Exhaust bits and more
Discussion
Hi All! I need a couple of bits to keep the car up to parr;-
new universal joints for the hub end of the driveshaft. I'm trying to get heavy duty ones with grease nipples, offside wheel was shaking me all the way back from Le Mans!
The exhaust outlet parts numbered 16 and 17 in the picture below.
Any suggestions where I should try?
new universal joints for the hub end of the driveshaft. I'm trying to get heavy duty ones with grease nipples, offside wheel was shaking me all the way back from Le Mans!
The exhaust outlet parts numbered 16 and 17 in the picture below.
Any suggestions where I should try?
If your going to change the UJ would be best to do all 4.
The Heavy duty race ones don't have grase nipples, they have a compression fit seal so the high grade seal friendy grease can't get out.
If you do a search you should be able to find the guys details, but they are about £30 IIRC, so going to be over £100 for 4.
how bad are the exhaust parts, could they be repaired.
If you want to post or drop them to me I could patch them up for some beer tokens.
The Heavy duty race ones don't have grase nipples, they have a compression fit seal so the high grade seal friendy grease can't get out.
If you do a search you should be able to find the guys details, but they are about £30 IIRC, so going to be over £100 for 4.
how bad are the exhaust parts, could they be repaired.
If you want to post or drop them to me I could patch them up for some beer tokens.
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
If your going to change the UJ would be best to do all 4.
The Heavy duty race ones don't have grase nipples, they have a compression fit seal so the high grade seal friendy grease can't get out.
If you do a search you should be able to find the guys details, but they are about £30 IIRC, so going to be over £100 for 4.
how bad are the exhaust parts, could they be repaired.
If you want to post or drop them to me I could patch them up for some beer tokens.
Thanks for that!The Heavy duty race ones don't have grase nipples, they have a compression fit seal so the high grade seal friendy grease can't get out.
If you do a search you should be able to find the guys details, but they are about £30 IIRC, so going to be over £100 for 4.
how bad are the exhaust parts, could they be repaired.
If you want to post or drop them to me I could patch them up for some beer tokens.
The exhaust bits aren't worn, I have a single pipe at the moment and wanted to fit the double outlet so that it looks right.
OK. Coming back from Le Mans I found that the o/s real wheel had a wobble, which was visible in a slow drive-by (about1/2inch) Suspecting worn U/J's I jacked the back of the car up and got my glamourous assistant to rock the wheel. The only movement is at the top of the wheel (12 o'clock), it pushes in and then drops back to it's normal position. pushing at 3,6 or 9 o'clock does not have any effect.
Getting underneath, with the car jacked up under the suspension, the only place I saw any sigificant movement was at the front 'A' frame mounting, the the U/J's had a tiny amount of movement, which I believe is usual?
As I said, the only movement was at the top of the wheel so this would say that the wear is at the top/bottom of the bush that the 'A' frame bolt goes through.
What is confusing me is that if this bush has worn I would expect the wheel to just rest at the wrong angle and not "wobble" as I drove!
The only other observation I have is that the nearside and offside wheels are slightly different distances from the body, but this could just be due to ground level or suspension not recovering after I lifted my buik out of the car.
NB, if it makes any difference the U/J's are the type with grease nipples!
Any thoughts from Wedgeland?
ETA I've sourced the exhaust trims (£116
)
Getting underneath, with the car jacked up under the suspension, the only place I saw any sigificant movement was at the front 'A' frame mounting, the the U/J's had a tiny amount of movement, which I believe is usual?
As I said, the only movement was at the top of the wheel so this would say that the wear is at the top/bottom of the bush that the 'A' frame bolt goes through.
What is confusing me is that if this bush has worn I would expect the wheel to just rest at the wrong angle and not "wobble" as I drove!
The only other observation I have is that the nearside and offside wheels are slightly different distances from the body, but this could just be due to ground level or suspension not recovering after I lifted my buik out of the car.
NB, if it makes any difference the U/J's are the type with grease nipples!
Any thoughts from Wedgeland?
ETA I've sourced the exhaust trims (£116
)Edited by Poledriver on Tuesday 24th June 18:23
red tasmin said:
I,ve had this problem occur before and can happen if the wheel is curbed, they can usually be straightend by a specialist alloy refurb conpany.
As you can see, there are no dents or scratches on the wheel, I don't get that close to the curb, but there are an amazing amount of lead weights stuck around the inside of the wheel!!I'll give some of the wheel refurb companies a call.
thanks for the input!
Latest update on the wheel from Compomotive. The inner rim had been replaced but the centre was also bent. This has worsened with driving and has further buckled both the inner and outer rims. So...... new wheel needed... £300!!
So, either going to have to give up BBWF or LeMans Classic!
So, either going to have to give up BBWF or LeMans Classic!
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