Radiator on early Tasmin (ford powered)
Discussion
hi,
i´m owning a early 280 Tasmin.
my radiator has the ford.-no. 78GB-8005-AA, fabricated by BEHR.
can anybody tell me from which car this radiator is ?(due to TVR it should come from a 3litre capri, but that seams incorrect).
water inlet is top-right, outlet bottom left. the net has a size of around 450 x 380mm. the top water chamber is about 70mm wide.
your help in this matter would be very nice.
thanx in advance,
c.
i´m owning a early 280 Tasmin.
my radiator has the ford.-no. 78GB-8005-AA, fabricated by BEHR.
can anybody tell me from which car this radiator is ?(due to TVR it should come from a 3litre capri, but that seams incorrect).
water inlet is top-right, outlet bottom left. the net has a size of around 450 x 380mm. the top water chamber is about 70mm wide.
your help in this matter would be very nice.
thanx in advance,
c.
thanx for the replies.
there was a reason why i asked about the type of radiator:
if i give mine to re-core the car isnt driveable anymore for 1-2 weeks. mine doesnt leak, but if its hot outside the efficiency isnt enough.
so i thought to buy an old 2nd hand one in the exact dimensions as mine, re-work this with a high efficieny-core...and swop them over a weekend.
and i´m not interested do do ANY modifications to the fixing points or hoses when using a rad that looks similar, but not exact the same.
if i must do any modifications, i would buy a VW or Audi alloy radiator. you´ll get them here new for around 70,-€.
after some new infos today i can say:
It is definately NOT from a cortina, nor Granada the one which comes nearest is from a 2,8i capri.
there was a reason why i asked about the type of radiator:
if i give mine to re-core the car isnt driveable anymore for 1-2 weeks. mine doesnt leak, but if its hot outside the efficiency isnt enough.
so i thought to buy an old 2nd hand one in the exact dimensions as mine, re-work this with a high efficieny-core...and swop them over a weekend.
and i´m not interested do do ANY modifications to the fixing points or hoses when using a rad that looks similar, but not exact the same.
if i must do any modifications, i would buy a VW or Audi alloy radiator. you´ll get them here new for around 70,-€.
after some new infos today i can say:
It is definately NOT from a cortina, nor Granada the one which comes nearest is from a 2,8i capri.
Edited by COMADIS on Thursday 3rd May 17:34
Edited by COMADIS on Thursday 3rd May 17:44
Well I'm having a new ali rad made to order, will be deeper than the standard Ford issue and hopefully more efficient as a result. Don't know how it's going to cost yet (nor do I want to!) and it's taking a few weeks to get made up but should alleviate any overheating worries I have in hot weather.
sure, the easiest thing is to open your vallet, go to your local garage and tell them to sort-out the problem.
my limit is to spent 150,-€ to get the overheating problem sorted!
for ever!!!
and after all the things i tested, its definately a blocked radiator. but b4 i will buy a new "standard" one, i will "use" this opportunity to upgrade the system by a high efficiency-core in the "old" radiator-styling.
my limit is to spent 150,-€ to get the overheating problem sorted!
for ever!!!
and after all the things i tested, its definately a blocked radiator. but b4 i will buy a new "standard" one, i will "use" this opportunity to upgrade the system by a high efficiency-core in the "old" radiator-styling.
COMADIS said:
sure, the easiest thing is to open your vallet, go to your local garage and tell them to sort-out the problem.
my limit is to spent 150,-€ to get the overheating problem sorted!
for ever!!!
and after all the things i tested, its definately a blocked radiator. but b4 i will buy a new "standard" one, i will "use" this opportunity to upgrade the system by a high efficiency-core in the "old" radiator-styling.
my limit is to spent 150,-€ to get the overheating problem sorted!
for ever!!!
and after all the things i tested, its definately a blocked radiator. but b4 i will buy a new "standard" one, i will "use" this opportunity to upgrade the system by a high efficiency-core in the "old" radiator-styling.
We'll have to compare notes once the work is all done! What I really want is the later nose-cone mounted rads, but that would cost even involve more installation costs, so I'm hoping I don't need it. Are you running the standard viscous fan? I had mine changed some time ago to an electric one form a griff, made a big difference.
James MK said:
What I really want is the later nose-cone mounted rads, but that would cost even involve more installation costs, so I'm hoping I don't need it.
