lifting the body

[blaineuk]

need to lif the body on my 400se, was woundeing how many nuts/bolts hold the body on to the chassie, only looking to lift it enough to repair the out riggers at the moment, but that could all change once i can see the outrigger tops.
cheers
blaine

[L33]

I don't know mate but yours will be different as it is the race tuned 270.4bhp version.


There is a fair bit of stuff in the bible about replacing the outriggers and I know its fairly well documented on the Chim and Griff sites - not that I've been looking mind

[blaineuk]

the bible is upto the series2 390, maybe the same for the 400 but know a few people have done them. been poking around tonight only one side needs doing, but do i do both while i an at it?

[jmorgan]

It has been suggested that it can be done without moving the body. Sure someone has done some work? I have had the front corners done without lifting.

[cuneus]

Hamish originally wrote this - HTH

TVR 400SE – Removal of Body from Chassis

FULL DETAILS


1. GENERAL COMMENTS

* Take lots of photos before you start and as you proceed
* Label all wiring connections as they are being disconnected
* Bag and label small loose items, bolts for specific fittings etc
* Label all hoses/pipes being disconnected. If the hose is removed completely and is “shaped” - mark one end connection
* Useful sources of labels are freezer bag tags you can write on (from “Lakeland Ltd” or similar source) – also use masking tape.
* Small “zip fastened” bags are useful (My local source is “Office World” – stationery supplier – described as “write on bags&#8221
* CAUTION – the following refers to a specific 1989 built 1990 registered TVR 400 SE with “Flapper” air flow meter for engine – there may be differences of location or fittings on other cars.
* All bolts/nuts directly tightening on to fibreglass should be backed up with penny washers in order to spread load
* Bolt sizes appear to be mostly metric sizes around the body, but engine and some fittings use A/F sizes
* When body is off chassis keep doors closed– they stiffen the body
* Basic philosophy – leave engine and running gear on chassis, main wiring harness in body.



2. PROCEDURE USED

In this case the car was on a workshop four post hoist (lorry hoist)

Disconnections made as listed separately below – item 3.


BODY/CHASSIS DISMOUNTING SEQUENCE

Mark wheel positions on hoist

Support body on 4 tall axle stands located at front of foot wells and base of bulkhead behind seats

Mark positions of axle stands on floor. (spray paint and numbered location)

Lower hoist slowly – check body separating from mounting points

Mark rubber shims/location – different thickness may be used at individual locations

Pass “support tubes” over top of chassis close to axle stands

Raise body so support tubes take weight off axle stands

Re-position axle stands outboard of hoist

Lower hoist so tubes/body land on tall axle stands

Roll chassis out from under body

Raise hoist and pick up body (on support tubes) with hoist

Remove axle stands

Fit additional support at rear overhang of body (under boot) and in front of front wheel arches – just enough to take weight of overhanging body and avoid any “sagging” at ends over time.


Materials :-

* 1 length (7.8 metres) of 76mm outside diameter 3mm wall thickness mild steel tube (cut into 2 pieces) was more than enough to span the lorry hoist used in this case)
* 4 Tall axle stands
* Various wooden blocks



Alternative possible lifting methods for body

- use two post hoist – I understand this is used with the arms lifting body off chassis at locations close to wheel arches (I believe Peninsula Automotive use this method)

- a squad of strong friends prepared to “grunt” a bit ( I know 8 people is sufficient for a Reliant Scimitar GTE possibly 6 would do for an open TVR) – untried by me!

- jack up a corner at a time and support on blocks – raise a small amount each time (max 1 inch) to avoid twisting body too much.





3. DISCONNECTIONS


Disconnect and remove battery (contact car alarm/immobiliser supplier for procedure to follow when disconnecting battery - if alarm is fitted)


INSIDE


1. Remove seats (Note there may be spacers under the rear of the seats) – four bolts each seat
2. Remove seat belt securing bolts from the side of the transmission tunnel (note spacers underneath on these bolts between body and chassis)
3. Remove outer seat belt bolts from floor/chassis
4. Remove gear lever knob
5. Remove footwell carpets
6. Remove bolts through floor at outer corner of footwell (1 each side)
7. Remove rear quarter trim (and speakers)
8. Disconnect shoulder and reel bolts for seatbelts
9. Disconnect bolts (2 each side) through floor which secure tubular support for roof and shoulder mounting for seat belt (behind “b” post)
10. Disconnect 2 bolts through boot floor securing body to chassis





