Discussion
Morning all
So then, anyone any strong feelings about pumps? More precisely fuel pumps, I think I want a new one. More to the point, I'm convinced the lack of brmmming is due to a lack of fuel. Doesn't like to idle, tries to die when revved, now won't seem to start at all, plugs are dry but sparking and it always has buzzed very loudly!
Anyways, a standard replacement or one of the more shiny offerings from the likes of Facet. Although this malarky would probably require a regulator too.
Now, the old Red Top was a favourite when my last toy ran on carbs but what for this one? What sort of pressure and flow rate for a 2.8?
So then, anyone any strong feelings about pumps? More precisely fuel pumps, I think I want a new one. More to the point, I'm convinced the lack of brmmming is due to a lack of fuel. Doesn't like to idle, tries to die when revved, now won't seem to start at all, plugs are dry but sparking and it always has buzzed very loudly!
Anyways, a standard replacement or one of the more shiny offerings from the likes of Facet. Although this malarky would probably require a regulator too.
Now, the old Red Top was a favourite when my last toy ran on carbs but what for this one? What sort of pressure and flow rate for a 2.8?
cheers for info+figures. Not completely decided what to do yet, think the setup as per the racer may be a little overkill? Looks like the red/silver tops are designed only for carbs, given the pressure they'll put out. Guess that's why you've got the XR3i pump too.
I would measure mine, but when I dangerously squirted petrol about@w'end not nearly enough shot across the path so my figures would prob be no good
I'm convinced it's a fuelling prob now......
I must love her still though, I waxed her last night and she's even more shiny
I would measure mine, but when I dangerously squirted petrol about@w'end not nearly enough shot across the path so my figures would prob be no good
I'm convinced it's a fuelling prob now......
I must love her still though, I waxed her last night and she's even more shiny
The petrol that squirted out was only the "residual pressure" (assuming pump not energised), that's a lot lower.
One easy thing to check is the Aux Air Regulater. It's at the top front of the motor and has two air hoses on it.
Pull them both off and look thru' it, with the engine cold you should be able to see thro' ,a torch will help.
If you see a plate across the hole it's probably gummed up. Take it off and give it a shot of carb cleaner. It should start to open.
Then wave it over the gas to heat it up, it should now start to close.
Once you are happy that it responds to heat put it back and see if the car will run.
Jeff
One easy thing to check is the Aux Air Regulater. It's at the top front of the motor and has two air hoses on it.
Pull them both off and look thru' it, with the engine cold you should be able to see thro' ,a torch will help.
If you see a plate across the hole it's probably gummed up. Take it off and give it a shot of carb cleaner. It should start to open.
Then wave it over the gas to heat it up, it should now start to close.
Once you are happy that it responds to heat put it back and see if the car will run.
Jeff
cunningly my pump works all the time, for some reason the safety switch isn't safe! So it was allegedly working, but still seemed feeble. Seen more of a squirt come out of a pump on a carb'd car. Hmmmm, I'll just go in pursuit of this widget you mention and see what I find, cheers...........
Yep, that's the little guy.
Should be open when cold. (It allows more air into plenum for cold running)
You could also stick your hand on the fuel pump with engine running, it should run continuously, if it falters it could be just a bad electrical connection. It's pretty exposed under there. (corrosion)
Best to do all the free stuff before spending the beer money.
Jeff
Should be open when cold. (It allows more air into plenum for cold running)
You could also stick your hand on the fuel pump with engine running, it should run continuously, if it falters it could be just a bad electrical connection. It's pretty exposed under there. (corrosion)
Best to do all the free stuff before spending the beer money.
Jeff
As jeff m correctly says the auxiliary air valve should be open when cold and closed when hot. Its function is to bypass the throttle butterfly during engine warm up, so to act as a fast idle control. If the symptoms you describe are when the engine is hot it is unlikely to be this valve, as all this valve can do is increase the idle speed not reduce it.
Chris.
