Discussion
went out this morning everything running really well first hoon since being serviced.
about an hour in car felt like it had a misfire nothing to servere but seemed to get worse.
it seems to hesitate rather then misfire as you pull thru the revs nothing to jerky just not quite all there, wondering if it could be clutch slip/has new fuel pump so petrol supply should be fine? what do you think?
spent all day cleaning it yesterday as well!!
about an hour in car felt like it had a misfire nothing to servere but seemed to get worse.
it seems to hesitate rather then misfire as you pull thru the revs nothing to jerky just not quite all there, wondering if it could be clutch slip/has new fuel pump so petrol supply should be fine? what do you think?
spent all day cleaning it yesterday as well!!
To test for clutch slip, get it in a high gear, at about 3kRPM and floor it!
If the rev counter rises erratically, you have clutch slip. Of course, you should only try this in 4th, as 5th would mean you were breaking the speed limit!!
Of course.
I guess if you had to replace the fuel pump, the old one might have been ailing, and perhaps in the past someone has upped the fuel pressure on the reg to compensate. Now that you have solved the real problem, maybe its now getting too much fuel. with the pump running, youre looking for 250 - 300kPa, which should settle back to about 180 - 200kPa when the pump stops (IIRC!). Plug a fuel pressure gaige into the CSV hose to check it, and push the air flow meter flap open by hand with the ignition on, engine NOT running.
Ed.
P.S. If you dont feel comfortable trusting my memory on those figures, they are in the Wedge epsitles on TVRwedgepages.
If the rev counter rises erratically, you have clutch slip. Of course, you should only try this in 4th, as 5th would mean you were breaking the speed limit!!
Of course.
I guess if you had to replace the fuel pump, the old one might have been ailing, and perhaps in the past someone has upped the fuel pressure on the reg to compensate. Now that you have solved the real problem, maybe its now getting too much fuel. with the pump running, youre looking for 250 - 300kPa, which should settle back to about 180 - 200kPa when the pump stops (IIRC!). Plug a fuel pressure gaige into the CSV hose to check it, and push the air flow meter flap open by hand with the ignition on, engine NOT running.
Ed.
P.S. If you dont feel comfortable trusting my memory on those figures, they are in the Wedge epsitles on TVRwedgepages.
my rev counter also packed up today!!
the car feels as if it stumbles when you give it some and just doesent feel as pokey as it should im afraid doing the tests you describe are probaly past my skills i was going to replace leads cap arm coil first and see how it goes and then if no joy stick it back in the garage.
if it is the clutch is it worth putting a higher spec one in ie 400/450se can you do this?
and what sort of price do you think i would be looking at
ta andy.
the car feels as if it stumbles when you give it some and just doesent feel as pokey as it should im afraid doing the tests you describe are probaly past my skills i was going to replace leads cap arm coil first and see how it goes and then if no joy stick it back in the garage.
if it is the clutch is it worth putting a higher spec one in ie 400/450se can you do this?
and what sort of price do you think i would be looking at
ta andy.
Nuvver thought.
Has it had a new ignition amp lately?
If it were fuelling, it ought to be apparent as soon as the engine is warm, not only after an hour.
The usual mode of failure of the ignition amp is for the semiconductor inside to break down. The spark voltage will gradually drop, until sparks begin to not happen (3kV per millimetre in air for a spark).
Other thing is to take the dizzycap off and clean the rotor arm with wet&dry, and do the same to the contacts in the cap, as they do arc and get covered in poo after a while.
Once youve put it back together, make sure all the leads are well home, and give it another blast...
Hey, any excuse!
Ed.
Has it had a new ignition amp lately?
If it were fuelling, it ought to be apparent as soon as the engine is warm, not only after an hour.
The usual mode of failure of the ignition amp is for the semiconductor inside to break down. The spark voltage will gradually drop, until sparks begin to not happen (3kV per millimetre in air for a spark).
Other thing is to take the dizzycap off and clean the rotor arm with wet&dry, and do the same to the contacts in the cap, as they do arc and get covered in poo after a while.
Once youve put it back together, make sure all the leads are well home, and give it another blast...
Hey, any excuse!
Ed.
Ppl will think Im weird: 3 posts in a row...
Im smelling a rat here! Has the rev counter totally died, or does it just fart about? The flapper EFI Wedges WILL NOT RUN without the rev counter plugged in Ive tried it, and it seems that the ECU reads the rev counter for its injection pulses. Mine will not start without a rev counter.
If the rev counter farts about when the car stutters, check both the rev counter wiring behind the dash, the white multiplug behind the bonnet release handle, and the single wire somewhere betwee nthe AFM and the ignition amp. It'll have a bullet connector along its length. Make sure this is clean and connected properly, as that wire is the ONLY thing that tells the ECU to squirt fuel. If that breaks, you stop!
The wire reads the output of the ignition amplifier: its a crude way of electrically sensing the position of the crank. Every other spark event, the ecu fires the injectors.
You can put a Griff clutch in it. Be careful to get the right friction plate, as IIRC, the Griff used a T5 gearbox (well I think some of them did...).
Anyhow, it has been covered on here before by people who know much more than I.
Im smelling a rat here! Has the rev counter totally died, or does it just fart about? The flapper EFI Wedges WILL NOT RUN without the rev counter plugged in Ive tried it, and it seems that the ECU reads the rev counter for its injection pulses. Mine will not start without a rev counter.
If the rev counter farts about when the car stutters, check both the rev counter wiring behind the dash, the white multiplug behind the bonnet release handle, and the single wire somewhere betwee nthe AFM and the ignition amp. It'll have a bullet connector along its length. Make sure this is clean and connected properly, as that wire is the ONLY thing that tells the ECU to squirt fuel. If that breaks, you stop!
The wire reads the output of the ignition amplifier: its a crude way of electrically sensing the position of the crank. Every other spark event, the ecu fires the injectors.
You can put a Griff clutch in it. Be careful to get the right friction plate, as IIRC, the Griff used a T5 gearbox (well I think some of them did...).
Anyhow, it has been covered on here before by people who know much more than I.
Edited by ed_crouch on Sunday 6th May 10:35
Edited by ed_crouch on Sunday 6th May 10:37
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