v8 clutch problem, any ideas?
v8 clutch problem, any ideas?
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Discussion

darrentomlinson

Original Poster:

54 posts

230 months

Wednesday 11th July 2007
quotequote all
bought a 350i, with master the cyinder seized all the way out,
replaced it and pipe,
bled it and the slave cylinder went bang as the rod went over the arm inside the housing,
fixed it, put it back in place, and it drove for 30 miles,
then it started getting a bit hard to get into low gears,
made it home, stripped the slave off, and found the arm inside to be all the way in, hard against the inside case, as though the clutch was fully activated in the on position, but it does not go into gear.???
seems a bit odd as the clutch was not slipping and no judder was present, and it does not go into gear, anybody had this happen?
have been on the v8 rover site and it is unheard of,
called two clutch centres and they say te same.
any ideas?
cheers
Daz.

GreenV8S

31,018 posts

313 months

Wednesday 11th July 2007
quotequote all
Having trouble visualising the situation from your description, but there's a known problem with worn release pivots which can result in the arm coming off the pivot. Is it possible this is your problem?

darrentomlinson

Original Poster:

54 posts

230 months

Wednesday 11th July 2007
quotequote all
the arm inside the housing, has gone loose and is at the back of its housing, if I put a measure in the housing, where the slave cylinder push rogoes, the arm inside is at the back of the housing, as if the clutch was engaged, hope this makes it clearer?
Daz.

darrentomlinson

Original Poster:

54 posts

230 months

Wednesday 11th July 2007
quotequote all
sounds like you could be right.

350zwelgje

1,820 posts

290 months

Wednesday 11th July 2007
quotequote all
I had a problem with the clutch release lever, and had the same symptoms as you are having. My source of the problem (after overhauling the full hydraulic system): The pivot had pierced the lever completely!
Tip given to me was to have a look in the bellhousing: there is a dust cover at the bottom that you can remove, and with a torch I had a look inside and discovered the root cause. Replaced the lever in situ, by making a hole at the bottom of the bellhousing (and covered it later with a plate). The hole is also handy now to re-attach the pushrod if necessary.

Rob

darrentomlinson

Original Poster:

54 posts

230 months

Wednesday 11th July 2007
quotequote all
this might of been self inflicted by me, as I did not know hot to reattach the pastic part to the release lever, so put it back together without attaching it, but I still do not understand why the lever would be stuck in the full thrust/on position,
how did you/and where did you make the hole?
sounds like a cheaper way of doing it than the £300 quoted me so far.
cheers.

350zwelgje

1,820 posts

290 months

Wednesday 11th July 2007
quotequote all
Normally the diaphragm spring of the clutch should push the release bearing back, and with it the lever.
Three things possible:
1. Lever disconnected from the pivot
2. Lever not ok (pivot piercing, or lever bent)
3. Lever disconnected from the release bearing, but think that there is not enough room for this to happen without situation 1.

The hole I made is square at the bottom of the bellhousing. Idea came when I saw a picture of a T5 gearbox, they have an inspection hole. Bellhousing is alloy so it is not to difficult (drill a hole, and find hacksaw - used an electric one, and hole made in less than an hour). Hole is about 6 centimetre wide and 10 centimetres long and front to back of the wedge. Just have a look and avoid weakening the areas that hold bolds.
Keep in mind that making the hole itself and leaving it open, and cause damage to the clutch due to debris. And ruin the benifit of the 'quick and dirty' fix! Cleaning is important, but be carefull as the edges will be sharp.

Rob

350zwelgje

1,820 posts

290 months

Wednesday 11th July 2007
quotequote all
To have a look with a torch won't cost you anything, and that would be my first step.

Rob

darrentomlinson

Original Poster:

54 posts

230 months

Thursday 12th July 2007
quotequote all
many thanks for your help,
top man

rev-erend

21,621 posts

313 months

Thursday 12th July 2007
quotequote all
Two possible problems here ..

1) the lever arm has fallen off of the pivot point..

2) the pivot point has punched a hole on the lever arm.

You should be able to see this with a light / small mechanics mirrop on a stick / feel by hand.

darrentomlinson

Original Poster:

54 posts

230 months

Thursday 12th July 2007
quotequote all
have cut a square hole in the bell housing, the arm has indeed fallen off with only minor damage to the thrust bearing,
i can get one hand inside, but cant seem to get the lever over the thrust bearing to reattach it to the pivot arm, via the flimsy sprung loaded clip on the back of the lever,
is it possible to get this arm back on with the housing still in place I wonder????
any ideas welcome.

rev-erend

21,621 posts

313 months

Thursday 12th July 2007
quotequote all
Darren

Even with the gearbox & engine split - it's quite difficult to get the leaver arm re-attached.

There is a definate knack to it.

Keep trying - it will go back on eventually.

darrentomlinson

Original Poster:

54 posts

230 months

Thursday 12th July 2007
quotequote all
got the arm on, and the rod and plastic clip,
do I push the lever over the two square (they feel square) pins on the thrust bearing before putting the slave cyl back on?

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

271 months

Thursday 12th July 2007
quotequote all
Yeah, the square things are tricky to engage too, but as I recall they are essential. It's been a while, I can't visualise it very well now.

darrentomlinson

Original Poster:

54 posts

230 months

Thursday 12th July 2007
quotequote all
done it, wow a new clutch feel and different car to drive, many thanks to all who contributed,
now how do you stop these damn inlet rubbers leaking?????

350zwelgje

1,820 posts

290 months

Thursday 12th July 2007
quotequote all
Seems that you are getting there! Had the same experience, and had to replace the lever and the attachment to the bearing slider was different. So gave up after 4 hours of trying.... Next weekend, start fresh, have think and adjusted the two sliding blocks, and he presto done in next attempt (<10 minutes). The difficult part is that everything can move in any direction, so to slide the two small metal blocks in the bearing holder is THE thing to give you problems.
Step two was the pivot, as you found out. I unscrewed mine, held the lever in place and then put the pivot back by hand.

Hopefully you fixed it by now.

And don't forget to clean as much as possible, and close the hole! To avoid total clutch disaster.

Rob

darrentomlinson

Original Poster:

54 posts

230 months

Thursday 12th July 2007
quotequote all
350zwelgje you are a diamond, the idea worked and saved me £350,
I owe you a drink at one of the tvr meets,
do you ever go to the one at meriden?
cheers all,
now onto the lights, leaks, stansion fault etc etc etc all part of the fun of owning one yeahhhh
here me coming now, (again)

350zwelgje

1,820 posts

290 months

Thursday 12th July 2007
quotequote all
darrentomlinson said:
350zwelgje you are a diamond, the idea worked and saved me £350,
I owe you a drink at one of the tvr meets,
do you ever go to the one at meriden?
cheers all,
now onto the lights, leaks, stansion fault etc etc etc all part of the fun of owning one yeahhhh
here me coming now, (again)
Ehm, live in Belgium....
But would be nice if we ever meet (is is a small world), either UK or Continent. Good of you to fix it, and can enjoy the raw wedgeness again. Keep those questions coming ;-). This forum is the place to be for wedges.

Rob