Another frustrated "Wedger" trying to remove o/s manifold

[roonsta]

Hi gang, new to this, have been reading loads of your really informative posts & replies, specially on the removal of the dreaded o/s manifold! Mine is jacked up about 14" off the ground front and back in a normal sized garage,I have managed to remove all the nuts,and the starter motor to try to wiggle,huff and puff the damn thing out! After reading some of the previous replies it suggests removing the engine mounting bolts and jacking up via the sump, my problem is, my temp jack suports are in the way so it is not practicle to do this, plus I can only get to the offside!!!! would it be possible to remove the steering link assembly to allow the exhaust to drop freely (ha ha) to the floor? This seems the only other way for me to remove the manifold, can anyone tell me how to remove/part this assembly without causing any damage or heartach upon replacement?

Thanks in anticipation.

[redweapon]

Just got my OS manifold back on, can't see how you are going to do it without jacking the engine. Only needs to go up 1-2 inches to clear the bell housing and the chassis but needs to move up. Borrow small jack. Don't tit about with the steering. Good luck.

[SubRosa]

The engine mount has to be removed and the engine jacked up to get the o/s manifold off.

[peaktorque]

SubRosa said:

The engine mount has to be removed and the engine jacked up to get the o/s manifold off.

Yes, there really is no other way!

[B-Reight]

Just be careful with the clutch hydraulic line when jacking the engine up, managed to sheer mine last time.

[CarbonWedge]

SubRosa said:

The engine mount has to be removed and the engine jacked up to get the o/s manifold off.

I'm afraid so....

[roonsta]

Thanks all for the replies, took the bull by the horns and went for the removal of the steering linkage removal. Took a bit of persuasion and plenty of penetrating fluid - what would we do without good old WD40!!- had a wiggle and a jiggle and down the exhaust came YIPPEE!!!!

Bad news is that there are splits in both parts of the two main down pipes and it could be beyond welding. Will give that a try first though. Otherwise it will have to be re-newed.

Can you get the identical off the shelf? Or is the costs around the same for made-up. Stainless against mild steel ? So many choices!!!

Input please...

[wooly350i]

hallo,i bought mine from David Gerald about 6 or 7 years ago in mild steel but found that once bolted up at engine i had to do mods at bottom end to prevent strain.So they were bolted up to engine, marked up where to cut and bend then removed and cut,refitted and tack welded then removed to weld complete before finally going back on! The heat wrap wrapped around the original manifolds just held water and contributed to their corrosion.Also the offside manifold needed a classy smack in one place with a ball hammer to allow it to clear chassis tube,wooly

[Campbell]

I cant see what the problem with removing the o/s manifold as i had to take mine off on saturday to get the engine out, only took 30 mins or so for the pair to drop out once the starter was removed, no need to jack up the engine for it to clear any thing.
The engine bay on the SEAC cant be different to othere wedges?
Cambelt

[roonsta]

Thanks guys, guess all pipes arn''t the same. Manifold gone for repair at the mo, don't think I'll be using any of the heat shield, may just proect the cables instead!

regards

[adam quantrill]

CarbonWedge said:

SubRosa said:

The engine mount has to be removed and the engine jacked up to get the o/s manifold off.

I'm afraid so....

You don't need to take off the whole mount, just the two horizontal bolts (and even then I just put in two longer ones so it's p1ss easy to do it back up afterwards.)