***No oilpressure on 400SE----HELP !!!!!
Discussion
On the 400SE of a friend of mine we find no oilpressure.
The details :
please advice
William "Cantus" Waardenburg
The details :
- oil is changed
- oil is pumped up with electric drill through distributor hole and gives 10 psi oilpressure
- After installing distributor and starting the engine, we have no oilpressure at all.
please advice
William "Cantus" Waardenburg
Hi Cantus. Things to check:
1. When you intalled the distributor, did you make sure it engaged OK with the oil pump shaft? Because if it didn't it won't turn the shaft = no pressure.
2. Take the distributor back off and re-check the pressure when you rotate the drive shaft.
3. Check the bottom end of the distributor shaft to make sure it's still intact, the tang is still there to engage with the oil shaft etc...
1. When you intalled the distributor, did you make sure it engaged OK with the oil pump shaft? Because if it didn't it won't turn the shaft = no pressure.
2. Take the distributor back off and re-check the pressure when you rotate the drive shaft.
3. Check the bottom end of the distributor shaft to make sure it's still intact, the tang is still there to engage with the oil shaft etc...
adam quantrill said:
Hi Cantus. Things to check:
1. When you intalled the distributor, did you make sure it engaged OK with the oil pump shaft? Because if it didn't it won't turn the shaft = no pressure.
2. Take the distributor back off and re-check the pressure when you rotate the drive shaft.
3. Check the bottom end of the distributor shaft to make sure it's still intact, the tang is still there to engage with the oil shaft etc...
1. I did check that ! male went into female otherwise distributor is in higher position.1. When you intalled the distributor, did you make sure it engaged OK with the oil pump shaft? Because if it didn't it won't turn the shaft = no pressure.
2. Take the distributor back off and re-check the pressure when you rotate the drive shaft.
3. Check the bottom end of the distributor shaft to make sure it's still intact, the tang is still there to engage with the oil shaft etc...
2. We did that and pressure was back on with electric drill.
3. Checked that as well and both tang are ok and in position.
weired isn't it ?
you could allways take the hose off the filter, and put in a bowl, and take the HT lead off, and turn engine over as the starter should create some presure.
you also may want to take the plugs out so it's spins easier.
at least then you will be able to see if the pumps working, without the risk of doing any harm.
you also may want to take the plugs out so it's spins easier.
at least then you will be able to see if the pumps working, without the risk of doing any harm.
First remark is that the pressure you are able to achieve seems low to me. Never checked myself while priming, so can be absolutely wrong.
Are you sure about the oil pressure relief valve setup? If this sticks open/closed or a combination of both, it can create all sorts of issues. Oil pressure relief spring is the first suspect. For example I changed mine and oilpressure afterwards was like a new-ish engine.
Next possibility:
Perhaps the oil pump base is worn, and you can prime but it won't 'hold' the oil afterwards.
Can be overhauled, think that Adam Quantrill on here mentioned how to do that.
Last resort:
Is the oilpump history known? As when not, I would go for a complete replacement of the gears (not expensive), base if it is worn(a bit more expensive and important to install correctly), and new oilpressure relief plunger (standard, no tadpole...) and relief valve spring (standard not uprated...). Read once some interesting stuff on this, forgot where, could be one of the RV8-specialist websites on how to check old/new base plate, and proper procedure to put everything back together with new parts. Not to difficult when I remember well.
If you do a search for oilpump on pistonheads wedge forum information will come up as well as remember the a few times the pump has been discussed.
Good luck to find the problem and fix it.
Rob
Are you sure about the oil pressure relief valve setup? If this sticks open/closed or a combination of both, it can create all sorts of issues. Oil pressure relief spring is the first suspect. For example I changed mine and oilpressure afterwards was like a new-ish engine.
Next possibility:
Perhaps the oil pump base is worn, and you can prime but it won't 'hold' the oil afterwards.
Can be overhauled, think that Adam Quantrill on here mentioned how to do that.
Last resort:
Is the oilpump history known? As when not, I would go for a complete replacement of the gears (not expensive), base if it is worn(a bit more expensive and important to install correctly), and new oilpressure relief plunger (standard, no tadpole...) and relief valve spring (standard not uprated...). Read once some interesting stuff on this, forgot where, could be one of the RV8-specialist websites on how to check old/new base plate, and proper procedure to put everything back together with new parts. Not to difficult when I remember well.
If you do a search for oilpump on pistonheads wedge forum information will come up as well as remember the a few times the pump has been discussed.
Good luck to find the problem and fix it.
Rob
350zwelgje said:
Are you sure about the oil pressure relief valve setup? If this sticks open/closed or a combination of both, it can create all sorts of issues. Oil pressure relief spring is the first suspect. For example I changed mine and oilpressure afterwards was like a new-ish engine.
Rob
I'll second this. Drove to work one day, all was well. Went to drive home no oil pressure.Rob
It just would not prime to bring up enough oil pressure.
After a few prayers it turned out to be the relief piston seized.
freed it, cleaned it & no problem since.
Hope it is this simple for you.
Brian
Oil pickup in the sump can be a possible cause.
Drop the sump to check, but my best bet would still be on a knackered oilpump. And while you are at it have a look at the oilpump drive gear from the camshaft, these wear and worth replacing if too bad.
Probably you fixed it, and on your way to the BBWF hopefully. If so, have fun, and keep your 2006 reputation up.
Rob
Drop the sump to check, but my best bet would still be on a knackered oilpump. And while you are at it have a look at the oilpump drive gear from the camshaft, these wear and worth replacing if too bad.
Probably you fixed it, and on your way to the BBWF hopefully. If so, have fun, and keep your 2006 reputation up.
Rob
adam quantrill said:
Does the oil light go out?
a) priming
b) running
This is surely the point. Does the light go out? If you had good pressure before the oil change then it's unlikely that anything huge has gone wrong just as a result of dropping the oil and changing the filter. a) priming
b) running
Edited by adam quantrill on Friday 20th July 12:08
So, does the light go out? If so, then you may just have a knackered guage, or the sender unit may be clogged with something or you may have disrputed the wiring from the sender unit. The pressure on the drill @ 2000rpm equivelant looks low. but there's no earthly reason why if you can get an indicated 10psi on the drill you couldn't get 10psi with the engine. The pump either works or it doesn't. I had something VERY similar once, turned out the nut that held the wire to the sender was loose so that as the engine was running the vibes make the contact intermittent, and the reading much lower than it should be.
Andy
Edited to add: If the light does not go out within 5 seconds of engine start then you definately have a pump / pick up problem.
Edited by andymadmak on Monday 23 July 10:54
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