank the engine.
Before starting, I started up the engine, and timed how long it took for oil pressure to register - about 2 seconds after firing. So, crank, fire one...two...nothing. Stop. Hmm.
Leave it five minutes, scratching head, reading bible. Check the level again. Oil is now spattered all up the dipstick, so it looks like it was moving about to me, so try again. Crank, fire...one...two. Nothing. Stop.
Darn.
Leave it another half hour, check the level again, same. Scratch head, search forums, look for TVR Car Club helpline numbers, try one - no answer. Hmmm. Looks like I'll need an oil filter gasket, then.
One last time, check the leve, down a bit (no oil on the floor, none round the filter or sump plug or filler cap). Add another half litre or so. Leave it another five minutes, check, OK back to .25 inch off full. Crank, fire...one...two..ooh, a twitch...three pressure. Yippee!
That feels good.
Now all I have to worry about is decanting my old black gunk into a container to take to the council tip.
Just changed the oil in my 350 for the fist time (my first time, not - hopefully - the cars!). Went through the procedure from Seve's oh-so-excellent book.
The new filter went on about five seconds after the old one came off, and I put in nearly eight litres of oil over the course of half an hour, letting it settle ten minutes, three times.
Its still not quite full, but only quarter inch off the high mark, so...crank the engine.
Before starting, I started up the engine, and timed how long it took for oil pressure to register - about 2 seconds after firing. So, crank, fire one...two...nothing. Stop. Hmm.
Leave it five minutes, scratching head, reading bible. Check the level again. Oil is now spattered all up the dipstick, so it looks like it was moving about to me, so try again. Crank, fire...one...two. Nothing. Stop.
Darn.
Leave it another half hour, check the level again, same. Scratch head, search forums, look for TVR Car Club helpline numbers, try one - no answer. Hmmm. Looks like I'll need an oil filter gasket, then.
One last time, check the leve, down a bit (no oil on the floor, none round the filter or sump plug or filler cap). Add another half litre or so. Leave it another five minutes, check, OK back to .25 inch off full. Crank, fire...one...two..ooh, a twitch...three pressure. Yippee!
That feels good.
Now all I have to worry about is decanting my old black gunk into a container to take to the council tip.
I'll probably be losing my V8 oil change cherry this weekend. The actual oil choice has been done to death on a recent thread, but, what oil filter is recommended? Do I just use a normal Rover V8 filter, or is it something special due to it being remote? I looked at the ones in Halfords the other week, and they were normal sized, whereas the one currently on my car looks like a block of flats.
When I change the oil I always disconnect an ignition wire to prevent the engine from starting and then crank the engine over on the starter until the oil pressure light goes out.
I then replace the ignition wire and fire up the engine, this reduces the pressure on the bearings and protects the engine.
Whenever I have built (or re-built) an engine I do this with the plugs out so that there is even less pressure on the internal components (main worry is the crank bearings, big and little ends).
I think that this is the best way to do a oil change.

Edited to add;
I always pre-fill the oil filter with oil half an hour before I start the oil change, and top it up a couple of times before I fit it. Its suprising how much oil the filter holds.
Steve beat me to it on the electric pump comment, my engines all have carbs not injection so I would have to drain the carb to do that! Never heard of a set of plugs being damaged by a dousing in petrol vapour? maybe Steve could shed some light on this?
>> Edited by richard sails on Wednesday 23 April 13:40
If you want to turn over on the starter, remove the fuel pump fuse so that you don't pump neat fuel into the cylinders and wash all the oil off and/or flood the spark plugs. Increases the wear and also potentially scraps the plugs if they get too wet. At about £40 a set it makes for an expensive oil change....
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk

Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
So the best way to prime the oil system after an oil change is;
Pre-fill the oil filter with oil half an hour before the oil change, and top it up a couple of times before you fit it
Remove the spark plugs to reduce crankshaft loads, remove fuel supply to the engine to ensure that you dont wash any oil off the cylinder walls.
Crank the engine over with the starter until oil pressure is acheived.
Then put it all back together and drive....
Driving the cars the best bit......
Pre-fill the oil filter with oil half an hour before the oil change, and top it up a couple of times before you fit it
Remove the spark plugs to reduce crankshaft loads, remove fuel supply to the engine to ensure that you dont wash any oil off the cylinder walls.
Crank the engine over with the starter until oil pressure is acheived.
Then put it all back together and drive....

I don't bother taking the plugs out as on a Wedge that can add 40 mins to an hour to the job depending on how coperative they want to be. I don't even fill the oil filter as it is a remote fitting and the contents goes everywhere when you tip it upside down. I have seperate switches for the fuel pumps so that is dead easy to switch off. Usually get pressure after 4 or 5 seconds anyway.
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff