Outriggers need replacing !! advise required.

[Sireatalot]

Wondering if any of you lovely people can advise of the best way to go.

Both Outriggers on my 280i need replacing badly - only discovered this at the weekend much to my dismay.
The drivers side is extreamly rusted, most of the front tube gone!! and a huge gaping hole at the rear!!. I would post pics but dont know how to Passenger side is alot better but small holes have started to appear and I would like to replace both with newly welded one's.

few questions......
1) does the body need to come off to replace them due to welding requirements, body attachment etc...?
2) what is the best grade steel / thicknesses to use for the replacements ?
3) can the existing ones be used a template to make the new ones or does it have to be 'jigged' professionally ?
4) what's the best rust protection method to use ? is powder coating enough to stop further rust?
5) there are 2 black plastic tubes cable-tied along the passenger one....anybody know what these would be?

Any info you can provide would be fantastic as I would like to do it before the really nice weather graces us and also BBWF07

Sorry for the long posting.
Cheers
Dom

[adam quantrill]

Hi there, not at all.

Most of this has been covered before, take a look at:

www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=371575&hw=+%2Boutriggers

www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=326005&hw=+%2Boutriggers

www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=238617&hw=+%2Boutriggers

You can do the job in situ as long as you can remove the sill covers. It won't be expensive.

No need for jigging - just have the car on its wheels on a level flat surface.

[wedg1e]

Sireatalot said:

few questions......
1) does the body need to come off to replace them due to welding requirements, body attachment etc...?
2) what is the best grade steel / thicknesses to use for the replacements ?
3) can the existing ones be used a template to make the new ones or does it have to be 'jigged' professionally ?
4) what's the best rust protection method to use ? is powder coating enough to stop further rust?
5) there are 2 black plastic tubes cable-tied along the passenger one....anybody know what these would be?

1. No.
2. 38mm or 1.5" outside diameter, 2mm wall, mild steel.
3. Not necessry to 'jig anything', moderate fabrication skills should be enough.
4. Opinions vary. Powder-coating is probably one of the best options but difficult to do localised areas; the whole car would have to go in an oven at 180 degrees.
5. Probably fuel lines.

[honourablepickle]

just done one side on mine
easy enough but took about 20hrs
only real pita was repairing the bottoms of the a and b post steel work that had rotted off as well
redid mine in 3mm stainless - bit of a devil making the plates but at least they won't rust in the future
had to renew the sill carpet as well as it fell to bits taking it off
hp

[djc1001]

5) there are 2 black plastic tubes cable-tied along the passenger one....anybody know what these would be?

Probably fuel lines - flow & return

David

[Sireatalot]

Thanks for the info all.

Some good advise there, I feel alot more confident doing the job now

Couple more questions,
- Is it a good idea to drain the fuel tanks beforehand or just use a barrier between the tanks and weld area when welding ?

Thanks again.
Dom

[honourablepickle]

tanks were a good 6 inches from the rear weld
i just stuck an old leather jacket over the side of the tank and the fuel pump / filter near where i was welding
draining the tanks would possibly make the problem worse as you would have more vapour about which is what catches
hp

[adam quantrill]

Agreed, the petrol will absorb any heat as it boils.

I use a thin aly sheet over the tanks if I'm welding anywhere near them, it dissipates heat and sparks bounce off it.

[wedg1e]

Watch out for angle-grinder sparks on the paintwork too...

[Sireatalot]

HI All.

I have now sourced the tube and plate to make the repairs, at the moment everything is going well. Not going to start the chopping and welding for another couple of weeks due to time restraints.......

couple of things....
Anybody know what the correct replacement fuel pump would be ?? am thinking of replacing whislt doing the outriggers...

Also, by the looks of it, the tubes need replacing from the main backbone outwards on both outriggers !! any ideas on how to get clearance to give it a good seam weld round the top of the tubes ??

Have photos sorted now ( hopefully )

[rev-erend]

Looks to be plenty of room for a seam weld to me .. do you have very short arms ?

[mikeb]

Nice seats as well..... I like 'em.

MikeyB

[honourablepickle]

access to the top is a bit tight - tig weld the top bit with a 2" tungsten and small cap on the torch
or get an old mig torch and bend the end until you can get at everything
i've got one old mig torch which is bent to 90 degrees and the wire still feeds good enough for most stuff
anti splatter spray up the nozzle helps
hp

[Sireatalot]

I have hopefully found a Bristol based mobile welder who is prepared to assist in the task at hand.
As I have no welding skills to mention, I reckon it's a fairly wise choice getting someone else in


Fingers Crossed etc.. that it will be back on the road for BBWF07

[Sireatalot]

A couple more photos for you all.

Cheers
Dom

[wedg1e]

Last time I did one it took two days and I charged £250 inc. all materials.

I'd be interested to know whether I'm competitive

[rev-erend]

Sir Eat.

Did you pass the last MOT ?

Can't see it rusting that much in one year !

[wedg1e]

rev-erend said:

Sir Eat.

Did you pass the last MOT ?

Can't see it rusting that much in one year !

Aye, I've seen a couple that must have had Stevie WOnder as their MOT tester - no way were they still sound 12 months ago!

Proving that despite ever-stringent bullsh!t, the motor trade is as riddled with thieves and vagabonds as ever it was.

[CHJ]

wedg1e said:

Last time I did one it took two days and I charged £250 inc. all materials.

I'd be interested to know whether I'm competitive

It cost me just under £400 a side to have my wedge done at a local classic car restorers, so I'd say £250 is cheap .

My wedge passed its MOT at a well known national chain of garages with outriggers as corroded as those (one side fell off when the sill cover was removed!) just 1 month before I had them replaced! Fortunately the rest of the chassis had previously been hammerited and waxoyled, so the rest was solid.

Chris

[wedg1e]

CHJ said:

wedg1e said:

Last time I did one it took two days and I charged £250 inc. all materials.

I'd be interested to know whether I'm competitive

It cost me just under £400 a side to have my wedge done at a local classic car restorers, so I'd say £250 is cheap .

My wedge passed its MOT at a well known national chain of garages with outriggers as corroded as those (one side fell off when the sill cover was removed!) just 1 month before I had them replaced! Fortunately the rest of the chassis had previously been hammerited and waxoyled, so the rest was solid.

Chris

I can feel a new career coming on