Whistling 400SE
Discussion
Need a bit of advice from the experts please.
My car whistles when given some revs...sounds like a blinkin supercharger. I had assumed this was the alternator.
My first instinct if it isn't, is to look for an air leak.
What is puzzling is that the engine (hotwire) runs perfectly in every way.
She ticks over perfectly, seems to have plenty of power, revs freely, uses no oil, and is quite economical...considering.
Do they all whistle, or do I need to start looking for air leaks ?
My car whistles when given some revs...sounds like a blinkin supercharger. I had assumed this was the alternator.
My first instinct if it isn't, is to look for an air leak.
What is puzzling is that the engine (hotwire) runs perfectly in every way.
She ticks over perfectly, seems to have plenty of power, revs freely, uses no oil, and is quite economical...considering.
Do they all whistle, or do I need to start looking for air leaks ?
Ok...been for a root around.
Idle has not increased, incidentally.
There appear to be no vacuum hoses adrift, and all nice and tight.
I had a look over the whole intake assembly from air filter back, and again all secure and seemingly in good nick.
I'm assuming the 5mm holes in the valley casting under the plenum, one to the front and one to the rear are normal ?
Idle has not increased, incidentally.
There appear to be no vacuum hoses adrift, and all nice and tight.
I had a look over the whole intake assembly from air filter back, and again all secure and seemingly in good nick.
I'm assuming the 5mm holes in the valley casting under the plenum, one to the front and one to the rear are normal ?
grahamw48 said:
I'm assuming the 5mm holes in the valley casting under the plenum, one to the front and one to the rear are normal ?
I don't understand you. There's a valley cover plate made of tin under the plenum. Sometimes it's covereed with black composite material. It doesn't have holes in it. Are the holes open or blind (closed). Any oil around them?
Hmm, will investigate tomorrow...thanks.
Where is this air idle bleed screw ?
Your afm looks different to mine, by the way.
My engine is out of a Chim. Don't know if that makes any difference.
Anyway, I'll run it up in the garage and try to find where this whistling is coming from. I do hope it's not an air leak...could be a t
t to find. 
I'd have thought it (air leak) would have affected the tickover, and that was set by RT Racing last summer, and not touched since.
Where is this air idle bleed screw ?
Your afm looks different to mine, by the way.
My engine is out of a Chim. Don't know if that makes any difference.
Anyway, I'll run it up in the garage and try to find where this whistling is coming from. I do hope it's not an air leak...could be a t
t to find. I'd have thought it (air leak) would have affected the tickover, and that was set by RT Racing last summer, and not touched since.
Hi Graham,
I didn't think that the Hotwire had an idle bleed screw as the idle speed is controlled by the infamous stepper motor
Could be wrong as mines a flapper (snarl crackle pop) and looking my plenum it's got a later hotwire throttle pot so it may be a bit of a hybrid (my engines out of a chimp but not the injection) in which case the idle bypass is just next to the throttle body, somewhere near the throttle return spring and it will be looking up at you so to speak, it's in a recess which may be covered by a plastic anti tamper plug and is some odd AF size allen screw...
I didn't think that the Hotwire had an idle bleed screw as the idle speed is controlled by the infamous stepper motor
Could be wrong as mines a flapper (snarl crackle pop) and looking my plenum it's got a later hotwire throttle pot so it may be a bit of a hybrid (my engines out of a chimp but not the injection) in which case the idle bypass is just next to the throttle body, somewhere near the throttle return spring and it will be looking up at you so to speak, it's in a recess which may be covered by a plastic anti tamper plug and is some odd AF size allen screw...Edited by B@man on Sunday 8th March 08:26
grahamw48 said:
I do hope it's not an air leak...could be a **** to find.
It's nothing more than a tedious doddle. Study the simplicity here ---http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Rover_Te...
--- and the beauty of the process is that one learns so much about the system whilst performing miracles.
honestjohntoo said:
grahamw48 said:
I do hope it's not an air leak...could be a **** to find.
It's nothing more than a tedious doddle. Study the simplicity here ---http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Rover_Te...
--- and the beauty of the process is that one learns so much about the system whilst performing miracles.
It really is time I got my head round fuel injection (and the RV8)
I promise to study the above.
grahamw48 said:
I promise to study ---
Graham, admire the simplicity of component essay explanations for all aspects of a seemingly complex system. Re-compiled and expanded specifically for the DIY Flapper Efi enthusiast from original Rover technical resource, each essay takes readers on a journey of discovery thro' purpose, function, operation, fault conditions, testing and (occasionally) repair/replacement for all significant components. In addition, similarly re-compiled for home use, seek out a coveted, surprisingly simple ops manual seamlessly stitching everything together. Anyone trying to divine the best from their Flapper Efi can do worse than study the information until self-diagnosis of Efi fault conditions becomes second nature.
..Danny Hoffman said:
Have you tried removing the fan belt to elimate the alternator & waterpump?
Will be doing that shortly....been a busy day. Meanwhile....hear my engine and see what you think.
I'll go with alternator.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFqATGvLavc
Here's the other end of the car.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_se5L-MCVA
Sorry, just messing with my crappy little digicam.
Edited by grahamw48 on Sunday 8th March 19:28
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