Steve Heath droplink - steering problems ?
Discussion
Hi, have just got a 390se - steering wanders a bit ! TVRFix advised at the last 2 services that the steering rack need rebuilding. I noticed that one of the Steve Heath droplinks had a bolt missing. It was bolted to the ARB, but not the lower wishbone.
Could this be the cause of the problem ? Can I use a normal bolt ?
Having taken the rack out, when I turn the splines on the rack, there doesn't seem to be much play.
cheers, Richard.
Could this be the cause of the problem ? Can I use a normal bolt ?
Having taken the rack out, when I turn the splines on the rack, there doesn't seem to be much play.
cheers, Richard.
It's an M10 set screw.
Send me a PM with your address and I'll post a replacement bolt with the washers.
Steve Heath
Forgot to say that with the bolt missing the arb is effectively disconnected and has no effect so I doubt it will cause any steering issues. If the steering is wandering about then there is something wrong like a loose bit of suspension or a worn ball joint or rack. Worth checking that everything is solid.
Send me a PM with your address and I'll post a replacement bolt with the washers.
Steve Heath
Forgot to say that with the bolt missing the arb is effectively disconnected and has no effect so I doubt it will cause any steering issues. If the steering is wandering about then there is something wrong like a loose bit of suspension or a worn ball joint or rack. Worth checking that everything is solid.
Edited by shpub on Sunday 14th October 18:48
As long as it's a normal bolt, that's fine I've got some M10s, but thanks for the offer.
Re the existing rack, it's off the car now. When I turn the spline with moles grips, the arms move from side to side straight away. Does this imply that it's not the rack ?
Is there any easy way to test the steering joints or the bearing ?
Re the existing rack, it's off the car now. When I turn the spline with moles grips, the arms move from side to side straight away. Does this imply that it's not the rack ?
Is there any easy way to test the steering joints or the bearing ?
dickyoldchap said:
When I turn the spline with moles grips
Make sure you don't damage the splines doing that!dickyoldchap said:
Is there any easy way to test the steering joints or the bearing ?
The usual failure mode is that you get play in the steering rack and joints. This is usually easy to find with the rack fitted, just by moving the wheel gently from side to side and feeling for any free play - if you have any then you will need a glamorous assistant to rock the wheel while you feel the various joints to see where the play is coming from. Play on the upper and lower ball joints can be harder to feel because they are loaded when the car is at rest, but you can often feel it by hanging off the side of the wheel, or by using a pry by to test each joint. If you have dismantled the suspension already, it's a lot easier to feel play in these joints.dickyoldchap said:
Hi, have just got a 390se - steering wanders a bit ! TVRFix advised at the last 2 services that the steering rack need rebuilding. I noticed that one of the Steve Heath droplinks had a bolt missing. It was bolted to the ARB, but not the lower wishbone.
Could this be the cause of the problem ? Can I use a normal bolt ?
Having taken the rack out, when I turn the splines on the rack, there doesn't seem to be much play.
cheers, Richard.
I've had this bolt go missing too!. Effectively the ARB is disconnected and therefore the roll stiffness is greatly reduced. If you drive along a straght piece of road, observing the usual barmy HSE disclaimers whilst simultaneously applying common sense, and apply a small slow steering oscillation you will observe quite an alarming/amusing amount of body roll. The reason for the bolts disapearance was my own fault. I failed to use any liquid thread lock which IIRC the instructions mentioned! If you source your own replacment bolt just get one simmilar the to remaining one on the other side and make sure you use the apropriate washers. Probably best to get a copy of Steve's installation instructions and actually follow them Could this be the cause of the problem ? Can I use a normal bolt ?
Having taken the rack out, when I turn the splines on the rack, there doesn't seem to be much play.
cheers, Richard.
Think Steve said either was ok from what I remember.
On mine my drop link does not move at all on the bar, in fact can't even get it on another 1/8 inch to get the pclip in, but has not popped off and even MOT guy tried and gave up, saying well if it does ever come of not going to be a catastropy
On mine my drop link does not move at all on the bar, in fact can't even get it on another 1/8 inch to get the pclip in, but has not popped off and even MOT guy tried and gave up, saying well if it does ever come of not going to be a catastropy
The latest instructions that go out with the links certainly recommend using loctite. The website is using the old version (r1). I'll sort it out when I get back tomorrow. The bolt comes with a spring washer to prevent it from coming undone but a drop of loctite doesn't go amiss as they say.
The rubber spacer can go on either side - whichever makes more sense.
The rubber spacer can go on either side - whichever makes more sense.
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
One thing I can't work out, is what side of the rose Joint do you put the rubber spacer. as the car pic its on one side and the demo pic its on the other side.
Either will work but best to do the same both sides. With the spherical joint on first followed by the spacer will achieve a greater roll stiffness than the other way round. At some point I'll do the measurements and maths to see how in/significant the difference is.Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff