Discussion
I'm having a stab at hammeriting some of the chassis and have got stuck in with a wire brush attachment for my electric drill.
Question is, do you need to take everything back to gleaming baremetal for the paint to be effective, or is it ok to remove just remove all loose rust? Was planning to use jenolite as well.
Any guidance on this appreciated.
P.s. Just bought some 3 ton ratchet axle stands from Machine Mart (15 quid) - can definitely recommend as the height increments are much smaller than the usual pin variety.
Question is, do you need to take everything back to gleaming baremetal for the paint to be effective, or is it ok to remove just remove all loose rust? Was planning to use jenolite as well.
Any guidance on this appreciated.
P.s. Just bought some 3 ton ratchet axle stands from Machine Mart (15 quid) - can definitely recommend as the height increments are much smaller than the usual pin variety.
If you go down the Jenolite route, you'll be there for days if you wait for it to dry out PROPERLY.
The best abrasives I've ever used are the 3M 'clean & strip' things that look like a stiff disc of nylon pan-scrubber on a drill stem. About 6 quid from B&Q.
Let the material strip the paint and rust, you don't need to use excess force. Just avoid catching the disc on edges and it'll last for ages. It will take the rustiest metal back to shiny, and that is not an exaggeration. Just don't catch your skin on it!
Unlike a wire brush, as it wears you just get a coating of dust, no bristles in the eye etc. (People don't seem to realise that wire brushes are meant to 'cut' on the end of the bristles, so they apply loads of force, distort the brush and it disintegrates and becomes even less effective).
If you can get back to shiny, don't use the Jenolite (it's not recommended). I usually wipe the steel with, say, isopropyl alcohol as a degreaser, then paint with Smoothrite. Leave for a couple of hours then give it another coat. Don't panic about the drips. Anyone who wants to get that picky is probably not best suited to owning a TVR. Finally, a coat of underseal around the sill areas is a good plan, once the Smoothrite has fully cured (supposedly 6 weeks).
Ian
The best abrasives I've ever used are the 3M 'clean & strip' things that look like a stiff disc of nylon pan-scrubber on a drill stem. About 6 quid from B&Q.
Let the material strip the paint and rust, you don't need to use excess force. Just avoid catching the disc on edges and it'll last for ages. It will take the rustiest metal back to shiny, and that is not an exaggeration. Just don't catch your skin on it!
Unlike a wire brush, as it wears you just get a coating of dust, no bristles in the eye etc. (People don't seem to realise that wire brushes are meant to 'cut' on the end of the bristles, so they apply loads of force, distort the brush and it disintegrates and becomes even less effective).
If you can get back to shiny, don't use the Jenolite (it's not recommended). I usually wipe the steel with, say, isopropyl alcohol as a degreaser, then paint with Smoothrite. Leave for a couple of hours then give it another coat. Don't panic about the drips. Anyone who wants to get that picky is probably not best suited to owning a TVR. Finally, a coat of underseal around the sill areas is a good plan, once the Smoothrite has fully cured (supposedly 6 weeks).
Ian
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