New wedge owner with n00bie questions.
Discussion
What's the octane requirement of a wedge and is leaded gas required?
I have a feeling I'll be pouring in lots of additives.
Is there a "wedge bible" out there? Shop manual?
I bought the car with a megasquirt ecu kit and a wideband O2 sensor.
I can have them installed before bringing the car overseas.
Should I? How much is the gain? How hard is it to tune? How expensive?
What brand oil should I use if any? What weight oil should I use running the car between +5C - +35C?
How much would an MOT type safety inspection cost me in the UK? I'd like to get the car put into
MOT spec in the UK where parts are plentiful before trying to pass a safety exam here.
There's no emmisions testing here thankfully.
I have a feeling I'll be pouring in lots of additives.
Is there a "wedge bible" out there? Shop manual?
I bought the car with a megasquirt ecu kit and a wideband O2 sensor.
I can have them installed before bringing the car overseas.
Should I? How much is the gain? How hard is it to tune? How expensive?
What brand oil should I use if any? What weight oil should I use running the car between +5C - +35C?
How much would an MOT type safety inspection cost me in the UK? I'd like to get the car put into
MOT spec in the UK where parts are plentiful before trying to pass a safety exam here.
There's no emmisions testing here thankfully.
Hi Mike.
I'm glad you have got sorted with a wedge. What is it out of interest? Which one di you go for - some of us might know it.
As for your questions:
Unleaded fuel is fine on the V8s (I can't comment on its suitability for the V6 engines). They will run fine on 95 ron, although 98 and 99 ron make it faster. Standard leaded fuel was 98 ron if I remember correctly, so if you stick to 98 ron, your timing will be set up. If you choose to run on 95, you will need to alter your timinmg slightly (although the car will still run fine if you don't).
There is a wedge bible by Steve Heath. Order from here:
www.shpub.co.uk/ The bible is well worth getting.
An MOT inspection in the UK is about £50. Although it is a legal requirement to have an MOT every year in the UK, quite frankly, I don't think some of them are worth the paper they're written on. There are many cars in the UK that get through the test that perhaps shouldn't. The MOT will not tell you how reliable the car will be, only if it is safe (i.e. are tyres ok, are brakes ok, are lights ok, are emissions within limits etc)
I can't comment on the megasquirt ecu kit and a wideband O2 sensor. What does it do? All I can assume it is what we in the UK would call a "chip"?
As for oil, we all have our own different ideas although the most common appears to be 20W 50. I use Valvoline racing oil and change it every 2000 miles. Again, other people will have different views on what is best. Mobil 1 also comes very highly recommended but is very expensive. This oil should be suitable for the temperature range you state of +5 - +35C
Happy Wedging Mike.
L33.
I'm glad you have got sorted with a wedge. What is it out of interest? Which one di you go for - some of us might know it.
As for your questions:
Unleaded fuel is fine on the V8s (I can't comment on its suitability for the V6 engines). They will run fine on 95 ron, although 98 and 99 ron make it faster. Standard leaded fuel was 98 ron if I remember correctly, so if you stick to 98 ron, your timing will be set up. If you choose to run on 95, you will need to alter your timinmg slightly (although the car will still run fine if you don't).
There is a wedge bible by Steve Heath. Order from here:
www.shpub.co.uk/ The bible is well worth getting.
An MOT inspection in the UK is about £50. Although it is a legal requirement to have an MOT every year in the UK, quite frankly, I don't think some of them are worth the paper they're written on. There are many cars in the UK that get through the test that perhaps shouldn't. The MOT will not tell you how reliable the car will be, only if it is safe (i.e. are tyres ok, are brakes ok, are lights ok, are emissions within limits etc)
I can't comment on the megasquirt ecu kit and a wideband O2 sensor. What does it do? All I can assume it is what we in the UK would call a "chip"?
As for oil, we all have our own different ideas although the most common appears to be 20W 50. I use Valvoline racing oil and change it every 2000 miles. Again, other people will have different views on what is best. Mobil 1 also comes very highly recommended but is very expensive. This oil should be suitable for the temperature range you state of +5 - +35C
Happy Wedging Mike.
L33.
Edited by l33 on Tuesday 20th February 17:20
Fuel: standard it eats 97 or 98 RON. Can be made to run on 95 with less advance (needs ignition timing adaptation of the distributor. Unleaded no problem!
Regarding MOT, think that it doesn't make a difference when you import, as you need to pass the local tests (I think). Seems that it is modified, so importing as a standard wedge seems not possible to me.
There is a wedge 'bible'. You can buy one of Steve Heath. He is on this forum as well, and has its own website were you can order your bible. Rest of information needed, just post on here.
Good that you did find your wedge in the end.
Wish you success with importing it, and perhaps useful to take some spare parts (difficult to get in Canada) with the car to start 'saving' money.
Rob
Regarding MOT, think that it doesn't make a difference when you import, as you need to pass the local tests (I think). Seems that it is modified, so importing as a standard wedge seems not possible to me.
