Discussion
it started as a mild misfire/stutter during a run 2 weeks when the rev counter packed up but car was still starting and running when i parked it up at home tried the advice given from you guys but no joy.
the car has had a recent service and exhaust so decided to change rotor arm cap new coil new leads and air flow pipie to plenum fitted all this and now it wont start and have exhausted my mechanical know how any advice help would be great.
the car has had a recent service and exhaust so decided to change rotor arm cap new coil new leads and air flow pipie to plenum fitted all this and now it wont start and have exhausted my mechanical know how any advice help would be great.
When you were up to yer elbows in engine, did you accidentally disconnect/damage the wire that goes between the air flow meter and the ignition amplifier?
Theres a bullet connector in the middle of it, and its the only thing that tells the ECU to inject fuel. Without it, the car will make a feeble attempt to start for about 3 seconds (using up any fuel thats kicking around... in the plenum/manifold), and then it'll just crank till the battery is flat.
Ecu plugged in properly?
Try putting a timing strobe on the coil lead and getting the wife/GF/random passer by to crank the engine. Should see flashes of light if its trying to spark.
Basically, be methodical, and go back to basics. Its either not getting spark at the right time, or its not getting fuel.
Fuel pump??
Can you post some more symptoms up?
Ed.
Theres a bullet connector in the middle of it, and its the only thing that tells the ECU to inject fuel. Without it, the car will make a feeble attempt to start for about 3 seconds (using up any fuel thats kicking around... in the plenum/manifold), and then it'll just crank till the battery is flat.
Ecu plugged in properly?
Try putting a timing strobe on the coil lead and getting the wife/GF/random passer by to crank the engine. Should see flashes of light if its trying to spark.
Basically, be methodical, and go back to basics. Its either not getting spark at the right time, or its not getting fuel.
Fuel pump??
Can you post some more symptoms up?
Ed.
Hang on....!! There are several different caps and rotor arms, I bet you have the wrong ones. Or the HT leads are in the wrong order.
i put cap part no DDB 107(LUCAS) and rotor arm part noSTC1857(land rover) for 88 390se purchased from act performance so should be right? followed the diagram in the bible for ht leads looked ok but will look again trying to find time ! car worked fine in the winter!!!
she lives !!!!!!!
got her started i think loose connection somewhere pushed and pulled a few wires dont know what ones and she fired up and the rev counter has started working again!!
who knows what i did but it seems to be working havent driven yet to see if the misfire has cleared but it is running badly on idle seems to be pulsing up and down then when given a blip of throttle will cut out as the revs come down or fight to keep running.
what you reckon ?
just been serviced.
new exhaust.
new cap and arm.
new leads.
new coil.
new plenum pipe all just been fitted.
should i get it set up on the rolling road or just tuned?
ta andy.
got her started i think loose connection somewhere pushed and pulled a few wires dont know what ones and she fired up and the rev counter has started working again!!
who knows what i did but it seems to be working havent driven yet to see if the misfire has cleared but it is running badly on idle seems to be pulsing up and down then when given a blip of throttle will cut out as the revs come down or fight to keep running.
what you reckon ?
just been serviced.
new exhaust.
new cap and arm.
new leads.
new coil.
new plenum pipe all just been fitted.
should i get it set up on the rolling road or just tuned?
ta andy.
The misfire/idle stutter could be the connection into the resistor pack.
This is a fag packet size box on the inner wing with loads of wires going into it.
Get it idling and wiggle this connector to see if the idle speed changes - if it does then take the plug out, clean both sides (not easy) and vaseline it before reconnecting.
For those not in the UK, vaseline is a very light grease (petroleum jelly) that will exclude the air from the connections and help stop corrosion.
Russ
This is a fag packet size box on the inner wing with loads of wires going into it.
Get it idling and wiggle this connector to see if the idle speed changes - if it does then take the plug out, clean both sides (not easy) and vaseline it before reconnecting.
For those not in the UK, vaseline is a very light grease (petroleum jelly) that will exclude the air from the connections and help stop corrosion.
Russ
Regards your idle speed surging up an down: my car does this whilst it's warming up. Once there's 40-50 degrees on the gauge it smooths out, but until then it'll stall at the least provocation.
Doesn't help that my car has my own combination of injection bits on it and has never been near a specialist to get it set up right...
Doesn't help that my car has my own combination of injection bits on it and has never been near a specialist to get it set up right...
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