Discussion
This is probably going to turn into a "they all do that sir" but...
Trying to open the boot is an arse, you have to grab the spoiler with one hand and push the boot release with the other otherwise the weight of the boot lid just closes the catch again and you are back to square one, looking a pillock trying not to drop the targa top while thinking "I should have opened the bloody boot first" (It does now stay open since I fitted SGS struts)
Am I correct in thinking that getting the catch to overcome the weight of the bootlid + spoiler is a case of replacing the spring under the catch with something a bit more substantial ??
Trying to open the boot is an arse, you have to grab the spoiler with one hand and push the boot release with the other otherwise the weight of the boot lid just closes the catch again and you are back to square one, looking a pillock trying not to drop the targa top while thinking "I should have opened the bloody boot first" (It does now stay open since I fitted SGS struts)
Am I correct in thinking that getting the catch to overcome the weight of the bootlid + spoiler is a case of replacing the spring under the catch with something a bit more substantial ??
adam quantrill said:
In that case you rest the targa on end on your foot while you lift the bootlid with your left hand and press the button with your right hand ;^)
It does get easier with practice, but you're right, it is a pain!
I plan on replacing my original/worn out struts which hopefully will lift the lid off the catch when the button is pressed...should do, eh?
This is an advantage for the 'anti spoiler brigade' lids lighter.
I have no idea how heavy my (seac) spoiler is...
adam quantrill said:
Do you have an alarm with a remote? I'm going to come up with a simple upgrade so you can click the blipper and it'll pulse the boot release. This will fit into the boot behind the inner skin where the lights are. Interested?
My Clifford alarm has this facility. Shame the monkeys who installed it for the previous owner (for £575!) couldn't be ar53d to wire it in 
.I also modded my wiring so that the boot lamps have a permanent 12v feed rather than only working when the sidelights are on, as they did originally. The switch that grounds them as you open the boot also acts as the trip switch for the alarm system.
redwedge5 said:
Yes, if you fit new struts this will easily overcome the problem. A few years back I got them from RT racing. The power of the struts was adjustable so they work as you want with all size boot spoilers including SEAC.
New struts make the lid stay open but don't help to "pop it" back to my box of springs...If I replaced the 400 spoiler with a SEAC one I could make a good welly wanger
I fitted a remote opener on my wedge when I had her. Great mod and well worthwhile. I obtained a toad alarm system with a 3 chanel remote. I used the 3rd chanel to pop the boot. I gave it a permament live feed so you didn't need the ignition on. All you need is the alarm system and an extra relay.
Time wise, if you know roughly what your doing and can follow instructions, allow a day and a half to fit alarm system and boot popper. If your just after a remote boot popper, I'd imagine about 4 hours to fit and hid all wiring etc.
Time wise, if you know roughly what your doing and can follow instructions, allow a day and a half to fit alarm system and boot popper. If your just after a remote boot popper, I'd imagine about 4 hours to fit and hid all wiring etc.
Edited by L33 on Wednesday 3rd June 12:41
matt-man said:
OR.....
You could take the spoiler off and the problem goes away...
Right you go stand in the corner You could take the spoiler off and the problem goes away...
I'm looking at adding remote locking and think the kit has an extra output for boot popping so that's a possibility, just need to bypass the TVR relay !
Oh before I forget, Ian thanks for the tip on the boot light, I just assumed it didn't work, never though of turning the side lights on !
My replacement rear upright should be here this weekend so I'll be mostly mucking about with wheel bearings (again)
when I got bored with that I may take the single remining screw holding the boot trim off and have a look to see what I can fiddle with next. Sorted 
Removed the tiny 'ikle spring, waited while it was looking the other way and then moved in the wire cutters, the spring is now about 50% of it's former self but it is strong enough to stop the boot pushing the latch back down
Result !
Shame the bloody wheel bearing saga wasn't as easy
Removed the tiny 'ikle spring, waited while it was looking the other way and then moved in the wire cutters, the spring is now about 50% of it's former self but it is strong enough to stop the boot pushing the latch back down
Result !
Shame the bloody wheel bearing saga wasn't as easy
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