There is a wedge 'bible'. You can buy one of Steve Heath. He is on this forum as well, and has its own website were you can order your bible. Rest of information needed, just post on here.
Good that you did find your wedge in the end.
Wish you success with importing it, and perhaps useful to take some spare parts (difficult to get in Canada) with the car to start 'saving' money.
Rob
It's former owner was Jim from Cambridge.
This is the one...
The importer had two of its automotive engineers inspect the car and prepare me a .pdf report on it.
Here's the problems I needed sorted... http://control-alt-delete.ca/car.pdf
If you notice in the top picture, the left light pod is dipped downward a good 1.5 inches or so.
That's my greatest concern as without headlights I'll never pass a safety here.
BTW, thanks l33 for the words or encouragement, but I'd still rather be driving your car. :P
To answer your question was it out of interest, yes, a general interest in TVR's period. Other
choices I considered were cheaper griff's and an S3 V8. I decided a wedge was better suited to me
here. It's less conspicuous looking when placed in traffic with North American junk. With the wedge's
notoriously loud exhaust system, the less cops that look my way the better.
This is the one...
The importer had two of its automotive engineers inspect the car and prepare me a .pdf report on it.
Here's the problems I needed sorted... http://control-alt-delete.ca/car.pdf
If you notice in the top picture, the left light pod is dipped downward a good 1.5 inches or so.
That's my greatest concern as without headlights I'll never pass a safety here.
BTW, thanks l33 for the words or encouragement, but I'd still rather be driving your car. :P
To answer your question was it out of interest, yes, a general interest in TVR's period. Other
choices I considered were cheaper griff's and an S3 V8. I decided a wedge was better suited to me
here. It's less conspicuous looking when placed in traffic with North American junk. With the wedge's
notoriously loud exhaust system, the less cops that look my way the better.
Edited by brap_brap on Tuesday 20th February 22:50
Me with mini silverback at goodwood festival of speed in horizontal rain..
pm me if you would like a chat, it's a real good one that is...I meant to send some stuff off to jim that I had in my garage. I've found it now, I have a cd rom with some chassis work that was carried out, both sun visors and a tin of paint...
Edited by silverback mike on Tuesday 20th February 22:53
Thanks silverback, a chance to chat, pick up some tips and more importantly learn the car's history is an offer I cannot refuse.
I feel rather intimidated by the duanting task of restoring and maintaining a wedge so far from its homeland. I almost wonder why any TVR
loving Englishman would even consider selling his tvr to a foreign owner. I think that if I were a UK citizen I'd be tempted to tell a guy like me "sorry chap, but I wont sell it to you; you can't get the parts, the servicing, or give it the love it requires".
In the picture you posted with the bonnet up, is that just refelection or is that some sort of primer sprayed over the right headlamp?
If so, what happened?
What spare parts should I bring over with the car? The things that came to my mind were a rotor/cap for the dizzy, some oil and fuel filters and some brake pads. I couldn't really think of anything else besides bulbs and fuses, which I can likely get here anyhow. Is there any "MUST GET" items I ought to bring with the car?
Do you have msn messenger or skype Mike?
I feel rather intimidated by the duanting task of restoring and maintaining a wedge so far from its homeland. I almost wonder why any TVR
loving Englishman would even consider selling his tvr to a foreign owner. I think that if I were a UK citizen I'd be tempted to tell a guy like me "sorry chap, but I wont sell it to you; you can't get the parts, the servicing, or give it the love it requires".
In the picture you posted with the bonnet up, is that just refelection or is that some sort of primer sprayed over the right headlamp?
If so, what happened?
What spare parts should I bring over with the car? The things that came to my mind were a rotor/cap for the dizzy, some oil and fuel filters and some brake pads. I couldn't really think of anything else besides bulbs and fuses, which I can likely get here anyhow. Is there any "MUST GET" items I ought to bring with the car?
Do you have msn messenger or skype Mike?
I have one more question.
After viewing a lot of youtube and google videos of tvrs, I notice one thing in common.
I see/hear a lot of burping the throttle on the downshifts. Why is that? Is that simply
using revs to make it easier on the synchros? How necessary is it to smoothly downshift?
Is the clutch actually used when you do it or is it a case of not using the clutch at all
as I often do in my rx-7's?
After viewing a lot of youtube and google videos of tvrs, I notice one thing in common.
I see/hear a lot of burping the throttle on the downshifts. Why is that? Is that simply
using revs to make it easier on the synchros? How necessary is it to smoothly downshift?
Is the clutch actually used when you do it or is it a case of not using the clutch at all
as I often do in my rx-7's?
brap_brap said:
Thanks silverback, a chance to chat, pick up some tips and more importantly learn the car's history is an offer I cannot refuse.
I feel rather intimidated by the duanting task of restoring and maintaining a wedge so far from its homeland. I almost wonder why any TVR
loving Englishman would even consider selling his tvr to a foreign owner. I think that if I were a UK citizen I'd be tempted to tell a guy like me "sorry chap, but I wont sell it to you; you can't get the parts, the servicing, or give it the love it requires".
