Discussion
I have over the last week taken the whole dash apart to flush out the heater matrix and ensure I can correctly bleed the cooling system and relace the perished hoses from the inlet manifold to the matrix, last night got all bit back together and bleed the system by running the car with caps off etc at idle, that all went fine, system now works perfectly with the fan kicking in and out as required.
This morning I topped the system up having let it cool down and jumped in for a drive, left the car running on the drive for a while before setting off and it was warmed up.
After about 5 mins of driving came to a junction and the car wouldnt idle and just stopped same happened at the next junction so headed home got to the drive and it was fine. Then the fan kicked in and the car stopped again.
ANy ideas what I should check first?
This morning I topped the system up having let it cool down and jumped in for a drive, left the car running on the drive for a while before setting off and it was warmed up.
After about 5 mins of driving came to a junction and the car wouldnt idle and just stopped same happened at the next junction so headed home got to the drive and it was fine. Then the fan kicked in and the car stopped again.
ANy ideas what I should check first?
You may have disturbed a connection somewhere. The car's idle can be adjusted with an adjustment screw situated on top of the plenum. Normal practice is to start the car screw in the adjuster until the car is about to die then out again until the rev counter is hovering at about 1000 rpm. The engine needs to be warmed up though. Get someone to start the car and to put some pressure on the throttle until you can adjust the idle from the plenum. When cold it might run above 1000 rpm until it warms up - a blip on the gas normally drops the revs after a couple of minutes.
Your fans are drawing current from the electronics so I would make sure all your earth connections are cleaned up and well connected, the fan belt too should be checked and adjusted in case it's a bit slack. Both problems should be unrelated but with a TVR is not always clear cut - hope you get it sussed soon.
Your fans are drawing current from the electronics so I would make sure all your earth connections are cleaned up and well connected, the fan belt too should be checked and adjusted in case it's a bit slack. Both problems should be unrelated but with a TVR is not always clear cut - hope you get it sussed soon.
The run was fun while it lasted - can sit behind listening to the sound of your beastie all day mate! Noisiest 350 I have ever heard!
Did you tape up those couple of wires from your Kenlow stat to stop them resting on the hot pipe?
Still think a blat to Chi and back would have "cleared" the system up a bit
The yankee muscle and chrome at the beach was pretty impressive BTW
See ya soon
Paul
Did you tape up those couple of wires from your Kenlow stat to stop them resting on the hot pipe?
Still think a blat to Chi and back would have "cleared" the system up a bit
The yankee muscle and chrome at the beach was pretty impressive BTW
See ya soon
Paul
Thanks Leo, Just about to go out to the garage and start checking a few things, I suspect that the ECU is not working out that the car has stopped ie the speed signal circuit has got a loose connection, this bit appears to be missing in the wiring diagram in the bible! Cant work out how the ECU works this out, On the Hot Wire versions I understand it works off the speedo but I have a flapper and the speedo is cable driven, so wondering if its driven of the rev counter someway!
Going to start by checking ECU connector is plugged in okay!
The last thing I touched well that is just about all the wiring in the dashboard!
Going to start by checking ECU connector is plugged in okay!
The last thing I touched well that is just about all the wiring in the dashboard!
I have an idle problem too - I seem to be too idle to do all the jobs I should be doing on the wedge!
But seriously, it might just be the extra load on the electrics when the fan kicks in. A fan warning light can help diagnose this - it's easy to install one behind one of the unused dash warning lights.
There is a positive feedback mechanism, the extra load slows the engine, and the alternator gets less efficient, loading the engine more, until it stalls. PAS doesn't help either, at a junction.
Make sure the battery connections are good, and the idle is at 850-900 rpm at least.
But seriously, it might just be the extra load on the electrics when the fan kicks in. A fan warning light can help diagnose this - it's easy to install one behind one of the unused dash warning lights.
There is a positive feedback mechanism, the extra load slows the engine, and the alternator gets less efficient, loading the engine more, until it stalls. PAS doesn't help either, at a junction.
Make sure the battery connections are good, and the idle is at 850-900 rpm at least.
Idle Problem --- Done!
Must have been a lose connection and the old girl is running nicely says he touching as much wood as possible!
Never got out of 3rd for most of the test run, if I get stuck behind another J reg Immaculate Honda I am going to kill somebody, the blast up the slip road to the motorway made up for it!
Must have been a lose connection and the old girl is running nicely says he touching as much wood as possible!
Never got out of 3rd for most of the test run, if I get stuck behind another J reg Immaculate Honda I am going to kill somebody, the blast up the slip road to the motorway made up for it!
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