I installed a rad in the nose cone on my Tasmin 200 when I dropped the Turbo engine in. More of a necessity as the intercooler needed to sit where the radiator was. I used a radiator from a Sierra Cosworth with the twin fans. You can pick these up second hand for £50. I made up some brackets and mounted it where the body mounts to the chassis. Had no issues at all with overheating. Can post more info/pics etc if anyone is interested. Cheers Steve
again: i do not want to do any modifications on the car or a "nearly" similar rad to fit in my car. i dont have the skills , nor the faciliteis to do it.
phoned today with 3 re-coring companies and the answer was same: recoring the existing rad, core-size 540x380x43mm will cost 350,- to 400,-€...shock!!!!
sure the nose-cone radiator would be better, but again..i´m not able nor willing to do any mods.
i already changed from viscous to a double-stage electric fan and the temperature has went up another 5 degrees!!! and the electric one sucks more than the viscous, has a shroud and is gap-free mounted on the radiator. the core in front of the rad is ice-cold when its running.
with viscous the temperature was between 85 and 90 degrees, now its between 90 and 95.
and i want it stable on 85
phoned today with 3 re-coring companies and the answer was same: recoring the existing rad, core-size 540x380x43mm will cost 350,- to 400,-€...shock!!!!
sure the nose-cone radiator would be better, but again..i´m not able nor willing to do any mods.
i already changed from viscous to a double-stage electric fan and the temperature has went up another 5 degrees!!! and the electric one sucks more than the viscous, has a shroud and is gap-free mounted on the radiator. the core in front of the rad is ice-cold when its running.
with viscous the temperature was between 85 and 90 degrees, now its between 90 and 95.
and i want it stable on 85
May I humbly suggest that you may like to try...
1) Remove coolant from car
2) dry off the chassis with a few paper towels.
3) Remove radiator from car
4) remove rust under radiator support and apply good quality German paint.
5) back flush radiator until all the little stop-leak pellets and brown sludge stop comming out. (Don't wear your best lederhosen for this)
6) admire non-rusted chassis, perhaps a little stroking
7) put radiator back in
8) go to nearest Autobahn for high speed testing
-jim ;o (even numbered items are optional - he he)
1) Remove coolant from car
2) dry off the chassis with a few paper towels.
3) Remove radiator from car
4) remove rust under radiator support and apply good quality German paint.
5) back flush radiator until all the little stop-leak pellets and brown sludge stop comming out. (Don't wear your best lederhosen for this)
6) admire non-rusted chassis, perhaps a little stroking
7) put radiator back in
8) go to nearest Autobahn for high speed testing
-jim ;o (even numbered items are optional - he he)
already flushed the rad a few time ago....no stains, no mud was comming out....so there are 2 possibilities:
1. its normal that these cars run between 90 and 95 degrees, because the original TVR construction isnt efficient enough to keep the engine cooler. (both my tasmins are running like this..also the one with an expension-tank, which also has different ford-radiator than in the one i mostly use)
2. the radiator was already re-cored in the past and somebody used a wrong core there.
...and chassis didnt need to be protected as its still like factory new....
1. its normal that these cars run between 90 and 95 degrees, because the original TVR construction isnt efficient enough to keep the engine cooler. (both my tasmins are running like this..also the one with an expension-tank, which also has different ford-radiator than in the one i mostly use)
2. the radiator was already re-cored in the past and somebody used a wrong core there.
...and chassis didnt need to be protected as its still like factory new....
SEvans said:
James MK said:
What I really want is the later nose-cone mounted rads, but that would cost even involve more installation costs, so I'm hoping I don't need it.
I installed a rad in the nose cone on my Tasmin 200 when I dropped the Turbo engine in. More of a necessity as the intercooler needed to sit where the radiator was. I used a radiator from a Sierra Cosworth with the twin fans. You can pick these up second hand for £50. I made up some brackets and mounted it where the body mounts to the chassis. Had no issues at all with overheating. Can post more info/pics etc if anyone is interested. Cheers Steve
Yes I remember having a good look at wedgefest last year. You did a superb job!
finally sorted out my cooling problem:
fitted a new radiator.....used one from a granada mk2 diesel. (85,-euro, new...cheaper than recore mine-->350,-euro)
core and outer dimension exactly the same as mine. so fits perfect using the original bolts and fixing points on the car. the only differnce has been the in and outlet. i un-soldered and swapped them. so even could use the original hoses.
advantage: the diesel-radiator has a 22mm thread in the lower water chamber to fit a thermostat for an electric cooling fan.
disappointing is, that it took me such a long time to sort this out, as i never expected that it would be the radiator.
the rad was already newly recored 2 years ago (by former owner, invoice of 120,-pound and label on rad to prove) by a company "Serck Marton" http://www.serckintertruck.co.uk/ac1.htm
fitted a new radiator.....used one from a granada mk2 diesel. (85,-euro, new...cheaper than recore mine-->350,-euro)
core and outer dimension exactly the same as mine. so fits perfect using the original bolts and fixing points on the car. the only differnce has been the in and outlet. i un-soldered and swapped them. so even could use the original hoses.
advantage: the diesel-radiator has a 22mm thread in the lower water chamber to fit a thermostat for an electric cooling fan.
disappointing is, that it took me such a long time to sort this out, as i never expected that it would be the radiator.
the rad was already newly recored 2 years ago (by former owner, invoice of 120,-pound and label on rad to prove) by a company "Serck Marton" http://www.serckintertruck.co.uk/ac1.htm
Edited by Comadis on Friday 25th May 23:31
Edited by Comadis on Friday 25th May 23:31
Edited by Comadis on Friday 25th May 23:35
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