headlamp pod wont go down
headlamp pod wont go down
Author
Discussion

racingsnake

Original Poster:

1,071 posts

255 months

Tuesday 7th August 2007
quotequote all
Hi guy's wondering if anyone has any ideas?
My wedge has always had one headlamp (NS) pop up and sit slightly lower than the other.
So the other day I look at the wedge bible and it advises adjusting the rose jointed crank arm inside the pod - no prob's I think and duly remove the headlight unit and adjust till they are level.
On replacing the light unit and swithing on off the light the left one stays up - bugger.
So I go under the wing and use the manual knob to lower it.
It goes down but now sits 2" higher when lowered than the bodywork!
Arse...
Looking at the fuse box the 2nd relay down on the left was quite warm, does this control the movement of the pod?
If so why doesn't it work when I remove it and replace it with the one for the right light unit I am perplexed here and MOT is due!

Both lights pop up and work but only the one I didn't tamper with goes back down what am I doing wrong?

TVRleigh

6,553 posts

243 months

Tuesday 7th August 2007
quotequote all
I posted a link that show all the electrical relays and pop control.
sould be in the last few days.

Aslo you may have adjusted the rod too much. can you raise and lower the pods fine buy hand. also if you lower them do they come back up to the right hight.

dwgriffith

436 posts

251 months

Tuesday 7th August 2007
quotequote all
If the MOT is due and you don't get it sorted in time raise them up and pull the supply to them to leave them in the up position. They don't need to retract to pass the mot , they only have to be seen with the beam in the right place when turned on.

SEvans

1,191 posts

297 months

Tuesday 7th August 2007
quotequote all
I think you need to adjust the length of the link so that the pods are level when down. Not sure the height is adjustable as such if they are not rising enough (can be a problem as you get older.....so I'm told !!) I'd then be looking for something that is worn or loose, like the arm on the motor. The stops can be adjusted but I think these are used to stop any play rather than limiting travel. Cheers Steve

racingsnake

Original Poster:

1,071 posts

255 months

Wednesday 8th August 2007
quotequote all
Thanks guys I think maybe the rose joints are worn, cos if I adjust the crank arm to correct length for the pod to sit level with the other when up, its then to high when lowered ho hum.
Will take another look tonight thanks for helping.

islander

371 posts

276 months

Wednesday 8th August 2007
quotequote all
I have just completely stripped my headlight pods and replaced the motor.

You can get some adjustment from the rose jointed link. However, there is one other thing to check and that is that the arm from the motor stops in the right place. This is controlled by a gear motor and if the gear has been taken out and replaced at some stage it may well have been put back in so that shaft it turns is not quite in the right place.
Too set it up correctly you will need to take the motor out before you do that, make sure the motor is back in the closed position which you can do with pod removed, then If you look down on the drive that comes out of the motor, and look carefully at the gearbox housing behind it you will see a mark showing a 0 and the word stop, the flat edges of the drive shaft need to be pointing at that point, if they dont you need to take the gearbox cover off and take the gear out and reset it in the right orientation. Then put back together and then use the link to do any final adjustments.

I have found doing this has got the pod back in it hole perfectly, I am still yet to take the other one apart and check it (which is not perfectly in the hole) but by feel from underneath I can tell that the arm on the shaft of the motor is not in the same place as the other one.

I have got pictures may try and post later.

ferlin

357 posts

269 months

Wednesday 8th August 2007
quotequote all
Thanks for that Islander.I would be interested too in the pictures. It might be the answer to my problem too which has stumped me for ages...
http://www.petrolheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...

islander

371 posts

276 months

Wednesday 8th August 2007
quotequote all
Picture of motor body, it says park not stop as I originally said.

www.photobox.co.uk/album/album_fullsize.html?c_pho...

Picture of gear with cover removed.

www.photobox.co.uk/album/album_fullsize.html?c_pho...

If somebody clever than me could embed them that would be great!

TVRleigh

6,553 posts

243 months

Friday 10th August 2007
quotequote all
Hi If you email them to leigh at dbm.org.uk

I'll embed them,

Your stupid site wants me to register to view them.

I took my pods out last night as I'm planing to take the rad out.

One was slow so I took it apart, and the winding have melted in the past, and looks like a gear was stripped, and re-built.

So look like I'll try and get hold of a S/H one or re-con unit and replace it.

racingsnake

Original Poster:

1,071 posts

255 months

Thursday 16th August 2007
quotequote all
Ok guys finaly getting somewhere the reason the pod stuck up was a short circuit on the wiring in the pod, fixed that it goes up and down no probs now.

The height / adjustment issue though is down to the crank arm from the lift motor output shaft having rounded on the flat drive shaft. (The arm that links the motor to the rose jointed arm)
Where on earth can I get one these does anyone sell them, or is it a scrapyard challenge for a dead TR7 or wedge?

TVRleigh

6,553 posts

243 months

Thursday 16th August 2007
quotequote all
you could just file it flat again and put a spacer in. or weld it up and re-grind it. make sure you take the shaft out of the plastic gear, else it may melt.

chedder

1,329 posts

237 months

Thursday 16th August 2007
quotequote all
Similar thing happened on mine, ended up heating it up with a blowtorch and 'adjusted' it with a hammer, a bit of filing and it worked a treat

P.S Brakes cooled down on the Cupra yet? wink

TVRleigh

6,553 posts

243 months

Thursday 16th August 2007
quotequote all
Other option would be to make the hole bigger so you could take the motor out with the bracket attached. and then weld the bracket to the shaft.

islander

371 posts

276 months

Thursday 16th August 2007
quotequote all
Hi RacingSnake

I have a complete pair of spare motors that I have taken certain bits off, but both are generally complete. I didnt manage to find any suppliers for spares parts for the motors, you can get complete exchange refurbed units at £70 a go.

Maybe able to help you with the part you are after, drop me a line.

Martin

dickymint

29,122 posts

288 months

Thursday 16th August 2007
quotequote all
Did Shpub say he was looking at making these?

racingsnake

Original Poster:

1,071 posts

255 months

Monday 20th August 2007
quotequote all
Martin you have mail ta buddy

islander

371 posts

276 months

Monday 20th August 2007
quotequote all
Hi Rick, you have mail aswell including photos, feel free to post on here if you want as I never seem to be able to do it!

For the record the arms on the TR7 are different, they have a round post rather than the ball joint on them. I am sure there will be a way of making them work!

ferlin

357 posts

269 months

Tuesday 5th August 2008
quotequote all
Hi Islander, would you still have those pictures and be able to mail them to me please?