doing the right thing?
Discussion
Winters a comin and I'm looking forward to that season that comes round every year and leaves me bankrupt.
No, not christmas! I refer of course to the season of " I've just got a couple of jobs that need doing on the wedge before next year's Le Mans trip darling, won't cost much, honest!!!!!"
This year I had scheduled to do the shock absorbers all round, plus maybe the springs.
Trouble is, performance is down a bit so I'm sort of thinking about an engine rebuild/new cam, rings + shells too.
The next snag is that the gearbox is starting to make some faint chattering noises in 5th when hot and under load, and the PAS system needs flushing.
I really ought to change the footwell carpets too, and I've also got a few more stone chips now than I had before........
All in all, getting even some of this sorted adds up to a lot of money
Question is, should I go for it, or sell it on as is, and get something else?
Help and guidance from those similarly afflicted amongst us would be appreciated
Andy 400se
No, not christmas! I refer of course to the season of " I've just got a couple of jobs that need doing on the wedge before next year's Le Mans trip darling, won't cost much, honest!!!!!"
This year I had scheduled to do the shock absorbers all round, plus maybe the springs.
Trouble is, performance is down a bit so I'm sort of thinking about an engine rebuild/new cam, rings + shells too.
The next snag is that the gearbox is starting to make some faint chattering noises in 5th when hot and under load, and the PAS system needs flushing.
I really ought to change the footwell carpets too, and I've also got a few more stone chips now than I had before........
All in all, getting even some of this sorted adds up to a lot of money
Question is, should I go for it, or sell it on as is, and get something else?
Help and guidance from those similarly afflicted amongst us would be appreciated
Andy 400se
OK, made my mind up.
I'm going for the engine rebuild - new cam and stuff.
Plus I'm getting the gearbox done whilst the lump is out......
Oh, and can anyone recommend the best replacement shocks for a 400se? I'm on the originals and I think I might as well do them this winter too! I've heard lots of conflicting views on this shock absorber subject, so I need guidance my fellow Wedgeristas!
Andy 400se (now officially bankrupt....
)
I'm going for the engine rebuild - new cam and stuff.
Plus I'm getting the gearbox done whilst the lump is out......
Oh, and can anyone recommend the best replacement shocks for a 400se? I'm on the originals and I think I might as well do them this winter too! I've heard lots of conflicting views on this shock absorber subject, so I need guidance my fellow Wedgeristas!
Andy 400se (now officially bankrupt....
) Andy,
For your trans try Bernie at Competition Trans on 01582-840008 - very good and reasonable prices (some of the Dealers use him)
Shocks - Try Richard at Moore Racing he can get bespoke Nitron units sorted. If taking the front end off why not go for Richards Negative camber bottom arms and adjustable coil-overs (easier to fit) he does two types - those which need a full cut and carve of the upper chassis leg for rose jointed shocks or ones that use the standard top mounts though using coil overs in this mode does stress the front top mounts. Other alternative is remove the units measure them and order replacements direct from Demon Tweaks.
Either way have fun.
GB
For your trans try Bernie at Competition Trans on 01582-840008 - very good and reasonable prices (some of the Dealers use him)
Shocks - Try Richard at Moore Racing he can get bespoke Nitron units sorted. If taking the front end off why not go for Richards Negative camber bottom arms and adjustable coil-overs (easier to fit) he does two types - those which need a full cut and carve of the upper chassis leg for rose jointed shocks or ones that use the standard top mounts though using coil overs in this mode does stress the front top mounts. Other alternative is remove the units measure them and order replacements direct from Demon Tweaks.
Either way have fun.
GB
I've had AVO's + new springs all round on mine.
I'm pretty happy wth them except - I've been lazy
and not really spent the time to get em dialed in right
.. still too hard at the front.
When I had it done earlier this yet - Nitrons had not yet been fitted to a Wedge - so I would have been the Guinea Pig... I copped out and took the Avo's...
more because of time than money.
I'm pretty happy wth them except - I've been lazy
and not really spent the time to get em dialed in right
.. still too hard at the front.
When I had it done earlier this yet - Nitrons had not yet been fitted to a Wedge - so I would have been the Guinea Pig... I copped out and took the Avo's...
more because of time than money.
