Tasmin driveshaft
Discussion
Loads of threads on this subject. Suggest maybe using the 'search' facility.
Should pull up what you need to know.
This might help.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Oh welcome by the way.
Should pull up what you need to know.
This might help.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Oh welcome by the way.

Edited by Waynester on Tuesday 14th April 13:51
Trolley jack get the car up high. Block front wheels.
Support the lower link on the other side of the car with axle stand,
Support the "working side" on the cross member just past the trailing arm bushing.
Bottle jack to lift hub carrier, place coil spring compressors on coil, lower jack till you can remove shock.
Remove nut/bolt on lower link at diff carrier.
Remove the four nuts on drive shaft.
With those nuts off and the lower link free you will be able to pull back the hub carrier so the drive shaft clears the bolts.
Collect shims. They have to go back.
The disc will now be loose on the four nuts.
Remove caliper
, cut wire undo the two bolts. They have to be wound out with an open end spanner. They WILL be tough to undo
There will also be shims behind the disc to centre it in the caliper.
I use an impact gun for undoing nuts.
To undo the four bolts on diff end of the drive shaft will be difficult without a really good handbrake, something most wedge owners don't have
You could try putting a bar between the wheel studs.
Is it simple....only if you use an impact gun.
I would consider putting new calipers as you don't want to do this twice.
they are $80 each (I'm in the States)
While you are in there change the brake hose, it's probably original and ready to give up. Even if you put back the old calipers at least change the hose.
Check UJs for play and rotating caps. Bushings ? The list is endless
Support the lower link on the other side of the car with axle stand,
Support the "working side" on the cross member just past the trailing arm bushing.
Bottle jack to lift hub carrier, place coil spring compressors on coil, lower jack till you can remove shock.
Remove nut/bolt on lower link at diff carrier.
Remove the four nuts on drive shaft.
With those nuts off and the lower link free you will be able to pull back the hub carrier so the drive shaft clears the bolts.
Collect shims. They have to go back.
The disc will now be loose on the four nuts.
Remove caliper
, cut wire undo the two bolts. They have to be wound out with an open end spanner. They WILL be tough to undo
There will also be shims behind the disc to centre it in the caliper.
I use an impact gun for undoing nuts.
To undo the four bolts on diff end of the drive shaft will be difficult without a really good handbrake, something most wedge owners don't have

You could try putting a bar between the wheel studs.
Is it simple....only if you use an impact gun.
I would consider putting new calipers as you don't want to do this twice.
they are $80 each (I'm in the States)
While you are in there change the brake hose, it's probably original and ready to give up. Even if you put back the old calipers at least change the hose.
Check UJs for play and rotating caps. Bushings ? The list is endless

I'm going to be starting on this task this weekend, and will be taking a week off work to make some good progress (get suspension units gritblasted & powder coated, polybushes all round, and a lick of paint on the chassis etc.). I'm hoping it's more labour intensive, than it is financially woeful.
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


