Leaky 350i sump
Discussion
I don't often get underneath my car but I need to fix a leaky sump.
I've checked as far as possible online but can't find a sump pan like mine with what appears to be two drain plugs, one where I'd expect to find it and one about an inch higher on the other side.
The higher one appears to be cross threaded as some thread is exposed and won't tighten anymore.
The other is tight but both plugs seep oil.
Apart from new seals, and it might be obvious and my ignorance but whats with the two plugs?
I've checked as far as possible online but can't find a sump pan like mine with what appears to be two drain plugs, one where I'd expect to find it and one about an inch higher on the other side.
The higher one appears to be cross threaded as some thread is exposed and won't tighten anymore.
The other is tight but both plugs seep oil.
Apart from new seals, and it might be obvious and my ignorance but whats with the two plugs?
Never seen that before... unless someone in the past did some sneaky-beaky work on the oil system. Maybe the second plug is a magnetic chip detector?!?
Theres millions (OK, thousands) of Rover engines out theres doing top service with only 1 sump plug, so I'd remove the sump, remove the dappy plug and weld the hole up. Then clean the mating faces up with petrol, new cork gasket, Hylomar both sides and refit sump. Dont overtighten the bolts as this squashes the gasket and it then leaks. Cork gaskets are a poo idea really, but you cant get a flat enough surface on a steel pressing to use the paper ones as they have too little compliance...
Perhaps someone should invent a silicone sump seal?!?
Oh yeah, might be an idea to wire brush the bolts (tedious I know!), degrease them and then apply threadlocker to stop the bolts loosening off: leaks.
Ed.
Theres millions (OK, thousands) of Rover engines out theres doing top service with only 1 sump plug, so I'd remove the sump, remove the dappy plug and weld the hole up. Then clean the mating faces up with petrol, new cork gasket, Hylomar both sides and refit sump. Dont overtighten the bolts as this squashes the gasket and it then leaks. Cork gaskets are a poo idea really, but you cant get a flat enough surface on a steel pressing to use the paper ones as they have too little compliance...
Perhaps someone should invent a silicone sump seal?!?
Oh yeah, might be an idea to wire brush the bolts (tedious I know!), degrease them and then apply threadlocker to stop the bolts loosening off: leaks.
Ed.
It's an oil level sensor. The SDi's used to have a meter or warning light, can't remember which offhand. Usually the wire has been snipped off but theoretically you could wire up something to a warning light in the dash.
My old P4 has an oil level transducer, and you can press a button on the dash and the petrol guage shows the oil level. Excellent when you're on a long trip, and saves getting hands dirty with dipsticks.
My old P4 has an oil level transducer, and you can press a button on the dash and the petrol guage shows the oil level. Excellent when you're on a long trip, and saves getting hands dirty with dipsticks.
adam quantrill said:
Before welding, just try unscrewing it then winding PTFE tape round the thread (from a plumbing or DIY shop) and putting it back in. You wind the tape round in the opposite direction to tightening I seem to remember. It might do the trick.
Us Plumbers always wind in the same direction of the thread otherwise the PTFE tape is pushed up the thread and creates a 'do-nut'.Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



ISTR seeing a Rangey sump with one fitted.