Fans & cooling
Discussion
I only have the single fan set up on my SEAC, it could really do with better. I might as well fit a midget* to blow on it. 
What to go for..Kenlowe? Anything better?
Car's going into TVR Barnet tomorrow, just want an idea of the preferred/best set ups
What to go for..Kenlowe? Anything better?
Car's going into TVR Barnet tomorrow, just want an idea of the preferred/best set ups
- No offence intended to all small people..
Edited by Waynester on Monday 25th August 13:42
Having some right fun and games but learning a lot. I have two. Butted up to the rad (no cowl) but I am thinking that is not the best. However, there are hoooooooooooooooge gaps around the rad. So filling in them in by various means and will be changing the fans as they drag a lot of power for apparently delivering not a lot so heavy traffic is my bug bear. I think the fans may be sucking warm air from the bay when at stand still hence the all out assault on the gaps to stop it getting in front of the rad (warm air that is). Now, when I measured my wind speed per fan I was getting 30mph (I Think??) at the outside edge of the blades whilst nothing worth mentioning at the motor.
So, if I may add, I would like to know if the spiral bladed kenlowes work more across the blade than straight ones?
I should add that after my recent bump, the rad was put back in with no foam that was there before. It was all back at the road side after all but tackling that had me tackling the big gaps already there..
Bit disjointed reply, sorry.
So, if I may add, I would like to know if the spiral bladed kenlowes work more across the blade than straight ones?
I should add that after my recent bump, the rad was put back in with no foam that was there before. It was all back at the road side after all but tackling that had me tackling the big gaps already there..
Bit disjointed reply, sorry.
My 450 seems to have plastic flaps that cover the gaps beside the rad and oil cooler. I guess to deal with the hot air issue you described?
Just surprised to find just a single fan set up. Did they just bolt up what they had laying around at the time?
I'm going to look at maybe a re-core and maybe change the thermostat so that it opens earlier.
Just have to see what Barnet reckon.
Just surprised to find just a single fan set up. Did they just bolt up what they had laying around at the time?
I'm going to look at maybe a re-core and maybe change the thermostat so that it opens earlier.
Just have to see what Barnet reckon.
My 450 has 1 fan in the centre with the 2 rubber flaps either side. Seems to cope reasonably well unless in very heavy taffic.
Would fit an over ride swithch on it so you can switch on when you know you are in traffic.
There have been various modes such as fan either side of rad to push and pull air through, too twin kenlows on the front, recoring the rad to 4 core, or even fitting an ali rad in. All depends on how much you wanna spend
Would fit an over ride swithch on it so you can switch on when you know you are in traffic.
There have been various modes such as fan either side of rad to push and pull air through, too twin kenlows on the front, recoring the rad to 4 core, or even fitting an ali rad in. All depends on how much you wanna spend
Not going to suggest anything for peoples flaps. But when the rad is just hanging in mid air I thought air will go around rather than through. So just boxing in the gaps to give air no where else to go. It has improved things for normal driving compared to big gaps. Things I have found are the simple things are the easiest. Over ride switch certainly and easy to do.
What are the symptoms? Just so someone might have a better idea. No air locks that you are aware of?
What are the symptoms? Just so someone might have a better idea. No air locks that you are aware of?
Waynester said:
My 450 seems to have plastic flaps that cover the gaps beside the rad and oil cooler. I guess to deal with the hot air issue you described?
Just surprised to find just a single fan set up. Did they just bolt up what they had laying around at the time?
I'm going to look at maybe a re-core and maybe change the thermostat so that it opens earlier.
Just have to see what Barnet reckon.
My rad fan must be the same as yours , with flaps each side , it works well though and an overide switch has been fitted to the right of steering wheel although I've not needed it , so will keep the fan till the bearings start getting a bit rough !Just surprised to find just a single fan set up. Did they just bolt up what they had laying around at the time?
I'm going to look at maybe a re-core and maybe change the thermostat so that it opens earlier.
Just have to see what Barnet reckon.
My old set up was the single fan and cowl. The bearings went which prompts this from the reminder from above. It was hard to tell just by turning the blades by hand. If you can get your ear close to the spindle os as close as poss and listen whilst turning the fan. Mine sounded like rubbing sand paper together. Also, with the fan blades off, you could not turn the spindle by hand.
Wayne I stripped my 450 down last autumn, to be on the safe side too, I have a Radtec Aluminium rad fitted (widest that will fit) I looked at all options but bigger core proved to be undoable as fitting space is very limited.
I have the rear cowling (like Stainless said) which has rubber flaps to allow maximum air flow through rad when car is moving but when the fan cuts it it sucks these flaps to effectively close the cowling off from the hot air in the engine bay this allows the fan to acheive maximum airflow through the rad when it cuts in.
I also fitted a high speed 11 bladed fan (Profan PF211), its only 12" diameter but it shifts more volume of air than 2 x 10" fans and I have no overheat issues whatsoever - manual overide is a given, for peace of mind, and to help with heat soak when slowing or meeting traffic.
Its not the number of fans that matter its the volume of air the fan shifts and very important to acheive maximum cold air drawn through the rad hence the need to prevent air leaks around the back of the rad.
Hope thats of some help.
