Tasmin Handling
Discussion
I would like to improve the handling on my Taz racer. I believe the car is already well set up with rose jointed suspension and nitrons but I am experiencing quite a lot of body roll in the corners. The dampers are set quite hard. Has anybody fitted anti roll bars to a Taz and would this improve matters? Any other suggestions would be gratefully received 
Sorry, didn't make myself clear. What I meant was fitting an adjustable ARB to the rear and replacing the front ARB with a bigger / stiffer adjustable unit. The dampers are set hard and the wheels have about 4 deg negative camber to compensate for the roll. Not sure about the toe and caster settings.
I evolved what was arguably the fastest racing tasmin chassis for Ceejay (car 27) and that ran with no anti roll bars at all .. one racer of quite some talent told me I'd done it all wrong, then at the end of the season he wanted to buy the suspension of us as he could get nowhere near it's pace! How I laughed 
you need some mods to make the most of the chassis .. ours was the supposedly inferior trailing arm set-up on the rear but cliff put it amongst the Tuscan racers at mallory (probably it's finest hour, 2nd row of grid) and was running strongly before our usual turbo sealing problems manifested themselves yet again and the car dropped of the leading pace, that car could have been a championship contender but for the turbo boost problems (not a problem wth the engine or spec which were always brilliant from boost performance, but more a symptom of trying to get it all into an early tasmin engine bay).
They can be made into a very fast chassis but the first thing you need to do is modify the nitrons (easy to achieve at rebuild time) to get away from the std race chassis damper mounts which are fundamentally flawed, you need to modify the lower front arms which put a massive bending moment on the inner rose joint and lower the leverage ratio of the sprin over the wheel, you then need extra strength in the chassis around the bellhousing area (easy to do), you nee to modify the rear upper damper mount to allow the rear of the car to be lowered and then you need to use something close to the secret squirrel spring rates we ended up with.
You could make it a very fast chassis for 2000 pounds
you need some mods to make the most of the chassis .. ours was the supposedly inferior trailing arm set-up on the rear but cliff put it amongst the Tuscan racers at mallory (probably it's finest hour, 2nd row of grid) and was running strongly before our usual turbo sealing problems manifested themselves yet again and the car dropped of the leading pace, that car could have been a championship contender but for the turbo boost problems (not a problem wth the engine or spec which were always brilliant from boost performance, but more a symptom of trying to get it all into an early tasmin engine bay).
They can be made into a very fast chassis but the first thing you need to do is modify the nitrons (easy to achieve at rebuild time) to get away from the std race chassis damper mounts which are fundamentally flawed, you need to modify the lower front arms which put a massive bending moment on the inner rose joint and lower the leverage ratio of the sprin over the wheel, you then need extra strength in the chassis around the bellhousing area (easy to do), you nee to modify the rear upper damper mount to allow the rear of the car to be lowered and then you need to use something close to the secret squirrel spring rates we ended up with.
You could make it a very fast chassis for 2000 pounds
adam quantrill said:
I think Steve H did try a rear ARB. Dunno if he still runs with it though.
Tried it. It was quicker but and this is a big but... the car was a real animal to control. It was a solution but not the right one. The one thing that has not been mentioned is what springs are you running? If the car is rolling too much then these need to be increased as it is the spring that counteracts roll and not the dampers. Dampers do as the name suggest dampen out the movement so that the spring doesn't oscillate. It is not a replacement for a heavier spring. Yes you can fine tune but I suspect the spring rates are nowhere near what is needed.
As for ARB increases.... I wouldn't bother with a rear one. The front ARB are fine - they are pretty heavy to start with. Or put another way... it is cheaper to change springs than get new ARBs made.
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