Brake & Suspension Update

[GV]

Well guys after taking your advice I have now sorted the handbrake. I used a spacer betweem the cable adjuster and the caliper to take up the cable slack and adjusted the pads accordingly. The spacer was used before I refurbed the old calipers. I have now have 3 clicks on the handbrake and the car hasn't yet rolled off the drive! When changing the calipers/disks I recomend dropping the diff replacing all the A Frame bolts in the process.

The bleeding issue seems to have worked out. Got an assist to pump the brake pedal and I bled each nipple starting from the rear and ending up by the caliper nearest the cylinder. I also wedged my jacking handle against the brake pedal overnight and guess what - the pedal is much much firmer. In the end I settled for Green Stuff pads all round. I think the Ezee bleed kit is a waste of money when using Princess 4 Pots.

So...after rebuilding the front and rear suspension fitting SH's drop links and tie bar in the process, widening the calipers to accomodate the vented disks - the car now moves and stops though it hasn't been driven in anger only up and down road - it will all be checked out and aligned before its MOT which happens in July after I have resprayed the car......When is it going to end......???

[MJG280]

When is it going to end......???


The day you sell it (as long as you don't weaken and buy another one 6 months later)

[combine]

Try and drive it more often , more fun than emptying your wallet .

[Dave Meredith]

Sounds like good news GV!

I am resting up between brake bleeds.
I intend to bleed them with a pumping action on the pedal ie nipple open - pedal down, close nipple -pedal up. Should stop any air getting in while the master cylinder fills with fluid

Is this the method that worked for you? If so I'd better give it a try!

[350zwelgje]

Dave Meredith said:

Sounds like good news GV!

I am resting up between brake bleeds.
I intend to bleed them with a pumping action on the pedal ie nipple open - pedal down, close nipple -pedal up. Should stop any air getting in while the master cylinder fills with fluid

Is this the method that worked for you? If so I'd better give it a try!

Before I start I pump the pedal several times (at least 10 times)
Between nipple openings....., pump the pedal several times (I use 5) and then open nipple again.

Rob

[GV]

Dave Meredith said:

Sounds like good news GV!

I am resting up between brake bleeds.
I intend to bleed them with a pumping action on the pedal ie nipple open - pedal down, close nipple -pedal up. Should stop any air getting in while the master cylinder fills with fluid

Is this the method that worked for you? If so I'd better give it a try!

Hi Dave - the pumping method definitely improved the feel along with wedging the brake pedal overnight. I don't know about you but I have new pads all round which have to be bedded in which means the pedal should firm up still more. Having said that, my Merc has got spongy brakes that seem to grab after a long stab at the pedal. We'll see. I live in North London so if you need a hand give me a shout.

[Comadis]

last time i bled my brakes like that, resulted in a damaged master-cylinder a few days later.

why? during normal operation the master-cylinder piston will never reach such "deep" areas of the cylinder. depending how regulary the brake-fluid was changed (and therefore couldnt accumulate water) the master cylinder gets rusty on non-used areas- beeding the brakes like that and the piston moves into the rusty areas. the un-even surface of the rusty areas will eventually damage your seals.

i always bleed my cars by using a special vaccum-bleeding device. you often get them very cheap at motor-bike parts-supliers.

[jeff m]

Comadis said:

last time i bled my brakes like that, resulted in a damaged master-cylinder a few days later.

why? during normal operation the master-cylinder piston will never reach such "deep" areas of the cylinder. depending how regulary the brake-fluid was changed (and therefore couldnt accumulate water) the master cylinder gets rusty on non-used areas- beeding the brakes like that and the piston moves into the rusty areas. the un-even surface of the rusty areas will eventually damage your seals.

i always bleed my cars by using a special vaccum-bleeding device. you often get them very cheap at motor-bike parts-supliers.

Yep agree regarding pushing all the way on the pedal on an older car, I still prefer open and closed or easy bleed too just pumping though. I just restrict the pedal travel.
Incidently Mercedes do require vacuum bleeding, well the newer ones at least.