Mine came with AVO's when I bought it. Well chuffed with them. Also the rears are on adjustable spring thingies. Not sure how that works but someone in the past did a lot of work and handles great.
I have no reciepts to what was done.
Anyone care to describe how the adjustable thingies work?
I have no reciepts to what was done.
Anyone care to describe how the adjustable thingies work?
Jeff, I had some adjustable AVO thingies for the rally project but sold them when I did the Moore Racing conversion.
Get the C spanner to adjust them. They'll raise or lower the car based on loading/un-loading the springs but you'll need to tweak and match the damper settings. My experience is to go to one extreme and work back from there until the car feels good but it takes ages and idealy a quiet piece of tarmac and a place to work on the car (Bruntingthorpe, Curborough, Mallory, etc). Get the spring hieght and damper setting combination right and the car will both handle well on A/B roads and also keep traction on tight corners/take off from rest.
e.g. My SEAC is too high and the prev owner set the dampers soft so it would squat on take off and thus get good traction however it's like driving a bus down A roads: Answer - Stiffen up the dampers to aid A/B road performance but then it'll break traction earlier so thus lower the arse a bit to compensate (adjust the platform thingies).
B**dy H*ll that sounds complicated on read back but it sort of works - experimentation or give it to Richard at Moore Racing to sort.
GB
Get the C spanner to adjust them. They'll raise or lower the car based on loading/un-loading the springs but you'll need to tweak and match the damper settings. My experience is to go to one extreme and work back from there until the car feels good but it takes ages and idealy a quiet piece of tarmac and a place to work on the car (Bruntingthorpe, Curborough, Mallory, etc). Get the spring hieght and damper setting combination right and the car will both handle well on A/B roads and also keep traction on tight corners/take off from rest.
e.g. My SEAC is too high and the prev owner set the dampers soft so it would squat on take off and thus get good traction however it's like driving a bus down A roads: Answer - Stiffen up the dampers to aid A/B road performance but then it'll break traction earlier so thus lower the arse a bit to compensate (adjust the platform thingies).
B**dy H*ll that sounds complicated on read back but it sort of works - experimentation or give it to Richard at Moore Racing to sort.
GB
The beast goes in for fettling on saturday!
I'm very excited. Not sure what the final spec will end up being. I'm not planning anything too radical, but the man doing the engine has some great ideas that I really like the sound of, and which I suspect should liberate some very frisky (and noisy) horses!
Also, the man doing my gearbox is simply the best - he designed the thing in the first place!
All in all, 6 weeks should see it all back together, and then it's time for the shock absorbers. Anyone got any other thoughts/opinions besides the AVOs?
Andy 400se
I'm very excited. Not sure what the final spec will end up being. I'm not planning anything too radical, but the man doing the engine has some great ideas that I really like the sound of, and which I suspect should liberate some very frisky (and noisy) horses!
Also, the man doing my gearbox is simply the best - he designed the thing in the first place!
All in all, 6 weeks should see it all back together, and then it's time for the shock absorbers. Anyone got any other thoughts/opinions besides the AVOs?
Andy 400se
went to see my engine last night - it's in bits!
It's the first time it's been apart since TVR built it, and it's an interesting combination of nice tweeks and bog standard Range Rover lump!
The engine guru in charge says it will live again and will be improved........
Plan to post piccies and a story when it's all done/
Can't wait!
Andy 400se
It's the first time it's been apart since TVR built it, and it's an interesting combination of nice tweeks and bog standard Range Rover lump!
The engine guru in charge says it will live again and will be improved........
Plan to post piccies and a story when it's all done/
Can't wait!
Andy 400se
It's all back together (well, nearly!) Started for the first time yesterday. Sounds amazing, and quite brought a lump to my throat to hear the old girl snarling again - and what a snarl!!!!
The exhaust note has changed: It's now a little bit harder and definately louder!
Mike has just got to check for leaks, fine set up the ignition timing, top off coolant, PAS and stuff, clean and tidy the engine bay and put the bonnet back on.
Woooooohooooo!
I'm off to the staes for a couple of weeks so I'll collect it when I get back, then it's the new shocks, tax and MOT, and then BACK ON THE ROAD FOR MID FEB!
Can't believe how much I've missed her.
Andy
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