Running Problem with 2.8 wedge
Discussion
This sounds similar to a post yesterday.
A 280 should start first click with no pedal.
Two things to check.
Thermotime switch
Sends gas to the "extra" injector, operated by same wire that goes to the stater sol.
Aux Air Device.
Supplies extra air flow when car is cold.(and therefore more gas, CIS,FD plate lifts etc.)
It's really worth taking this off the car to give it good clean. You should be able to see through it when cold. It should close up when engine is hot. Clean and test before putting it back of the car. If you heat it up on the gas cooker (when wife is out)you will see the plate move across and block the hole for normal hot operation.
A 280 should start first click with no pedal.
Two things to check.
Thermotime switch
Sends gas to the "extra" injector, operated by same wire that goes to the stater sol.
Aux Air Device.
Supplies extra air flow when car is cold.(and therefore more gas, CIS,FD plate lifts etc.)
It's really worth taking this off the car to give it good clean. You should be able to see through it when cold. It should close up when engine is hot. Clean and test before putting it back of the car. If you heat it up on the gas cooker (when wife is out)you will see the plate move across and block the hole for normal hot operation.
I know this seems like an obvious one, but you have checked the idle adjustment screw, big one underneath the throttle body, these cab get blocked with debri and/or oil over time, you can take it right out to clean and check, then put it back in a couple of turns and start from there.
Also how much throttle do you need to give it to keep it running, just a touch or full on?
Also how much throttle do you need to give it to keep it running, just a touch or full on?
Richy's suggestion was going to my next suggestion.
That idle screw opens up a little by pass tube past the butterfly.
Carb cleaner and comp air will clear it. (if it's blocked.)
These things need air flow to lift the sensor plate.
Although if your AAD is open (cold) it should run, but not idle when hot.
Still not going?
Is this a runner that has stopped?
Or a car that has been sitting for a while?
Check that the sensor plate moves freely. Stick fingers underneath and push gently. There should be a little pressure from the spring, it should not bind anywhere.
That idle screw opens up a little by pass tube past the butterfly.
Carb cleaner and comp air will clear it. (if it's blocked.)
These things need air flow to lift the sensor plate.
Although if your AAD is open (cold) it should run, but not idle when hot.
Still not going?
Is this a runner that has stopped?
Or a car that has been sitting for a while?
Check that the sensor plate moves freely. Stick fingers underneath and push gently. There should be a little pressure from the spring, it should not bind anywhere.
As mentioned by others, when engine is cold, you need the WUR (warm up tegulator) and the Auxulary Air Device, to give extra air and fuel to keep it runing until everything has warmed up, after this period they back off and engine will run fine without, all things being well. If you keep engine running long enough by holding the throttle open until it has warmed up to normal running temp, is it any better or does the same thing happen, if ok/better when warmed up then definitely related to one of these, if the same thing happens and idle screw is ok, then something very wrong with air/fuel supply/mixture, etc.
I know you said it was running ok before, but that mixture adjustment screw being missing definitely does not sound good to me.
I know you said it was running ok before, but that mixture adjustment screw being missing definitely does not sound good to me.
I've got the same problem which has occured after a garage changed the metering head. Before that the cold starting and running was fine. I've given up on the garage and will investigate myself. Once warmed I've only got a misfire in the when accelerating until about 3 thousand revs when it clears.
I haven't got a clue so intend to take it all apart this summer (whenever that starts). The leads going to the regulator and auxilary air valve show 12 volts both sides which suggest a broken earth somewhere. However the power running through the bi-metallic strips turns off the cold starting and running so I think that if not working that may be causing the warm running misfire.
I have a TVR manual with all the techie bit on this subject so I will try and scan it tomorrow for you.
I haven't got a clue so intend to take it all apart this summer (whenever that starts). The leads going to the regulator and auxilary air valve show 12 volts both sides which suggest a broken earth somewhere. However the power running through the bi-metallic strips turns off the cold starting and running so I think that if not working that may be causing the warm running misfire.
I have a TVR manual with all the techie bit on this subject so I will try and scan it tomorrow for you.
Edited by MJG280 on Monday 2nd July 16:22
I've got a similar starting/running problem with my 2.8i FHC.
It will start fine and run at fast idle, the revs drop as you would expect as engine gets warmer etc. I have had it idling & reving slightly for about 10 minutes checking emissions etc.
As soon as you put any load on the engine, ie drive it for more than a few metres it dies, it'll normally restart straight away, but die within seconds and wont run for a decent amount of time until it's cooled. I've changed the WUR, metering head, distributor and ignition module with know working ones and tested the cold start valve and air flow meter. The only thing I haven't tried is the changing the coil or the fuel pump.
If the coil doesn't cure the fault I'm going to drain the tank in case there's muck being sucked into the pump. My gut reaction is that there is something else wrong which I'm missing.
Any ideas??
cheers
Matt
It will start fine and run at fast idle, the revs drop as you would expect as engine gets warmer etc. I have had it idling & reving slightly for about 10 minutes checking emissions etc.
As soon as you put any load on the engine, ie drive it for more than a few metres it dies, it'll normally restart straight away, but die within seconds and wont run for a decent amount of time until it's cooled. I've changed the WUR, metering head, distributor and ignition module with know working ones and tested the cold start valve and air flow meter. The only thing I haven't tried is the changing the coil or the fuel pump.
If the coil doesn't cure the fault I'm going to drain the tank in case there's muck being sucked into the pump. My gut reaction is that there is something else wrong which I'm missing.
Any ideas??
cheers
Matt
Matt said:
I've got a similar starting/running problem with my 2.8i FHC.
It will start fine and run at fast idle, the revs drop as you would expect as engine gets warmer etc. I have had it idling & reving slightly for about 10 minutes checking emissions etc.
As soon as you put any load on the engine, ie drive it for more than a few metres it dies, it'll normally restart straight away, but die within seconds and wont run for a decent amount of time until it's cooled. I've changed the WUR, metering head, distributor and ignition module with know working ones and tested the cold start valve and air flow meter. The only thing I haven't tried is the changing the coil or the fuel pump.
If the coil doesn't cure the fault I'm going to drain the tank in case there's muck being sucked into the pump. My gut reaction is that there is something else wrong which I'm missing.
Any ideas??
cheers
Matt
It will start fine and run at fast idle, the revs drop as you would expect as engine gets warmer etc. I have had it idling & reving slightly for about 10 minutes checking emissions etc.
As soon as you put any load on the engine, ie drive it for more than a few metres it dies, it'll normally restart straight away, but die within seconds and wont run for a decent amount of time until it's cooled. I've changed the WUR, metering head, distributor and ignition module with know working ones and tested the cold start valve and air flow meter. The only thing I haven't tried is the changing the coil or the fuel pump.
If the coil doesn't cure the fault I'm going to drain the tank in case there's muck being sucked into the pump. My gut reaction is that there is something else wrong which I'm missing.
Any ideas??
cheers
Matt
Here is a thought ....Apart from currently looking after a couple of 450SE I have had little to do with Wedges (I owned one new and had a couple of S/hand ones in amongst the 51 TVR's I have owned) I have not worked on one for 6 years BUT, the last I did work on had an intermidiate swirl pot in between the 2 fuel tanks and this had colapsed internally, the car ran, and would not drive any more than a few feet. This was not the Filter or accumulator but a TVR made unit.
Adrian@
Adrian@
Edited by Adrian@ on Friday 6th July 22:21
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