Correct Ride Height, Please
Discussion
I just installed a set of "upgraded springs", from a 350i and the nose of my 280i is now 2 3/8" higher. There's now a gap between the stock tire and fender of 3" at the top. It looks like I could go 4 wheeling - it just doesn't look right.
I'm sure the clearance was on the shy side previously with 3 7/8" between the front frame tow hook bottom to the ground. But now it measures 6 1/4.
Is this normal/correct? Anyone have a ride height dimension I can compare to please?
I'm sure the clearance was on the shy side previously with 3 7/8" between the front frame tow hook bottom to the ground. But now it measures 6 1/4.
Is this normal/correct? Anyone have a ride height dimension I can compare to please?
I can see from researching previous posts that ride height is not consistent or well established, so I will change my question a bit.
Does anyone know the relationship between spring height and ride height? Perhaps someone with adjustable ride height front shocks? If I knew the # of turns on the shock height adj nut for a known drop and the shock thread pitch, I could calculate how much of the coil to cut off on the bottom end of the spring - to drop me approx 1" in ride height. I'd whack it off in small increments, but it is a bit time consuming to disassemble/assemble between each nibble...
I would have purchased the adjustable fronts, but no one makes them available in the states. Believe me, it was painful to pay more for NON-adjustable ones.
At least I am using the method of dropping the inner link of the lower A arm. Thanks for pointing this out in the Bible, Steve!
Thanks in advance.
Does anyone know the relationship between spring height and ride height? Perhaps someone with adjustable ride height front shocks? If I knew the # of turns on the shock height adj nut for a known drop and the shock thread pitch, I could calculate how much of the coil to cut off on the bottom end of the spring - to drop me approx 1" in ride height. I'd whack it off in small increments, but it is a bit time consuming to disassemble/assemble between each nibble...
I would have purchased the adjustable fronts, but no one makes them available in the states. Believe me, it was painful to pay more for NON-adjustable ones.
At least I am using the method of dropping the inner link of the lower A arm. Thanks for pointing this out in the Bible, Steve!
Thanks in advance.
In the TVR 280i USA Spec book that comes with the car.
It gives the dimensions.
The only height one is 47" from ground to the top of the windscreen frame.
I could measure my front for you, but I know my car is low. I have seen it next to ten others at "Woodwork". Mine was the lowest.
Your camber must be way off, manual gives 0 and =/- 1/2 if that's any help.
What shocks did you buy?
Didn't Marshall have adjustable Spax, I think they are about the same price as the non adj Spax.
It gives the dimensions.
The only height one is 47" from ground to the top of the windscreen frame.
I could measure my front for you, but I know my car is low. I have seen it next to ten others at "Woodwork". Mine was the lowest.
Your camber must be way off, manual gives 0 and =/- 1/2 if that's any help.
What shocks did you buy?
Didn't Marshall have adjustable Spax, I think they are about the same price as the non adj Spax.
When I asked the same question no one was able to provide any evidence of a manufacturers specification for ride height.
It seems the best you can do is to set it such that you have no issues with ground clearance, or wheel to bodywork clearance. Also, it's obviously good to have the front slightly lower than the back and if you throw these minimal requirements into a one way trial by error method of adjustment it will be time consuming enough.
The geometries will change so a full setup will be necessary if the ride height is different to when this was last done.
I'm sure you are aware that cutting the springs will increase their rate and if you over do the shortening you can shim it back up but that obviously wont de-rate the spring.
Best of luck + measure twice cut once
It seems the best you can do is to set it such that you have no issues with ground clearance, or wheel to bodywork clearance. Also, it's obviously good to have the front slightly lower than the back and if you throw these minimal requirements into a one way trial by error method of adjustment it will be time consuming enough.
The geometries will change so a full setup will be necessary if the ride height is different to when this was last done.
I'm sure you are aware that cutting the springs will increase their rate and if you over do the shortening you can shim it back up but that obviously wont de-rate the spring.
Best of luck + measure twice cut once
If they are new springs, would it not be best to get them changed.
They are either too long or the wrong rate.
I think there was a post for the rate of the SEAC ones.
I have some new 400SE ones I could mesure for you also.
Steve Heath should know the rates.
If the springs are the right length and rate then the car should sit right.
you may need to do you math's again for the new weight of the front of the car. remember to calc the weight of all fluids.
They are either too long or the wrong rate.