In the picture you posted with the bonnet up, is that just refelection or is that some sort of primer sprayed over the right headlamp?
If so, what happened?
What spare parts should I bring over with the car? The things that came to my mind were a rotor/cap for the dizzy, some oil and fuel filters and some brake pads. I couldn't really think of anything else besides bulbs and fuses, which I can likely get here anyhow. Is there any "MUST GET" items I ought to bring with the car?
Do you have msn messenger or skype Mike?
I feel rather intimidated by the duanting task of restoring and maintaining a wedge so far from its homeland. I almost wonder why any TVR
loving Englishman would even consider selling his tvr to a foreign owner. I think that if I were a UK citizen I'd be tempted to tell a guy like me "sorry chap, but I wont sell it to you; you can't get the parts, the servicing, or give it the love it requires".
In the picture you posted with the bonnet up, is that just refelection or is that some sort of primer sprayed over the right headlamp?
If so, what happened?
What spare parts should I bring over with the car? The things that came to my mind were a rotor/cap for the dizzy, some oil and fuel filters and some brake pads. I couldn't really think of anything else besides bulbs and fuses, which I can likely get here anyhow. Is there any "MUST GET" items I ought to bring with the car?
Do you have msn messenger or skype Mike?
Hi
I'll send you an msn message, not too sure what I am on there, silverback something but I have your address (via the pm
) First and foremost, the wedge you have bought is a cracker...ranking up there with my favourite cars.
In relation to taking a car from it's homeland - I think the dutch contingent own half the wedges on the road anyway!!
And yes, I can see why you think the offside light pod looks like it's in primer, it isn't, I think it's the reflection from the land rover trailer next to it.
Don't worry about the spares, the wedge forum is without doubt the friendliest, someone will send stuff over to you if you need it, you should be able to get normal consumable stuff!
I'll call up on msn, speak to you soon.
Mike.
brap_brap said:
I have one more question.
After viewing a lot of youtube and google videos of tvrs, I notice one thing in common.
I see/hear a lot of burping the throttle on the downshifts. Why is that? Is that simply
using revs to make it easier on the synchros? How necessary is it to smoothly downshift?
Is the clutch actually used when you do it or is it a case of not using the clutch at all
as I often do in my rx-7's?
After viewing a lot of youtube and google videos of tvrs, I notice one thing in common.
I see/hear a lot of burping the throttle on the downshifts. Why is that? Is that simply
using revs to make it easier on the synchros? How necessary is it to smoothly downshift?
Is the clutch actually used when you do it or is it a case of not using the clutch at all
as I often do in my rx-7's?
Thats the simulated double de clutch or sustained gearchanging, it matches the revs to engine speed for smoother gearchanging, and so that the revs are there when you need them...also with yours it will pop and bang like a good un when you do it..
and that's a good thing.. Hold yer horses!
I don't consider the car sold until I get payment, however I have not readvertised, as the exporter said she was sold. The headlight pod is fixed now - I remember I left it loose, as shpub was going to send me a prototype link arm to test.
Mike, if you want to send me the sunvisors etc I can attach them to the car, as my final farewell to her, assuming the exporter shows up this weekend with payment.(Will refund your P&P - and there will be beer with your name on it at BBWF).
-Jim
I don't consider the car sold until I get payment, however I have not readvertised, as the exporter said she was sold. The headlight pod is fixed now - I remember I left it loose, as shpub was going to send me a prototype link arm to test.
Mike, if you want to send me the sunvisors etc I can attach them to the car, as my final farewell to her, assuming the exporter shows up this weekend with payment.(Will refund your P&P - and there will be beer with your name on it at BBWF).
-Jim
I didn't know that. They simply told me the car was "secured".
Given that I figured the deal was done. *blush*
Well I wish the weekend would hurry up and arrive!
Don't forget them over-lookable little bits like keys to open the wheel rim covers
or a gas cap key....or maybe the spare tire and jack that was stashed in the garage last
track day.
Given that I figured the deal was done. *blush*
Well I wish the weekend would hurry up and arrive!
Don't forget them over-lookable little bits like keys to open the wheel rim covers
or a gas cap key....or maybe the spare tire and jack that was stashed in the garage last
track day.

Hey, no worries,
The jack and tyre (sic) are in the boot, and the bag with the jack and brace in it also contains the OZ cap key, and the locking wheel nut key. There is only one set of keys, but two files of paperwork, and the handbook is in the pocket under the glovebox.
IIRC the guys at Port Newark wouldn't let me leave anything in the boot when I took a previous car out of the USA.
Regards, Jim
The jack and tyre (sic) are in the boot, and the bag with the jack and brace in it also contains the OZ cap key, and the locking wheel nut key. There is only one set of keys, but two files of paperwork, and the handbook is in the pocket under the glovebox.
IIRC the guys at Port Newark wouldn't let me leave anything in the boot when I took a previous car out of the USA.
Regards, Jim
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and that picture is outside my house...
Whizz me your address again and I'll send them to you.