I have the rear cowling (like Stainless said) which has rubber flaps to allow maximum air flow through rad when car is moving but when the fan cuts it it sucks these flaps to effectively close the cowling off from the hot air in the engine bay this allows the fan to acheive maximum airflow through the rad when it cuts in.
I also fitted a high speed 11 bladed fan (Profan PF211), its only 12" diameter but it shifts more volume of air than 2 x 10" fans and I have no overheat issues whatsoever - manual overide is a given, for peace of mind, and to help with heat soak when slowing or meeting traffic.
Its not the number of fans that matter its the volume of air the fan shifts and very important to acheive maximum cold air drawn through the rad hence the need to prevent air leaks around the back of the rad.
Hope thats of some help.
If you want the best fans you can get your want to get spall fans, there the ones RADTEC use.
I have a griff 500 RADTEC fan with with Twin Spall fans. The RADTEC rad has separate ali cowlings that only allow air to flow though the fan. it spaces off the fan from the Radiator by 10mm. so air from the outside, when traveling can flow via the who radiator.
Spall do different rate's of Airflow, depending how much you want to pay.
I put an Escort cosworth Ali radiator on the racecar, this came with 2 cheapish fans (they sell them for £30 each) and this keep the car within temp for a 20 minute idle test.
The engine had a high thermostat 90oC so the car was getting upto 95oC but the fan would bring it down very quickly to 85. I had the ECU turn on the 1st fan at 90oC and the 2nd at 95oC with there own relays.
I would think there never come on while racing, due to air flow, so will only ever be used for when in the pits and on the startline.
I have a griff 500 RADTEC fan with with Twin Spall fans. The RADTEC rad has separate ali cowlings that only allow air to flow though the fan. it spaces off the fan from the Radiator by 10mm. so air from the outside, when traveling can flow via the who radiator.
Spall do different rate's of Airflow, depending how much you want to pay.
I put an Escort cosworth Ali radiator on the racecar, this came with 2 cheapish fans (they sell them for £30 each) and this keep the car within temp for a 20 minute idle test.
The engine had a high thermostat 90oC so the car was getting upto 95oC but the fan would bring it down very quickly to 85. I had the ECU turn on the 1st fan at 90oC and the 2nd at 95oC with there own relays.
I would think there never come on while racing, due to air flow, so will only ever be used for when in the pits and on the startline.
My 390 has a single central fan and has no problems staying cool.
The oil-cooler was originally fitted right out at the front of the car with no thermostat (this probably led to the early failure of the oil-pump drive). The consequences of a stone through this unprotected rad could be dire.
So I fitted a thermostat, resited the filter and moved the oil-rad to immediately behind the fan. This way the air blown by the fan gets two chances to cool things, the water rad will get cooled and the same air will cool the oil rad (which should be hotter anyway - so the differential is preserved).
I had thought of fitting a thermostatic fan to the oil cooler but I don't think it needs it now.
Russ
The oil-cooler was originally fitted right out at the front of the car with no thermostat (this probably led to the early failure of the oil-pump drive). The consequences of a stone through this unprotected rad could be dire.
So I fitted a thermostat, resited the filter and moved the oil-rad to immediately behind the fan. This way the air blown by the fan gets two chances to cool things, the water rad will get cooled and the same air will cool the oil rad (which should be hotter anyway - so the differential is preserved).
I had thought of fitting a thermostatic fan to the oil cooler but I don't think it needs it now.
Russ
TVR 3X said:
My 390 has a single central fan and has no problems staying cool.
The oil-cooler was originally fitted right out at the front of the car with no thermostat (this probably led to the early failure of the oil-pump drive). The consequences of a stone through this unprotected rad could be dire.
So I fitted a thermostat, resited the filter and moved the oil-rad to immediately behind the fan. This way the air blown by the fan gets two chances to cool things, the water rad will get cooled and the same air will cool the oil rad (which should be hotter anyway - so the differential is preserved).
I had thought of fitting a thermostatic fan to the oil cooler but I don't think it needs it now.
Russ
Have to say, before the car got mothballed it never overheated, with the single fan and 2 flapps. even on a hot Le-mans day. and a few tracks days.The oil-cooler was originally fitted right out at the front of the car with no thermostat (this probably led to the early failure of the oil-pump drive). The consequences of a stone through this unprotected rad could be dire.
So I fitted a thermostat, resited the filter and moved the oil-rad to immediately behind the fan. This way the air blown by the fan gets two chances to cool things, the water rad will get cooled and the same air will cool the oil rad (which should be hotter anyway - so the differential is preserved).
I had thought of fitting a thermostatic fan to the oil cooler but I don't think it needs it now.
Russ
Also the problems since, have been due to a leaking radiator then a loose hose clip, that was only leaking under pressure.
if you want to do an easy pressure test. do the following in.
1.Get a 2nd blanking plate, (convert a std one if needed) (buy a new one from Adam, and convert the old one)
2.blank off the header tank with the blanking plate.
3.Extend the overflow pipe, and connect to a foot pump. (either one if the adaptors for blow-up beds etc or, if the pump is old. cut the end off and use a hose joiner.
4.pump the system up to 10PSI and then check for leaks / hissing.
If the join to the pump is good you should keep pressure for a good few minutes.
May not be a good idea to go over 10 PSI.
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