I think there was a post for the rate of the SEAC ones.
I have some new 400SE ones I could mesure for you also.
Steve Heath should know the rates.
If the springs are the right length and rate then the car should sit right.
you may need to do you math's again for the new weight of the front of the car. remember to calc the weight of all fluids.
I guess all I can do is trial an error. Disassemble, cut, assemble.... Thanks for the total car height, that gives me something to go from. I think it will come down to what looks good and has a reasonable ride height. 3 7/8 was definitely not enough but 6 1/4 is too much. I'm thinking 5" at the front frame hooks would be good. Unfortunately I must wait for replacement spring perch pads. One was torn so I glued it back together and to the spring - yet another project to whittle the thing off.
As for the shocks, they are adjustable AVO's - but not ride height adjust. I won't be returning the springs either, as they are made of unobtanium on this side of the pond.
I like the measure twice, cut once - just like my pop taught me. But measure what?? In this case it's cut then measure; repeat as necessary. I know what you mean, though - I only have one set of springs and I don't want to turn spacers...
SteveH believes my height was too low to begin with and I must agree. But over a 3" gap from stock tires to front fender isn't right either.
Thanks all.
As for the shocks, they are adjustable AVO's - but not ride height adjust. I won't be returning the springs either, as they are made of unobtanium on this side of the pond.
I like the measure twice, cut once - just like my pop taught me. But measure what?? In this case it's cut then measure; repeat as necessary. I know what you mean, though - I only have one set of springs and I don't want to turn spacers...
SteveH believes my height was too low to begin with and I must agree. But over a 3" gap from stock tires to front fender isn't right either.
Thanks all.
The 280/350 standard or original ride height is quite high. By today's standards looks almost silly. Try and see a factory advert / leaflet which shows this. Will e.mail a scan if req.
Factory data for 350i quotes 150mm (6in) ground clearance.
I believe RT (UK Wedge specialist) uses a 4 finger test. So for the front - from top of tyre to wheel arch roughly 1 hand or 4 finger clearance.
I agree with MickyB it may settle upto an inch in 1st 100 mls.
Are you sure the spring is correctly rotated with the spring end fully seated in the socket in the lower wishbone - makes a big difference.
Can you get the rubbers over there? - not available in UK.
r's
David
Factory data for 350i quotes 150mm (6in) ground clearance.
I believe RT (UK Wedge specialist) uses a 4 finger test. So for the front - from top of tyre to wheel arch roughly 1 hand or 4 finger clearance.
I agree with MickyB it may settle upto an inch in 1st 100 mls.
Are you sure the spring is correctly rotated with the spring end fully seated in the socket in the lower wishbone - makes a big difference.
Can you get the rubbers over there? - not available in UK.
r's
David
Thanks again guys. Very interesting about the 4 fingers - that's about the 3 inches I am seeing. Also good advice about settling in. I'll have a go while the spring condoms are on their way - yes, our great supplier (Marshall) had a set available. With my luck, the new rubbers will raise her further... All the more reason to give the springs a good whacking.
I was very careful to align the spring "thread" correctly - doubt if that's it. But a good thought.
I was very careful to align the spring "thread" correctly - doubt if that's it. But a good thought.
I recently read about a method of shortening springs without cutting or increasing rate.
To summarise you partially compress the spring using thick metal disks held together with a length of threaded rod then pop the lot in a hot oven for a while then let it all cool down.
Note for the litigious among you… The amount of stored energy in a spring when compressed like this is lethal so you are advise to act with caution/common sense and above all else be accountable for your own actions
Like cutting it is a one way process but you don’t increase the rate of the spring.
Obviously this will only be good for small changes.
To summarise you partially compress the spring using thick metal disks held together with a length of threaded rod then pop the lot in a hot oven for a while then let it all cool down.
Note for the litigious among you… The amount of stored energy in a spring when compressed like this is lethal so you are advise to act with caution/common sense and above all else be accountable for your own actions
Like cutting it is a one way process but you don’t increase the rate of the spring.
Obviously this will only be good for small changes.
tvrscotty said:
Hmmmm. Sounds tempting. So I just put the compressed spring in with the turkey tomorrow..... Any basting required? 
Thanks.
I think that's optional. Thanks.I've not tried the technique myself so can't vouch for if it works but Fred Puhn wrote it and he seems to know his stuff!
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff