Engine run in?
Discussion
The engine in my SEAC was re-built using all new original parts from TVR power a year or so ago.
It's done abot 300 miles since this re-build, i trying to get the miles on the car but the weathers not helping.
I read a description from a previous thread re: running in pistons/cam etc..
The oil is spotless in my engine, and i know it's Valvoline in it, but i don't know if it's ordinary multigrade (as recommended for run ins)or it's a semi synthestic or fully? i'm going to try and find out for sure.
Actually it might/should be in the paper work/history file, but i'm not at home to check.
If it's a semi or fully synth oil..would it cause a problem or prevent the engine being run-in properly?
cheers
I have booked the car in to TVR Barnet next week to check a few things
over.
You finished your engine yet Alan, what regime you following re: run-in?
It's done abot 300 miles since this re-build, i trying to get the miles on the car but the weathers not helping.
I read a description from a previous thread re: running in pistons/cam etc..
The oil is spotless in my engine, and i know it's Valvoline in it, but i don't know if it's ordinary multigrade (as recommended for run ins)or it's a semi synthestic or fully? i'm going to try and find out for sure.
Actually it might/should be in the paper work/history file, but i'm not at home to check.
If it's a semi or fully synth oil..would it cause a problem or prevent the engine being run-in properly?
cheers
I have booked the car in to TVR Barnet next week to check a few things
over.
You finished your engine yet Alan, what regime you following re: run-in?
If you have new rings and it has semi or fully synth oil, then the rings will not bed correctly.
The cam should have been run in before the car was even driven. 20 mins at 2000 RPM.
Ideally you should use a running in oil. for the 1st run in period.
The V-8 forum may be able to help more.
The cam should have been run in before the car was even driven. 20 mins at 2000 RPM.
Ideally you should use a running in oil. for the 1st run in period.
The V-8 forum may be able to help more.
Wayne - no engine not installed yet ..
Think I should pull my finger out and get on with it ..
Re - running in ..
If it's done 300 miles then quite frankly - it's too late.
It's 90 % run in already.
Best advise on running in oil is a good quality multigrade oil and not fully synthetic (so no zero grade oils) ..
The valvoline 20/50 will be fine - if it's clear on the dip stick - I would guess it's already been changed - change it (oil and filter) again at 1000 miles
for some more valvoline and if you want to run synthetic - somethink like Silkoline 15/50 would be idea at say 2 K miles after that ..
Have a read here :
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
and here :
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
You will notice on both that neither recommend a nice gentle approach .. whilst neither is saying keep it nailed .. both agree that giving an engine load on a limited time and the letting it off the boil then load it again .. sees to get the job done the best
Think I should pull my finger out and get on with it ..
Re - running in ..
If it's done 300 miles then quite frankly - it's too late.
It's 90 % run in already.
Best advise on running in oil is a good quality multigrade oil and not fully synthetic (so no zero grade oils) ..
The valvoline 20/50 will be fine - if it's clear on the dip stick - I would guess it's already been changed - change it (oil and filter) again at 1000 miles
for some more valvoline and if you want to run synthetic - somethink like Silkoline 15/50 would be idea at say 2 K miles after that ..
Have a read here :
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
and here :
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
You will notice on both that neither recommend a nice gentle approach .. whilst neither is saying keep it nailed .. both agree that giving an engine load on a limited time and the letting it off the boil then load it again .. sees to get the job done the best
Sorry, just checked all the garage receipts and it's done just over 700 miles since the re-build. Then the 20/50 was put in (700 miles after re-build).
I always understood 1000 miles was the 'break in' period?
Also, i'm not sure 20/50 is the best grade, looking through the Opie thread he mentions quite often that it isn't the best for cold starts.. To thick apparently?
It's going into Barnet next week, i'll ask them, see what they say.
Got to admit - all the different oil grades gets confusing
I always understood 1000 miles was the 'break in' period?
Also, i'm not sure 20/50 is the best grade, looking through the Opie thread he mentions quite often that it isn't the best for cold starts.. To thick apparently?
It's going into Barnet next week, i'll ask them, see what they say.
Got to admit - all the different oil grades gets confusing
I heard a lot of people say you should run the rings in hard, straight away else you can glaze the bores.
only problem I see if new cams should be run in for 20 mins at 2000 rpm. this will also glaze the bores as there is no load.
Should you run the camshaft in, with a already run in engine, seems a bit difficult to do both.
only problem I see if new cams should be run in for 20 mins at 2000 rpm. this will also glaze the bores as there is no load.
Should you run the camshaft in, with a already run in engine, seems a bit difficult to do both.
Most eveidence points to fairly hard use to run the rings into the bores.
The bores have the criss cross honing pattern and once this has gone it's to late to run the rings in for a perfect seal.
As you say if you have to run the cams in at no more than 2000rpm, it does seem to be contradicting itself?
I've checked with the previous guy re: my SEAC and the car has been run in straight from the start with Shell Ultra mineral, and used hard(ish) to bed the rings in. Some say that after 500 miles or so you can change the oil/filter and almost use as normal.
Problem with all this is there are always conflicting ideas as to what is best.
The oil in my car is 20/50 Valvoline...i think fully synthetic, but i'm going to change this to 10 or 15/50. Just for the easier cold starts.
