Next Project - 4 into 1 manifolds

[rev-erend]

OK - my next little project is to make a pair of 4 into 1 manifolds..

So far - I have all the bits needed .. just a picture of some of the bits I have.. supplied at very reasonable cost from JP exhausts but when you tot it all up it's pretty pricey (£320 in pipe and bends alone) - Just a few of the bits shown below :



The spec : 45mm (1 3/4 inch) pipe (wedge usually has 1 1/2 inch) 4 into 1. The collector is 3 inch but I feel this is too big - so I'm sleeving that down to 2 1/2 inch - with the 2 banks joining together as a 3 inch pipe.

Some items need fetteling .. like the gaskets which partly shroud the manifold plate.. engine builder suggested high temp silicon and on gasket but I've too chicken for that approach - I feel that it will need tightening every week and may blow easily.

Also picked up a smaller more portable gas bottle - this one only weights 29kg.. and a load of stainless welding wire.

Once all that is done - then I need to sort out the silencing...

I'm thinking along the lines of 24 inch long cherry bomb.

Edited by rev-erend on Monday 24th November 14:25

[rev-erend]

This is the only other wedge 4 - 1 I've seen :

and the pipes seem to hand down quite a lot :



In my mock up - I managed to avoid this .. althoght on the drivers side with the starter motor - it seems to make life easier to have it a bit lower.

Pipe length will be about 24 inches - which is short but favours top end power .. so kind of suits me. A 5.3 has enough torque IMHO.

[adam quantrill]

Have you got an old head to bolt those ports down onto?

I still have some tubular RR V8 manifolds - never used, I'll try and get some pics, it might give you some ideas too.

[rev-erend]

Adam - yes .. two pairs.

Bit like this ..(old manifolds - new heads) do you like the roller rockers !


Making them for the Wildcat heads .. which are a bit taller by about 1/2 inch on the exhaust port - so even more fun than normal.

Block and sump all in the car, heads rested on the block for easy access / removal : to make the job easier.

Will start this coming weekend.

Edited by rev-erend on Monday 24th November 16:29

Edited by rev-erend on Monday 24th November 16:30

[deetes]

Rev,

Are those Yella Terra's? Nice, Hmmmmmmmmmm!!!!!

[rev-erend]

deetes said:

Rev,

Are those Yella Terra's? Nice, Hmmmmmmmmmm!!!!!

No - not yella terra's ..

They are an American made roller rocker - I think they are PEP ..

Anyone notice the lack of a rocker shaft.

[grahamw48]

You're going to watch out for those road humps, with those beautiful low-slung pipes.

I had some specials made up for an Essex-engined Cortina I built years ago, and they finished up having not so clever ground clearance.

What I did was leave the threaded ends of the u-bolt clamps pointing straight down so they took the first hit rather than my expensive pipes.

[rev-erend]

The plan is actually to try and increase ground clearance - I might have to have a few more minor bends to get the pipes in the right place but that is the plan..

[gsx600]

Did jp sell you the parts directly then ,as thinking of replacing my home made steel drainpipe with a ss drainpipe

[rev-erend]

gsx600 said:

Did jp sell you the parts directly then ,as thinking of replacing my home made steel drainpipe with a ss drainpipe

Yes !

They are very reasonable compared to many others out there.

[deetes]

rev-erend said:

deetes said:

Rev,

Are those Yella Terra's? Nice, Hmmmmmmmmmm!!!!!

No - not yella terra's ..

They are an American made roller rocker - I think they are PEP ..

Anyone notice the lack of a rocker shaft.

I did notice that.

A lot of yank V8's have that type. I didn't think you could do that with a RV8, but then your heads aren't Rover. Looks good though. I take it the preload adustment is taken care of by the studs in the rockers, or are you going for solid, or even better roller lifters?

[rev-erend]

Been on solids for ages now..

The roller rockers are from a small block chevy - that's what it says on the packet anyway.

It's a 256 if that mean's much.

Over the majical 1/2 inch of lift and about 305 / 310 degrees of duration.

http://www.btinternet.com/~jon.wolfe/kentcamdata.h...

[blaineuk]

rev-erend said:

This is the only other wedge 4 - 1 I've seen :

and the pipes seem to hand down quite a lot :



In my mock up - I managed to avoid this .. althoght on the drivers side with the starter motor - it seems to make life easier to have it a bit lower.

Pipe length will be about 24 inches - which is short but favours top end power .. so kind of suits me. A 5.3 has enough torque IMHO.

thatsmine, one day it will run again.

[rev-erend]

Yes - hope you did not mind me showing them .. they were my inspiration that at least it can be done.

[blaineuk]

not a problem with you showing them , glad you think they make a difference, hope to have them back on the chassis soon

[leorest]

Seriously interesting project!
I can see me doing something similar in the not too distant future...
What welding equipment are you using?
I've done quite a bit of mild steel welding with mig and gas over the years but not stainless. how do you find it?

[rev-erend]

I have a Clark 135 and the gas is a mixture - called Coogar 5 - mix of co2 argon and a very small amount of oxygen. I will be using 0.8 mm s/s wire.

It's not as nice welding as with mild but a bit of practice and it's not bad. Hopefully it will turn out OK. The biggest problem I have is getting a nice looking weld the whole way round in 1 seemless weld but on a lot on the pipe joins I can clean some of the weld off - as strength is not hugely important (IHMO) - not like it's holding a lot of weight. The 1.6mm s/s pipe to 8mm mild steel head flange will be the hardest especially as there is are 4 corners that will probably need a little fill-in first as the pipe when placed over the flange could leave a small gap at each corner
but with a slight angle cut on the tube - it might not be an issue..

[eesbad]

rev-erend said:

The 1.6mm s/s pipe to 8mm mild steel head flange will be the hardest especially as there is are 4 corners that will probably need a little fill-in first as the pipe when placed over the flange could leave a small gap at each corner
but with a slight angle cut on the tube - it might not be an issue..

One I modelled earlier (click to enlarge) - with a round-holed flange for ease of drawing. The pipe diameter and stud pattern is correct though

You will be tight to the studs with the exhaust 'square on' to the flange as it is (assuming the stud pattern is the same on the Wildcats as the Rover). I am sure it will be peachy when it's done though - good luck Rev!

[leorest]

I didn't know you could successfully weld mild to stainless.

I'm sure you've got it all in hand but a little tip from my experiences of patching up old rusty/cracking manifolds is to bolt the flanges down hard to a flat surface (I used the head) for the welding. Prior to this the first two attempts resulted in immediate cracks as soon as the exhausts got up to temperature. As your primaries don't meet so near the head I suspect you won't have the problem to the same extent.

[rev-erend]

I'll look out for that but I've never yet seem a stainless flange on a stainless manifold.. it's always mild.

I've welded mild to stainless before but not actually with exhaust header temps .. have to see how that goes..

Might try a few practice welds first ...