Handbrake Question
Discussion
Thanx to some input from you guys I'm getting to grips with understanding how the handbrake works my last question being - does the sleeve of the cable lock/connect is forced against the first caliper with the cable running out to the 2nd caliper which is connected via a nut on the threaded section of the cable?
Someone out there must know.....lol
Someone out there must know.....lol
Yes it's just held there under tension. The adjustment on the cable is rarely used, instead it should selt-adjust.
(Waits for laughter to die down)
At least that's the theory, but in practice the ratchets that do this corroded solid on all wedges 2 years after they were sold. So the best way is to use those big screws held in place by split pins, at the top of each caliper.
(Waits for laughter to die down)
At least that's the theory, but in practice the ratchets that do this corroded solid on all wedges 2 years after they were sold. So the best way is to use those big screws held in place by split pins, at the top of each caliper.
adam quantrill said:
Yes it's just held there under tension. The adjustment on the cable is rarely used, instead it should selt-adjust.
(Waits for laughter to die down)
At least that's the theory, but in practice the ratchets that do this corroded solid on all wedges 2 years after they were sold. So the best way is to use those big screws held in place by split pins, at the top of each caliper.
I got mine to work "properly" by unscrewing the auto adjusters a few turns then applying the h/brake repeatedly until the ratchet auto adjusted up. Then repeat loosening off and exercising the auto adjust mechanism. An occasional douche with WD during the workout will help too. Obviously a complete strip down and clean would be better but I got an MOT passing functional handbrake after about half an hour of fiddling and it still will hold the car on a 1 in 3, though I wouldn't take my eyes off it unless it was in gear with a brick under one of the back wheels!(Waits for laughter to die down)
At least that's the theory, but in practice the ratchets that do this corroded solid on all wedges 2 years after they were sold. So the best way is to use those big screws held in place by split pins, at the top of each caliper.
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
would have only taken 10 Min's if you adjusted from the screws in handbrake calipers.
Obviously I didn't explain it very well as that is exactly what I did. Most of the time was spent working around the complications involved with working in a narrow garage with too much other stuff in.Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