Chris.
hmmm, she seemed to be alright starting before. Started with fast idle and gradually slowed to nice tickover. Guess this widget is alright then. Good to know how things work (or don't as the case may be) though
Hmmm, I'll have a good prod of my elastic tricks round the pump. The rest of my wires were dodgy so it probably is too, although it does sound like its running, just not pumping enough......
Prob was cutting out when hot and no restart. This now seems to have recently developed into a point blank refusal to start ever
She sparks quite strongly but don't think she is squirting enough fuel in. Could also explain why when you blipped her accelerator, she did her best to cut out. She would be OK if you gradually increased revs, but not sudden increase.........
Hmmm, I'll have a good prod of my elastic tricks round the pump. The rest of my wires were dodgy so it probably is too, although it does sound like its running, just not pumping enough......
Prob was cutting out when hot and no restart. This now seems to have recently developed into a point blank refusal to start ever
She sparks quite strongly but don't think she is squirting enough fuel in. Could also explain why when you blipped her accelerator, she did her best to cut out. She would be OK if you gradually increased revs, but not sudden increase.........York
Sorry I didn't realise it was when the motor was hot (I didn't think you were getting that far) I just thought was bad idle (after starting) and stalling when blipping the throttle.
Without a CIS type pressure gauge to test the pressures (system, control hot and cold and residual) it's difficult to fault the fuel system. Apart from the delivery check of 750ccs you could check that the air sensor plate is not sticking.
I notice that it is now difficult to start. Did you put the correct type safety relay in?
If you did, then you may have uncovered a fault. With the safety relay the engine relies on residual pressure to start. With a regular relay (pump runs when ignition on) it would not have to rely on resid press.
Lack of res press means you may have a leak in fuel system.
Jeff
Sorry I didn't realise it was when the motor was hot (I didn't think you were getting that far) I just thought was bad idle (after starting) and stalling when blipping the throttle.
Without a CIS type pressure gauge to test the pressures (system, control hot and cold and residual) it's difficult to fault the fuel system. Apart from the delivery check of 750ccs you could check that the air sensor plate is not sticking.
I notice that it is now difficult to start. Did you put the correct type safety relay in?
If you did, then you may have uncovered a fault. With the safety relay the engine relies on residual pressure to start. With a regular relay (pump runs when ignition on) it would not have to rely on resid press.
Lack of res press means you may have a leak in fuel system.
Jeff
Hello Jeff
The original problem was cutting out when hot and usually not restarting. She has always idled nicely when running. Blipping throttle caused her to try to or succeed in cutting out.
Now, she doesn't seem to want to start at all. These may be related, or I may now have an additional problem
My fuel pump has always ran when the ignition is on. It sounds like it shouldn't due to safety reasons, but that issue can be fixed at a later date I replaced the original(dodgy) relay with an identical one.
cheers
Dave
The original problem was cutting out when hot and usually not restarting. She has always idled nicely when running. Blipping throttle caused her to try to or succeed in cutting out.
Now, she doesn't seem to want to start at all. These may be related, or I may now have an additional problem
My fuel pump has always ran when the ignition is on. It sounds like it shouldn't due to safety reasons, but that issue can be fixed at a later date
I replaced the original(dodgy) relay with an identical one. cheers
Dave
Dave,
Rob's suggestion is good, there's an "o" ring seal that could have gone "soft", careful with the shims!
I have a Fuel injection diagnosis chart similar to the one that Danny posted a while back for somebodyelse.
If you need it, mail me through profile so I can send it as an attatchment.
Jeff
Rob's suggestion is good, there's an "o" ring seal that could have gone "soft", careful with the shims!
I have a Fuel injection diagnosis chart similar to the one that Danny posted a while back for somebodyelse.
If you need it, mail me through profile so I can send it as an attatchment.
Jeff
Hmmmm, it could well be faulty, who knows! I guess I'll have to make my way along the fuel lines until I find a prob.
I have just fitted a new fuel pump this evening. Bad light stopped play and I didn't dare start her due to the copious amounts of spilt petrol
I'll see what she does tomorrow, if anything......
I have just fitted a new fuel pump this evening. Bad light stopped play and I didn't dare start her due to the copious amounts of spilt petrol
I'll see what she does tomorrow, if anything......
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