rad fan switch
Discussion
What youre looking for is the car to get up to 90degrees on the gauge, then the fan comes on, and the temperature should FALL to about 85 or so, then the fan cuts out. Repeat!
If the fan cant reduce the engine temp with the car stationary on a hot day (whats one of them then?!?), then you will have problems. Mine is bog standard and has no problems. If the fuelling and/or ignition are skewiff, it can cause the engine to overheat, so its worth checking these before condemning the whole cooling system.
Ed.
If the fan cant reduce the engine temp with the car stationary on a hot day (whats one of them then?!?), then you will have problems. Mine is bog standard and has no problems. If the fuelling and/or ignition are skewiff, it can cause the engine to overheat, so its worth checking these before condemning the whole cooling system.
Ed.
I assume your "adjustable thermostat control" uses a sensor which is mounted in a different (thermal) part of the coolant circuit to the original otter switch, so all bets are off even assuming that everything is correctly calibrated, which is unlikely.
Assuming the instrument temp gauge is good (big leap of faith) then set the control for maximum temp and start engine from cold. Watch carefully and don't get distracted, when the temp is slightly above normal running temp slowly turn the adjustment until the fan cuts in. Now observe what temperatures the fan cuts in/out at and fine tune if necessary.
Notice the judicious use of the "Ass..." word
Assuming the instrument temp gauge is good (big leap of faith) then set the control for maximum temp and start engine from cold. Watch carefully and don't get distracted, when the temp is slightly above normal running temp slowly turn the adjustment until the fan cuts in. Now observe what temperatures the fan cuts in/out at and fine tune if necessary.
Notice the judicious use of the "Ass..." word
On my old Rad, there was a socket and the otter switch was just a press fit. held in with the clip.
I think as both sides are copper it would be posible to solder in it with a plumbers blow torch.
Aslo the temp. can vary depending on where you are fitting the probe.
Maplins do a cool temp. gun for £30 handy for working out where to put it, and a more acurate reading.
I think as both sides are copper it would be posible to solder in it with a plumbers blow torch.
Aslo the temp. can vary depending on where you are fitting the probe.
Maplins do a cool temp. gun for £30 handy for working out where to put it, and a more acurate reading.
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