Discussion
False economy unless its less than £50.
You can "upgrade" to something known rather esoterically as a SEAC meter (1, 2, 3, Oooo-ooooh), also known as 4.2 Jag XJ6 meter. This is a bigger meter which will give slightly better flat out flow, but you'll need to have the car tuned to correct the fuelling, as I suspect the calibration of the meters isnt identical.
HTH.
Ed.
P.S. Was told this by ACT, so assumed correct as they know their stuff.
You can "upgrade" to something known rather esoterically as a SEAC meter (1, 2, 3, Oooo-ooooh), also known as 4.2 Jag XJ6 meter. This is a bigger meter which will give slightly better flat out flow, but you'll need to have the car tuned to correct the fuelling, as I suspect the calibration of the meters isnt identical.
HTH.
Ed.
P.S. Was told this by ACT, so assumed correct as they know their stuff.
Edited by ed_crouch on Sunday 13th May 17:01
How is it 'knackered'? There's not much in there to go wrong. Unfortunately each AFM was factory matched to a given ECU so although they can be swapped, you rarely find they'll work properly together.
The Jag meter can be fitted as said; I put one on my car and after three years I'm still not happy with the fuelling. Yes, sometimes it feels like it wants to get airborne but other times it's as flat as a witches tit. Well maybe not THAT flat, but you get the idea.
ISTR Mark Adams saying that what usually happens with the larger AFM is the car runs lean. Can't say I noticed that with mine but then I never did get it RR-ed.
The AFM is basically a flap, pivoting on a spindle that runs in two ball bearings. If dirt or wear affects the bearings then the flap can stick. This can also happen if you get lots of crap sticking to the walls of the tract through the meter. New bearings about a fiver.
The flap turns a 'wiper' that sweeps across a carbon track. The track forms part of a resistor network, the output of which varies with the angle of the flap and hence the airflow. Of course the wiper sweeps back and forth across the same narrow area (fractions of a millimetre) of carbon and can score through it, producing erratic output. The track and resistors are deposited on a ceramic substrate and are non-serviceable except by exchange, and where are you going to get one?
To further complicate matters, the resistor network is 'cut' by laser (or, more likely, milling machine!) to finely match the AFM to the ECU. So swapping AFMs or ECUs can appear to show either of them as faulty as it's rare to get even a close response match.
The flap is biased closed by a flat-wound spring (like a clock mainspring). The usual bu99ering about that people do involves altering the tension on this spring which can produce all mannner of wierd and wonderful running issues.
Best bet? Find out what's wrong with your old AFM and try to repair it or copy the settings/ resistor pack to any replacement unit. Do NOT let your friendly local garage idiot fanny about with it.
The Jag meter can be fitted as said; I put one on my car and after three years I'm still not happy with the fuelling. Yes, sometimes it feels like it wants to get airborne but other times it's as flat as a witches tit. Well maybe not THAT flat, but you get the idea.
ISTR Mark Adams saying that what usually happens with the larger AFM is the car runs lean. Can't say I noticed that with mine but then I never did get it RR-ed.
The AFM is basically a flap, pivoting on a spindle that runs in two ball bearings. If dirt or wear affects the bearings then the flap can stick. This can also happen if you get lots of crap sticking to the walls of the tract through the meter. New bearings about a fiver.
The flap turns a 'wiper' that sweeps across a carbon track. The track forms part of a resistor network, the output of which varies with the angle of the flap and hence the airflow. Of course the wiper sweeps back and forth across the same narrow area (fractions of a millimetre) of carbon and can score through it, producing erratic output. The track and resistors are deposited on a ceramic substrate and are non-serviceable except by exchange, and where are you going to get one?
To further complicate matters, the resistor network is 'cut' by laser (or, more likely, milling machine!) to finely match the AFM to the ECU. So swapping AFMs or ECUs can appear to show either of them as faulty as it's rare to get even a close response match.
The flap is biased closed by a flat-wound spring (like a clock mainspring). The usual bu99ering about that people do involves altering the tension on this spring which can produce all mannner of wierd and wonderful running issues.
Best bet? Find out what's wrong with your old AFM and try to repair it or copy the settings/ resistor pack to any replacement unit. Do NOT let your friendly local garage idiot fanny about with it.
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