Hub Nuts & Bearing Seals
Hub Nuts & Bearing Seals
Author
Discussion

Pilo-Wedgebits

Original Poster:

621 posts

241 months

Friday 29th February 2008
quotequote all
Hi guys,

I'm looking to replace the hub nuts on the 350. My local fastener stockist thinks the nuts are M22 x 1.25 pitch does anyone know if this is the case? Does anyone have experience of the steel locking nut instead of the nyloc - i'm told it is better.

Also to add insult to injury the guy that put the seals back in the hub carriers has put them in back to front me thinks - steel to the outside - rubber in.

I need to get my hands on four of these - does anyone know a source and does anyone know how far they should be inserted wink

Cheers

Shaun

Pilo-Wedgebits

Original Poster:

621 posts

241 months

Monday 3rd March 2008
quotequote all
No ideas guys?

Cheers

Shaun

tempus

674 posts

231 months

Monday 3rd March 2008
quotequote all
Lock washer and nyloc is my preferred option,bearing seal is mk2 granada inner seal times 2 i think and metal is usually on the outer so you dont damage the seal when you tap it in,but my spare set is somewhere safe so i cannot check it for you.Tempus smile

leorest

2,346 posts

269 months

Monday 3rd March 2008
quotequote all
Pilo-Wedgebits said:
...Does anyone have experience of the steel locking nut instead of the nyloc - i'm told it is better...
If you find where to get some metal lock-nuts let me know. This style of lock-nut is used on the inboard end of the driveshaft because the heat from the brakes would melt Nylon. I believe that in aviation applications Ny-lock would be considered as one use and discard whereas an all metal (deformed thread) self locking nut can be re-used many times so long as increased resistance is felt upon re-assembly. Personally I use this philosophy with Ny-locks which means they tend to get discarded after half a dozen uses or less whereas an all metal version would last me a lifetime.

From memory the all metal lock nuts go under trade names like Aero-tight and K-lock not sure of the spelling though.

FWIW For hub nuts (and bearing in mind the repercussions of auto-disassembly/destruction/death) I currently use Nylocks with the addition of a low grade liquid thread-lock applied to just a few scrupulously cleaned threads. I have bitter experience of using too much thread-lock and what a complete bleep of a job it was to undo! I would very much like to upgrade to all metal lock-nuts with the same liquid thread-lock scheme.

leorest

2,346 posts

269 months

Monday 3rd March 2008
quotequote all
Pilo-Wedgebits said:
...and does anyone know how far they should be inserted wink
Tongue firmly bitten wink

chedder

1,329 posts

237 months

Monday 3rd March 2008
quotequote all
David Gerald TVR supplied me with some lock nuts about for the rear hubs 2 years ago, may be worth trying them.
Chedder

Pilo-Wedgebits

Original Poster:

621 posts

241 months

Monday 3rd March 2008
quotequote all
Hi Tempus,

The thing that puzzles me with metal out is that this opens up the spring / spring seat in the seal to the outside world whereas rubber out = complete seal

djc1001

490 posts

276 months

Tuesday 4th March 2008
quotequote all
Pilo-Wedgebits said:
Hi Tempus,

The thing that puzzles me with metal out is that this opens up the spring / spring seat in the seal to the outside world whereas rubber out = complete seal
Note sure re. term 'metal out' but the lip / seal / wire faces in - both sides. Primary use is to keep the grease in but also cr*p out
NOt sure about nut spec. I bought new nylocks from RT. Metal locks tend to be longer there may not be enough thread.

r's
David


tempus

674 posts

231 months

Tuesday 4th March 2008
quotequote all
The lips of the seal should face inwards i.e. towards the bearings,so assemble that way whatever.i will try and find my spare seals and see if they are the same way round as yours.Tempus smilesorry left it on reply and did not read .

Edited by tempus on Tuesday 4th March 10:38

rev-erend

21,623 posts

314 months

Tuesday 4th March 2008
quotequote all
Have you tried any of the wedge suppliers .. TVR Car parts, RT etc..

Also just take the old nut along to an automotive nut specialist .. luckily I found a really good one near me (Guildford).

leorest

2,346 posts

269 months

Tuesday 4th March 2008
quotequote all
rev-erend said:
...Also just take the old nut along to an automotive nut specialist .. luckily I found a really good one near me (Guildford).
ears That's not Margnor is it? How much were they?

Pilo-Wedgebits

Original Poster:

621 posts

241 months

Tuesday 4th March 2008
quotequote all
Unfortunately my nuts have no thread left to talk about as previous owner damaged threads on shafts and nuts.


rev-erend

21,623 posts

314 months

Tuesday 4th March 2008
quotequote all
leorest said:
rev-erend said:
...Also just take the old nut along to an automotive nut specialist .. luckily I found a really good one near me (Guildford).
ears That's not Margnor is it? How much were they?
It is Margnor..

I've not taken a hub nut to them yet but have never failed me for any other odd nuts and bolts I take down there..