As Rev says, i'm sure this oil is ok as i only use the car in the summer months, but it's playing on my mind...so might as well change it.
Think after the oil change and other bits that TVR Barnet are doing next week a session on the rollers would be advisable.
It's pretty lumpy and jerky when cold at low revs. Or is this a SEAC trait?
The bores have the criss cross honing pattern and once this has gone it's to late to run the rings in for a perfect seal.
As you say if you have to run the cams in at no more than 2000rpm, it does seem to be contradicting itself?
I've checked with the previous guy re: my SEAC and the car has been run in straight from the start with Shell Ultra mineral, and used hard(ish) to bed the rings in. Some say that after 500 miles or so you can change the oil/filter and almost use as normal.
Problem with all this is there are always conflicting ideas as to what is best.
The oil in my car is 20/50 Valvoline...i think fully synthetic, but i'm going to change this to 10 or 15/50. Just for the easier cold starts.
As Rev says, i'm sure this oil is ok as i only use the car in the summer months, but it's playing on my mind...so might as well change it.
Think after the oil change and other bits that TVR Barnet are doing next week a session on the rollers would be advisable.
It's pretty lumpy and jerky when cold at low revs. Or is this a SEAC trait?
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
I heard a lot of people say you should run the rings in hard, straight away else you can glaze the bores.
only problem I see if new cams should be run in for 20 mins at 2000 rpm. this will also glaze the bores as there is no load.
Should you run the camshaft in, with a already run in engine, seems a bit difficult to do both.
Totally agree .. a dilema I will face very soon..only problem I see if new cams should be run in for 20 mins at 2000 rpm. this will also glaze the bores as there is no load.
Should you run the camshaft in, with a already run in engine, seems a bit difficult to do both.
Had thought of running the old cam and followers but even if they do fit the new engine .. I can't be that bothered.
I suppose it's only 40,000 revolutions.. (2000 rpm for 20 mins) ..
Waynester said:
Most eveidence points to fairly hard use to run the rings into the bores.
The bores have the criss cross honing pattern and once this has gone it's to late to run the rings in for a perfect seal.
As you say if you have to run the cams in at no more than 2000rpm, it does seem to be contradicting itself?
I've checked with the previous guy re: my SEAC and the car has been run in straight from the start with Shell Ultra mineral, and used hard(ish) to bed the rings in. Some say that after 500 miles or so you can change the oil/filter and almost use as normal.
Problem with all this is there are always conflicting ideas as to what is best.
The oil in my car is 20/50 Valvoline...i think fully synthetic, but i'm going to change this to 10 or 15/50. Just for the easier cold starts.
As Rev says, i'm sure this oil is ok as i only use the car in the summer months, but it's playing on my mind...so might as well change it.
Think after the oil change and other bits that TVR Barnet are doing next week a session on the rollers would be advisable.
It's pretty lumpy and jerky when cold at low revs. Or is this a SEAC trait?
Agree with all the above.. The bores have the criss cross honing pattern and once this has gone it's to late to run the rings in for a perfect seal.
As you say if you have to run the cams in at no more than 2000rpm, it does seem to be contradicting itself?
I've checked with the previous guy re: my SEAC and the car has been run in straight from the start with Shell Ultra mineral, and used hard(ish) to bed the rings in. Some say that after 500 miles or so you can change the oil/filter and almost use as normal.
Problem with all this is there are always conflicting ideas as to what is best.
The oil in my car is 20/50 Valvoline...i think fully synthetic, but i'm going to change this to 10 or 15/50. Just for the easier cold starts.
As Rev says, i'm sure this oil is ok as i only use the car in the summer months, but it's playing on my mind...so might as well change it.
Think after the oil change and other bits that TVR Barnet are doing next week a session on the rollers would be advisable.
It's pretty lumpy and jerky when cold at low revs. Or is this a SEAC trait?
You need to find out if the SEAC has solid lifters or not .. these engines had a much wilder cam and can be a little jerky but if you want to stick with the original Lucas ECU - Mark Adams can help to smooth it out - he did with mine .. you also need to check whether it's a hot wire and 14 CUX or flapper and 14 CU ecu.
The later system is more tailorable .. or so I believe
but does not pop and bang as much
I think there are basis adjustable flapper ECU's that come up for sale occasionally ..
or the fuel pressure can be played with..
But you are pretty much stuck with the std settings.
Think you have to find and talk with MArk Adams .. not sure where he is working at present.
or the fuel pressure can be played with..
But you are pretty much stuck with the std settings.
Think you have to find and talk with MArk Adams .. not sure where he is working at present.
Edited by rev-erend on Thursday 14th August 15:06
Bit late now but checking my build info. Virtually a new motor and service at 500, 1000, 3000. That was oil change and filter. Not sure what the initial 500 was on (special running in stuff??) but Valvoline 20/50 mineral on the rest. Revs kept low even when warm. Oil done every 3000 now.
Waynester said:
So your engine was on mineral still Jeff up to 3000 miles?
Still is some 20,000 odd miles later. But that was recommended by the guy that built my engine. I had quite a comprehensive sheet on how to run it in and what oil and what not to do etc. But it was bespoke so I go with what is recommended for me in my circumstance. I could add to contact the builder to check but unfortunately events have over taken us yesterday.
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