Headlamp motor / pod adjustment?
Headlamp motor / pod adjustment?
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Discussion

ferlin

Original Poster:

357 posts

269 months

Saturday 2nd June 2007
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Bit of a tricky one....
one headlight does not park flush with the bodywork. Long story but I stripped and switched motors some time ago when I had the dreaded cyclops problem and it hasnt been right since.
Anyway both motors are working fine,it appears that one motor parks in a slighty different position to the other. I can see this by where the crank arm sits.
The crank arm in located properly in the recess and has not worn. The gears in the motor seem to mesh ok
I can of course adjust the linkage to get the pod to sit flush with the body but then the lamp does not pop up fully!
Is it possible to adjust the position where the motor actually parks? so that both crank arms stop in the same place. Thats the best that i can think of now!
Any ideas appreciated as its been like this for a while now.

streaky

19,311 posts

279 months

Sunday 3rd June 2007
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There is an adjustable rubber-tipped stop toowards the front of the pod recess that sets the lowest descent point for the pod - Streaky

ferlin

Original Poster:

357 posts

269 months

Sunday 3rd June 2007
quotequote all
Hi Streaky,thanks for the reply
When the motor linkage is disconnected the pod sits flush with the body and is resting on that rubber strip so its not that needing adjustment.
Im sure its all to do with where the motor/worm/linkage stops.

djc1001

490 posts

276 months

Sunday 3rd June 2007
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I am fairly certain the answer is yes the limit switch positions can be adjusted.
Problem is - don't ask me how - but this was discussed previously - try searching this forum I guess 12 - 18 month ago. There was also reference to a how to refurb / repair article.
Hope this helps - if you crack this, probably a good one to publish on here for others.

David

kevsmev

254 posts

288 months

Sunday 3rd June 2007
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Hi ferlin, I had the same problem when I first got my wedge. I spent ages playing with the adjuster and still couldnt get it good enough. Then it dawned on me that this only adjusts the amount of travel so I slotted the holes in the bracket and rotated the motor a bit and hey presto.
Kev

Wedg1e

27,038 posts

295 months

Sunday 3rd June 2007
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The limit switches in the motor gearbox are non-adjustable. If the crank arms are definitely stopping in different positions it's most likely that one of them has turned on the motor shaft. The shaft has two flats on it that supposedly engage with corresponding flats in the crank arm. Quite often the motor grinds the flats away and the crank moves round on the motor shaft. It's not helped by people manually trying to move the pods.
As said, the threaded adjuster serves only to set the closed position. With this set it's the length of the crank arm that determines how high the pod lifts. There were a couple of different crank arm lengths so if you use a second-hand motor it's wise to check it's the same as your old one.

ferlin

Original Poster:

357 posts

269 months

Tuesday 5th August 2008
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Wedg1e said:
The limit switches in the motor gearbox are non-adjustable. If the crank arms are definitely stopping in different positions it's most likely that one of them has turned on the motor shaft. The shaft has two flats on it that supposedly engage with corresponding flats in the crank arm. Quite often the motor grinds the flats away and the crank moves round on the motor shaft. It's not helped by people manually trying to move the pods.
As said, the threaded adjuster serves only to set the closed position. With this set it's the length of the crank arm that determines how high the pod lifts. There were a couple of different crank arm lengths so if you use a second-hand motor it's wise to check it's the same as your old one.
resurecting an old thread here because I still havent got to the bottom of this problem and its been a while!
Wedg1e are you saying that there is a screw in the motor that adjusts where the closed position is? As the headlight pod still sits around 1/2 inch too high when down.
Crank arm is positioned on the shaft correctly as the flats are not worn.

Edited by ferlin on Tuesday 5th August 09:30

wedgewood

126 posts

218 months

Wednesday 27th August 2008
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I don't know if you've sorted this problem, but I had a similar thing when I changed motors. I stripped and changed the gear wheel in the motor. I assume that I got the wheel one tooth out. Solved it by adjusting it out on the adjustable arm. Lamps come up at slightly different times now though!

GV

2,366 posts

254 months

Wednesday 27th August 2008
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I wrapped the vertical bit of hose where the pod rests with some gaffer to increase its diameter and that lifted the pod to lie level with the rest of the body. Did the trick for me..