Anybody got a 280i euro ecu lying around collecting dust
Anybody got a 280i euro ecu lying around collecting dust
Author
Discussion

benebob

Original Poster:

365 posts

211 months

Wednesday 13th May 2009
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Seems that the previous owner did some creative removal of well all the us emissions stuff. Car needed a fuel distributor anyways so I got one for a Capri, got the car running slightly with a vw fuel pump hardwired to a batter box, now I'm guessing I should start looking for a euro ecu since the Capri fuel distibutor lacks the slot for the pressure return and I have no o2 sensor, it has an aftermarket ignition etc.

jeff m

4,066 posts

288 months

Thursday 14th May 2009
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Ben,
This guy, blitz@teamblitz.com ( Norm) may be able to help you with regard to the return when using a Mercury Capri FD.

Not by the pressure regulator ?

Can't help with ECU, sorry.

wedgeinald

1,314 posts

220 months

Thursday 14th May 2009
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Is your 280i EFi or Mechanical Fuel Injection?

Only reason I ask is mine is Mechanical and has no actual ECU just an ignition amplifier. (which failed after the winter) I was able to replace the ignition amp with a "generic" part for under £30.

Obvioulsy if your has EFi then thats completely different to mine.

Just my 20p worth.

Norman

Grady

1,233 posts

290 months

Thursday 14th May 2009
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I hope to be wrong but I don't think Norm can help with FI issues as I'm pretty sure he told me we only had carberated Capris over here.

benebob

Original Poster:

365 posts

211 months

Thursday 14th May 2009
quotequote all
My fuel distributor (or meter) is not out of a Merc Capri but a Ford Capri Injection 2.8 which used the bosch k-jet on the 2.8 as well. US has that frequency pressure valve which in theory works when the pressure gets too high it'll send more fuel back to the fuel tank (it has its own inlet from the US fuel dist and then goes into a "double" banjo bolt coupled with the standard return for it). My car has the wiring cut for it, also it is catless and missing its o2 sensor and wiring but does have the warm up regulator wiring and aux air wiring hooked up. Granted I've yet to find where this computer is in the car but from my understanding the US one runs at limp mode when it doesn't have these on.

jeff m

4,066 posts

288 months

Friday 15th May 2009
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benebob said:
Granted I've yet to find where this computer is in the car but from my understanding the US one runs at limp mode when it doesn't have these on.
I'll just stay open loop, a little richer.
The manual says the emission ECU which pulses the Freq valve is ...." on Series 2 cars is located under the dashboard on the passenger side where the relay panel is situated. On earlier cars it is located in the trunk compartment behind the left hand trim panel"

Vertical radiator car, look in the trunk.






Grady

1,233 posts

290 months

Friday 15th May 2009
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Are you going to need to put the cats back on to get inspected or do you have a old car/low mileage exemption?

benebob

Original Poster:

365 posts

211 months

Friday 15th May 2009
quotequote all
Yeah I was planning on going with an open loop system and little richer isn't an issue but apparently the US computer will put it into limp mode if it isn't getting the signal from the o2 or the pressure valve which would neglect any benefit of not having cats and the like to begin with.

As for emissions I'll be exempt if I stay under 5k, first year will cost me though as I'll need to buy enough emission parts to reach the expension unless my mechanic will let it slide.

Grady

1,233 posts

290 months

Saturday 16th May 2009
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Shouldn't be too hard to mimic the signal and fool the ECU out of limp mode.

Grady

1,233 posts

290 months

Saturday 16th May 2009
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As for cats, there was a reason they crammed one under/in front of the engine. I wasted $$$ and put them too far aft (first open space) where they don't get hot enough.

Grady

1,233 posts

290 months

Sunday 17th May 2009
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An ECU thought... I have been fighting with a surging-dropping idle. Tuned-up everything, car ran fine but get off the gas and the idle would drop below 400 RPM and then after a second or so surge back up to 1300 then drop again. I figured is was some feedback loop. Got a bit scary as the engine tended to die as it came to a stop.

Read my Bible this morning and on a hunch disconnected the Lambda senor and problem is solved (I think). The car runs a strongly as before (no limp home). Don't know if it's a bad sensor or ECU.

Point being if you don't have inspections you may not need the sensor or ECU. Even without it connected, my CO is 1.1 to 1.4. Grady

Edited by Grady on Sunday 17th May 19:41