UNDERNEATH

1. Disconnect speedometer cable from gearbox
2. Remove/find spacers between body and chassis in way of inner bolts of seat belts – on sides of transmission tunnel (Total 4 pieces)
3. Disconnect fuel inlet hose to fuel pump and drain fuel tanks
4. Disconnect swirl pot hoses at left and right fuel tanks and hose at fuel pump
5. Disconnect small bore hose (vent to LH tank) from top of swirlpot
6. Remove fuel swirlpot
7. Remove upper hose between fuel tanks (at top of tanks)
8. Disconnect fuel return hose from engine to near side fuel tank at in-line connector below nearside fuel tank
9. Disconnect wiring from fuel pump (note: + and – connections)
10. Disconnect fuel tank level gauge wiring at sender on offside fuel tank
11. Disconnect handbrake cable from callipers
12. Remove exhaust finishing trim through rear body (secured by 1 pinch bolt)
13. Remove exhaust final bend
14. Remove exhaust support under boot (2 bolts)
15. Cut various cable ties securing hoses and wiring
16. Disconnect earth wire from nearside shock absorber (upper) bracket on chassis. (Check is same on off side)
17. Disconnect starter solenoid wire (small wire on spade terminal)
18. Drain cooling water via radiator hose connection
19. Disconnect 2 bolts securing body to chassis front cross tube (near radiator bottom)





UNDER BONNET / ENGINE BAY



1. Remove bonnet
2. Cut various cable ties
3. Unbolt oil filter bracket from body
4. Unbolt oil thermostat from body)
5. Hand starter cable from battery on engine
6. Disconnect throttle cable at plenum end
7. Disconnect bonnet release cable at latch end (if threaded through hoses/wiring on engine
8. Unplug power resistor and air flow meter connections
9. Remove air flow meter and ducting to plenum (cover over plenum inlet)
10. Disconnect heater water valve cable at valve
11. Disconnect fuel pipes to engine (mark which is which)
12. Disconnect and remove main water pipes between engine and radiator
13. Disconnect 2 hoses at radiator header tank (mark which is which) and hang over engine
14. Disconnect earth wiring (from front) at resistor block securing bolt
15. Disconnect wiring from resistor blocks (mark which is which)
16. Disconnect wiring to horn
17. Disconnect earth connection wire from ignition coil mounting bolt
18. Disconnect 2 hoses to heater
19. Disconnect earth strap from rear offside engine lifting bracket
20. Disconnect 2 earth connections from rear nearside engine lifting bracket
21. Disconnect wire to oil pressure switch
22. Disconnect wire to oil pressure transmitter
23. Disconnect alternator wiring (2 wires)
24. Disconnect wire to temperature sensor at front of block
25. Disconnect electrical plug at distributor
26. Disconnect link wire from offside engine wiring harness at nearside wiring harness (round plug/socket)
27. Unplug 4 offside fuel injector wiring plugs
28. Unplug 1 wiring connector at offside of plenum
29. Unplug 1 wiring connector at ?differential pressure switch? sensor in front (offside, top) of engine
30. Pull back engine wiring harness (offside) from engine and lay on body
31. Disconnect 2 hoses to oil cooler from oil thermostat
32. Disconnect 2 brake pipes from brake master cylinder and bend clear of body
33. Disconnect 1 brake pipe from pressure limiting valve and bend clear of body
34. Disconnect clutch hydraulic pipe from clutch master cylinder
35. Disconnect vacuum hose between plenum and brake servo
36. Strap/cable-tie oil filter to engine (clear of body)
37. Pull speedometer cable clear of engine
38. Unplug 4 near side fuel injector plugs (connections under plenum are awkward – home made tools were used to unhook the plug securing wire clips)
39. Unplug 2 connectors at front of nearside inlet manifold
40. Pull back near side engine wiring harness and lay on body
41. Disconnect two bolts securing body to brackets on chassis inboard of wheel arch (near coil on offside and near resistors on near side)





OFFSIDE FRONT WHEEL ARCH



1. Remove wheel

2. Mark steering column joint (close to bulkhead) and disconnect

3. Thread 2 fuel pipes out engine bay through inner wing top (note 2 grommets – 1 in upper, 1 in lower body moulding)

4. Remove/cut clips securing fuel pipes to body in wheel arch

5. Refit wheel



BODY/CHASSIS BOLT CONNECTIONS

(note some of these are under carpets or behind trim)



· 2 abt .. x .. mm @ centre bottom of boot – chassis to rear of diff

· 4 abt .. x .. mm (2 each side) @ base of “b” post steel tube (to rear of door aperture)

· 2 abt .. x .. mm (1 each side) @ outboard seat (lap) belt mounting

· 2 abt .. x .. mm (1 each side) @ inboard seat (lap) belt mounting on vertical side of transmission tunnel

· 2 abt .. x .. mm (1 each side) @ inner edge of footwells adjacent to gearbox

· 2 abt .. x .. mm (1 each side) @ front of footwells towards outer edges of floor

· 2 abt .. x .. mm (1 each side) @ under bonnet – close to wheel arches (near ign coil and resistors)

· 2 abt .. x .. mm (1 each side) @ front cross tube near radiator

[Gandalf]

Had mine done at Dulford earlier this year and as I recall it was 6 points per side and lift by about 11" to allow sufficient access to both the side outriggers and front & rear cross members. Cant see how it would be possible to do one side at a time without seriously twisting the shell!

