HEAD GASKET REPLACEMENT
HEAD GASKET REPLACEMENT
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GRIFFONMARK

Original Poster:

199 posts

237 months

Tuesday 28th October 2008
quotequote all
I am now well past the point of no return. I took the exhaust manifolds off only to find the previous mechanic did not remove all the old gasket before fitting the new ones. Hence, the L/H exhaust has never seated properly and the metal faces have corroded were blowing meaning new gaskets will not fit unless I have the manifold refaced. Then of course there is the hole to be welded. Allan has kindly offered me some SS replacements but it is a twin pipe system. I so hope I can get it to fit...

In the meantime I have made it up to plenum removal. Surprise, surprise, there are some problems here which I have posted under Plenum Troubles. Speak to you all soon.

GRIFFONMARK

Original Poster:

199 posts

237 months

Tuesday 28th October 2008
quotequote all
Some of you may remember in my past posts I mentioned a sticky black gue at the throttle butterfly when i removed my intake pipe. I've found out what it was. My inlet manifold has bits of it all over. it looks like the remains of blue hydrosil used when mating the faces of the plenum and manifold. It has gunged out but not made any difference to sealing as I can still identify areas where the plenum has leaked.

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,553 posts

243 months

Tuesday 28th October 2008
quotequote all
What I did with mine was grind out the corrosion build up with weld then grind flush. repeat as required, Did take most of the day to get both done.

Been so much better since.

Roger McLittriss

493 posts

284 months

Tuesday 28th October 2008
quotequote all
Sounds like for 'mechanic' you need to substitute 'monkey'.


GRIFFONMARK

Original Poster:

199 posts

237 months

Tuesday 28th October 2008
quotequote all
Got both the heads off now, a lot easier than a V12 jag I once did, just undo the bolts and they drop off. However, just undo the bolts, hmmm....... The 'monkey' who tightened them up got them so tight i thought they were welded up. I had a 20 inch break bar, all the muscle I could supply and they wouldn't budge, especially that bas~@xd one at the RH rear. The only way I could do it was to stand on the engine and pretend i was pulling turnips (about the only thing I get to pull these days). All cylinders show some leakage, especially the RH bank which was happily blowing on 4,6 ,8 into the centre of the V. No.2 piston was steam cleaned with an obvious blow to the water jacket.Funnily enough this had one of the higher compressions (165 psi) whilst the other 3 RH cylinders were all high from 162 to 180. The LH bank with no sign of severe blowing were all 152.

Tomorrow is a cleaning day.

Regards

Mark

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Tuesday 28th October 2008
quotequote all
My grey 350i still bears the scar from when I did my heads - the breaker bar suddenly moved as the bolt broke free and there is a gouge on the windscreen surround - yes, that's how long it needs to be!

rev-erend

21,623 posts

314 months

Tuesday 28th October 2008
quotequote all
Did you undo one nut (break it), then break all the others before completely undoing them all..

If you undo them a few threads then go on to the next in sequence - them they do get tighter and you are not imagining it..

GRIFFONMARK

Original Poster:

199 posts

237 months

Wednesday 29th October 2008
quotequote all
Hi Reverend, yes I did 2 rounds of the bolts before removing them, that's why it took me all afternoon. The extra 4 bolts were just as tight, though RPI recommend having them at 1/2 torque so unless anyone has any objections this is what I intend to do. I don't think it's coincidence that all my cylinders leaked on the valley side of the engine.

rev-erend

21,623 posts

314 months

Wednesday 29th October 2008
quotequote all
GRIFFONMARK said:
Hi Reverend, yes I did 2 rounds of the bolts before removing them, that's why it took me all afternoon. The extra 4 bolts were just as tight, though RPI recommend having them at 1/2 torque so unless anyone has any objections this is what I intend to do. I don't think it's coincidence that all my cylinders leaked on the valley side of the engine.
That's good.. so many people make it even harder for themselves..

On mine - the extra 4 bolts just have some silicon in them.. they really are not needed. I do not use them at all.

It's well known having these torqued up to tight actually pulls the head over to the exhaust side.. not good at all and as you say - probably the cause of failure.

TVRleigh_BBWR

6,553 posts

243 months

Wednesday 29th October 2008
quotequote all
I've not got any bolts in the other row either. just high temp silicone

GRIFFONMARK

Original Poster:

199 posts

237 months

Wednesday 29th October 2008
quotequote all
Tomorrow everything will go back in place smoothly and the engine will run better than any other TVR before it. But only if I can get hold of an exhaust olive. One of mine was snapped in half when I removed it. Anyone know what they are off or where I can get one in Lancashire?

Regards

Mark

rev-erend

21,623 posts

314 months

Wednesday 29th October 2008
quotequote all
I got mine recently from Richard Thorpe (RT racing) ..

GRIFFONMARK

Original Poster:

199 posts

237 months

Sunday 2nd November 2008
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Going to use some jaguar olives which are very similar and recommended by my local exhaust chap. Got back exhaust manifolds nicely repaired & painted, and surprised how much porting could be done. Everything seems to be going back together OK with a bit of a clean. Should get it running tomorrow.......

GRIFFONMARK

Original Poster:

199 posts

237 months

Sunday 2nd November 2008
quotequote all
Didn't get it running tomorrow, why do there have to be so many grubby bits, I've never cleaned so many bits in my life1

On refitting the intake manifold & plenum, should they be assembled dry or with a smear of sealant?

Regards

Mark

pwd95

8,459 posts

268 months

Sunday 2nd November 2008
quotequote all
GRIFFONMARK said:
Didn't get it running tomorrow, why do there have to be so many grubby bits, I've never cleaned so many bits in my life1

On refitting the intake manifold & plenum, should they be assembled dry or with a smear of sealant?

Regards

Mark
I used Blue Hylomar on all the intake components. yes

rev-erend

21,623 posts

314 months

Monday 3rd November 2008
quotequote all
You can use sealant but very thin coats - as it ouzes out under compression and has a habit of finding it's way to the oil pick up strainer and blocking it..

GRIFFONMARK

Original Poster:

199 posts

237 months

Sunday 9th November 2008
quotequote all
Getting tired now, just got the alternator to refit, engine mountings to fasten up, compression test and fit plugs. This is a bloody hard job when you still have to work for a living and have no garage. Who was it who said do it yourself......

pwd95

8,459 posts

268 months

Sunday 9th November 2008
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wavey...biggrin


GRIFFONMARK

Original Poster:

199 posts

237 months

Tuesday 11th November 2008
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Vroooom, vroooom, vrooooooooooooom, crackle, crackle, pop, pop,steady burble...... God, I never thought I'd be so pleased to hear that beautiful noise. The job is finished, the Tas is a minger no more.

It fired up first turn of the key, tiny bit of tappet rattle as the oil pressure built as I had flushed the system completely, but within 5 secs the engine settled into a steady but very fast tickover, which slowed as the engine reached normal temperature. I'll spend tomorrow bleeding the cooling system and checking everything out, but it looks like a successful job. Bloody hard work but thanks to all those who gave encouragement and top advice. I could never have done this job without this forum.

I'll give my observations in another posting.

Regards

Mark


grahamw48

9,944 posts

268 months

Tuesday 11th November 2008
quotequote all
Well done ! bounce

I think you deserve a drink now. beer

Keep us informed,eh. smile