Clutch for 280

[Charlie280]

Need to change the cutch on my 280. Any suggestions on the best/cheapest way to do it??

[jeff m]

Never done it....but from previous posts and speaking to others I would say if your exhast is welded and in good condition then Engine and Gearbox out thro the big hole.

But if I was going to do mine I'd certainly try the gearbox off method first and see how it went. (As you need to do the underneath stuff anyway)

It's possible your car may have some "extra brackets" welded on the frame.
Which sort of takes away the decision making (Prepped for hill climb)

[grahamw48]

It was engine/box out when I had mine (280) changed. Cost about £450.

Some people have cut the chassis and then re-welded up...but not a good idea I would suspect.
It may be possible to move the engine forward enough once the rad is out.

VERY tight for space in that chassis.

[taz turbo]

Method depends on four speed or five, but both can be done (just) from underneath without removing the engine.

Is it a four or five speed?

Regards,

Chris.

[Charlie280]

It's a 4 speed. Although I'm not put off by taking the engine out (any pit falls in doing that?)it's the cost v time question. £450 doesn't seem too bad compared to the grief I'd get from the wife for being stuck in the garage all weekend!

[grahamw48]

Charlie280 said:

It's a 4 speed. Although I'm not put off by taking the engine out (any pit falls in doing that?)it's the cost v time question. £450 doesn't seem too bad compared to the grief I'd get from the wife for being stuck in the garage all weekend!

Just be very careful who you get to do it for you.
You don't want some chimp damaging the interior trim and other expensive to replace parts in their impatience to get the job done in minimum time.
I speak from experience.

[taz turbo]

Four speed clutch replacement...

Remove gearstick (it unscrews, you will need a chain wrench or similar).
Remove the prop.
Remove speedometer cable.
Remove the clutch cable.
Remove the starter motor.
Remove the four bolts (1/2") that fix the box to the bellhousing.
Remove the bellhousing bolts.

You can now access the clutch for replacement, align and reverse of the above.

Obviously precautions as the box is heavy and the engine will require chocking up.

Working on axle stands it takes me about three hours, a little longer for a five speed.

Any questions just ask.

Regards,

Chris.

[Grady]

Resurrecting this thread with a question to all and to Taz:

My clutch has been going out (slipping at revs, juddering in reverse) in the 86 280i but was still drivable enough to go around the block on weekends to keep things moving. Yesterday it died a couple of bocks away - the clutch had been holding up well - cranked but wouldn't start. Towed it home and saw two leaks/splits in the air intake hose. Temporarily, I sealed the cracks and the car started right up. But absolutely zero clutch engagement, noise, etc. in any gear; just like it's total gone.

First - any ideas other than a dead clutch? (I can't see why towing it 2 blocks in neutral would kill the clutch???)

Taz - I found your instructions above. Hoping for more details.
1) How high do you try to jack the car?
2) Does the gear box just move back to make space (if so how far)or does it actually come out? (I haven't looked today but I remember the frame getting pretty tight back there.)
3) Same for the bell housing.
4) Do you drop the exhaust?
5) Any other tricks or tips?

I've changed one clutch years ago (MGB) but I already had the engine out so it was straightforward.

I'd really like to do it myself it is a simple as you suggest; must be easier than pull the engine and I don't have a helper. Plus finding a shop that would even touch it is difficult; more so now that it's not drivable at all.

Thanks for any suggestions. Grady

[mrzigazaga]

Hi Mate...When i had my clutch replaced the exhaust was not in the way as i have two single pipes running from front to back so it depends on your layout as regards to exhaust's..I know my gearbox was un-bolted,Dropped down and moved back a tad to get to the clutch similar to how it would be done on a capri..Mine is a 1982 so it might be different with yours but i shouldnt think you need to take the engine out??..Cheers...Ziga

[taz turbo]

Grady said:

Resurrecting this thread with a question to all and to Taz:

My clutch has been going out (slipping at revs, juddering in reverse) in the 86 280i but was still drivable enough to go around the block on weekends to keep things moving. Yesterday it died a couple of bocks away - the clutch had been holding up well - cranked but wouldn't start. Towed it home and saw two leaks/splits in the air intake hose. Temporarily, I sealed the cracks and the car started right up. But absolutely zero clutch engagement, noise, etc. in any gear; just like it's total gone.

First - any ideas other than a dead clutch? (I can't see why towing it 2 blocks in neutral would kill the clutch???)

Taz - I found your instructions above. Hoping for more details.
1) How high do you try to jack the car?
2) Does the gear box just move back to make space (if so how far)or does it actually come out? (I haven't looked today but I remember the frame getting pretty tight back there.)
3) Same for the bell housing.
4) Do you drop the exhaust?
5) Any other tricks or tips?

I've changed one clutch years ago (MGB) but I already had the engine out so it was straightforward.

I'd really like to do it myself it is a simple as you suggest; must be easier than pull the engine and I don't have a helper. Plus finding a shop that would even touch it is difficult; more so now that it's not drivable at all.

Thanks for any suggestions. Grady

YHM.

Chris.