PS Superb job done by Richard and the guys at Dulford Chassis is now A1 and probably stronger than when it left the factory.
boocks I`m already missing that car..................

[pwd95]

Which country did it go to Steve?

[BadRedWedge]

pwd95 said:

Which country did it go to Steve?

I think its gone to Bristol Wyn

[pwd95]

that's close enough.

[GV]

1. You don't need to lift the body
2. The outrigger removal is straight forward provided you have a decent angle grinder.
3. The mild steel required can be easily sourced
4. Use the services of a mobile welder who will do the job in about 30 mins.
5. On an SE you will need to cut the door sills away from the body
6. Make sure you keep the car on flat ground and keep it stable once the riggers are off the body

Job done

Andy

[L33]

GV said:

5. On an SE you will need to cut the door sills away from the body
6. Make sure you keep the car on flat ground and keep it stable once the riggers are off the body
Job done
Andy

I don't understand....
How could you cut the sills off and keep the car on flat ground to weld new sills on? When the car would need to be jacked up or on ramps to get the access required???

[GV]

L33 said:

GV said:

5. On an SE you will need to cut the door sills away from the body
6. Make sure you keep the car on flat ground and keep it stable once the riggers are off the body
Job done
Andy

I don't understand....
How could you cut the sills off and keep the car on flat ground to weld new sills on? When the car would need to be jacked up or on ramps to get the access required???

Assuming the car is on axle stands of course... I know the SE door sills are bonded to the body unlike 350 types that are screwed in.

[BadRedWedge]

GV said:

1. You don't need to lift the body
2. The outrigger removal is straight forward provided you have a decent angle grinder.
3. The mild steel required can be easily sourced
4. Use the services of a mobile welder who will do the job in about 30 mins.
5. On an SE you will need to cut the door sills away from the body
6. Make sure you keep the car on flat ground and keep it stable once the riggers are off the body

Job done

Andy

What a load of BOLLOX !!

[combine]

If you need any help to lift give us a ring . Still scratching around under this blue monster to clean rust off and painting anti rust acid on .

[BadRedWedge]

combine said:

If you need any help to lift give us a ring .

What he said Blaine

[AJP4.2]

BadRedWedge said:

combine said:

If you need any help to lift give us a ring .

What he said Blaine

Count me in too if and when you need some help

[blaineuk]

AJP4.2 said:

BadRedWedge said:

combine said:

If you need any help to lift give us a ring .

What he said Blaine

Count me in too if and when you need some help

thanks for your offers of help, will let you know when i am ready.

[Wedg1e]

BadRedWedge said:

GV said:

1. You don't need to lift the body
2. The outrigger removal is straight forward provided you have a decent angle grinder.
3. The mild steel required can be easily sourced
4. Use the services of a mobile welder who will do the job in about 30 mins.
5. On an SE you will need to cut the door sills away from the body
6. Make sure you keep the car on flat ground and keep it stable once the riggers are off the body

Job done

Andy

What a load of BOLLOX !!

Not really, as long as you're not talking about the 400/450SE shell with no removable sill covers (which is what I think he's getting at in point 5). In fact the US-spec 280s also had integral sills (PHer 'stec' has one such). Most 280/350/390s can be repaired exactly as GV describes; I've done two myself.

Edit: quoted me happy

Edited by Wedg1e on Tuesday 20th November 00:15

[BadRedWedge]

Wedg1e said:

BadRedWedge said:

GV said:

1. You don't need to lift the body
2. The outrigger removal is straight forward provided you have a decent angle grinder.
3. The mild steel required can be easily sourced
4. Use the services of a mobile welder who will do the job in about 30 mins.
5. On an SE you will need to cut the door sills away from the body
6. Make sure you keep the car on flat ground and keep it stable once the riggers are off the body

Job done

Andy

What a load of BOLLOX !!

Not really, as long as you're not talking about the 400/450SE shell with no removable sill covers (which is what I think he's getting at in point 5). In fact the US-spec 280s also had integral sills (PHer 'stec' has one such). Most 280/350/390s can be repaired exactly as GV describes; I've done two myself.

Edit: quoted me happy

I agree Wedg1e ( as I would not dare do any other ) on a 350 etc etc, but the first line of Blaines first post says 400SE. Who in their right mind is going to cut the sills of a 400SE, they aint bonded to the body, they are the body !! so its bollox.

Quote me happy along with you

[Graham]

Wedg1e said:

In fact the US-spec 280s also had integral sills (PHer 'stec' has one such). Most 280/350/390s can be repaired exactly as GV describes; I've done two myself.

Not all of them... my 1985 s1.5 280i rag top is a usa spec car and that has removable sill covers... Quite a good job actually as I've removed them a couple of times on the track