rough running again

[gsx600]

Well after filling up again yesterday at my local Shell garage, car is now not idling properly all the time. I thought initially fuel again, so carried on to work 20 miles away, then anther 40 to London last night,

Put another £20 in and is still running rougly at idle, but will still pull like a steam train on an open road, so thinking maybe not fuel now

I think I have a problem with the ecu as these are the syptoms that my other ecu does, all though has an even worse idle

Anyone know where I could send an ecu to be check for faults before I rip it all out after christmas and fit my megasquirt ?

Anyone locally have a flapper ecu I can try ?

Anyone know if this is a common fault on old Rover flapper ecu ?

Ta

[TVRleigh(BBWR)]

Hi Paul,

I have a spare flapper and ECU, I can send you both if you want. problem is there at home, and im going to Ireland at 6am tomorrow.

you could also try blocking off the Extra air valve, to see if that is playing up.

Also check for air leaks with some easy start.

[gsx600]

No rush for it Leigh as still runs, so will be looking at wiring and air leaks this weekend, after sorting out the air suspension on the WSV ( as is now not raising automatically)

If I still get issues I'll borrow your ecu at another meet

[TVRleigh(BBWR)]

Ok no problem,

Shame I did not know before.

Also there is a sticky thread on who has spair parts.

Some times the ECR just need a re-solder as due to there age can get a lot of dry solder joints.

[gsx600]

[quote=TVRleigh(BBWR)]
Some times the ECR just need a re-solder as due to there age can get a lot of dry solder joints.
[/quote]Yeah that's wha I was thinking, but don't forget wot I told you yesterday of my ham fisted hands, can take engines out, but not create miniscule things with bare hands, does not help that I'm probably blind

[TVRleigh(BBWR)]

Well if you find it is the ECU, then if you give me the other two, I'll re-solder them for you.

[rev-erend]

Paul

If the car was OK before topping up and bad after then it's the fuel..

When the tankful is gone (not long in a wedge) .. fill up somewhere else (and stop using cheap Tesco unleaded..) and if it's still bad then change / sand blast the plugs.

[gsx600]

Cheers Rev

That's what I thought , but first fill was from Shell Reading which then went rough, 2nd fill at another shell miles away in London. So will attempt to clean plugs this weekend and see if that makes any difference

[gsx600]

[quote=TVRleigh(BBWR)]Hi Paul,

I have a spare flapper and ECU, I can send you both if you want. problem is there at home, and im going to Ireland at 6am tomorrow.

you could also try blocking off the Extra air valve, to see if that is playing up.

Also check for air leaks with some easy start.
[/quote]

Hi Leigh which one is the extra air valve and how best to block, as just about to clean plugs and fire her up again

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

See arrow for location of extra air valve.
I'm sure you can find somthing to block the rubber hoses with.

[leorest]

gsx600 said:

Anyone know where I could send an ecu to be check for faults before I rip it all out after christmas and fit my megasquirt ?
Anyone locally have a flapper ecu I can try ?

Don't know if it's what you call local or not but I'm in Salisbury and we could swap ecu's for a couple of hours this weekend if you like. I could also re-flow all of the solder joints on your ECU as I have already done that to mine with positive results. Would be interested to talk/see Megasquirt too as I plan to go that route eventually.
Email me via profile if you're interested.
Leo

[gsx600]

Cheers for the offer Leo, but after last nights trip involving getting back on a recovery truck at 23.00, I think it might be a bit more serious than the ecu.

Started up ok in it's usual rough self, after cleaning plugs and refilling with optimex finest, once warm was running ok, but then starts to run roughly below 2k with shuddering, but when you open it up performs really well.

Then start to shudder quite badly and sounded like running on 4 or so cylinders with no pull, swapped over to my other ecu and did the same, started to nurse it home with no power and finaaly dies about 1/2 mile away from home. So know thoughts are going from simple to dam complicated

Power resistor pack half knackered - hence feeling like driving a road chisel hammer

Cam knackered or snapped and only moving half the valves ? Hence the misfiring

or

Lobes on crank gone or crank snapped hence the large vibration and no power


Any other ideas to make my friday Batt back on charge and ready to fire up this weekend, but what basic checks to make, remove rocker covers, compression check

By the way, oil pressure and water temp all ok, no oil dumped anywhere, so hoping it's simple as getting too cold too take engine out

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

I would think it to do with the extra air conectors, there a link to info on the Fault finding loan equipment WiKi.
Also see here for info to block off the extra air http://www.g33.co.uk/fuel_injection.htm

Also these are a good read
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Download...
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Download...

As the air these provide at high rev's will be only about 5%, but at low revs could be 90%

Also worth changing the ECU temp sender.

Also do you have the orignal AFM as they could have a faulty track at the lower end.

Edited by TVRleigh_BBWR on Friday 5th October 12:27

Edited by TVRleigh_BBWR on Friday 5th October 12:48

[Wedg1e]

Not read whole thread so excuse if I state bleeding obvious...

Vibration that bad could mean you've lost a bank of injectors, say due to loss of 12v feed to one half of resistor pack. You've swapped ECU which would tend to rule out blown power transistor - unless both ECUs have the same fault!
Rough running at low revs but OK when hoofing it could be the throttle pot - I had identical symptoms a few years ago. A wire had corroded through exiting the pot. Another possibility could be the AFM wiper bearings sticking causing the flap to jam at random points and bu99er up the fuelling; my first Jag AFM did that (see my website for the stripdown!). Once you get enough air through it, it unsticks and will work OK at high flow, then as soon as you slow down the flap sticks again.
Other thing to check would be the injection system earth to back of left-hand cylinder head and engine to battery/ chassis straps.

[gsx600]

Well I started the car today, and starts fine, but as it got warmer it started to go bad again,

So took of the temp sender and shorted that out with scissors as could not find paper clip, seem to run a lot better thyen.

So then took of the eav and blanked of the piped with masking tape, and also seemed to run slighty better, but not had the courage for a drive out yet.

So going to get a temp sender online tomorrow and see what happens then. Shame as the temp sender is less than 2 years old

[rev-erend]

Paul - have you tried 98 ron petrol



Rather than the old chip fat

[gsx600]

THink I need 100 plus some fuel additive tabs Hopefully pick up my megasquirt in a couple of weeks

[TVRleigh_BBWR]

gsx600 said:

So going to get a temp sender online tomorrow and see what happens then. Shame as the temp sender is less than 2 years old

There are lots of them on ebay currently.
Or I can post you my spare one, tomorrow.

Also I did a thread about 2 months ago on the resistance values for the temp.
I think there is a list on the link I posted also.

[gsx600]

Yeah measured the resistance , and was slight out, but could not get my temp probe to work, but as soon as I shorted out car ran fine.

Rimmers only charging @ 10 so not that expensive, but will look at ebay later too

[rev-erend]

gsx600 said:

THink I need 100 plus some fuel additive tabs Hopefully pick up my megasquirt in a couple of weeks

Going for the old MS ehh..

Well I have my Emerald K3 and I'm currently attaching the trigger wheel (behind pulley).

If you need any 6 whole spacers - I have about 10 !