Discussion
You get extra cooling due to the extra air flow though radiator, at speed so you will run slightly cooler at speed. most of the times at that speed your fan will never come on. 90oC is fine though, once you start to go over 98 then you may want to start worry.
Still got a few gremlins in the racing and one of them is cooling, was running 103-106 in the second race at brands, I it was at 4500-6200 RPM for the full 20mins, without any problems. It's only a temp engine, so did not overly care if it blew-up. but it was fine (would not run the 400SE that hot though), so would not worry too much at 90oC.
Will try a 74oC stat at the next race. see if that help. was strange as at Rockingham it was running below 90oC air temp was a lot cooler, plus was pushing harder at brands.
Also will have a new splitter soon, so when I fit it I will make sure more air is channeled though the rad, as currently a lot can go round, plus having the rad at a angle can't help.
Still got a few gremlins in the racing and one of them is cooling, was running 103-106 in the second race at brands, I it was at 4500-6200 RPM for the full 20mins, without any problems. It's only a temp engine, so did not overly care if it blew-up. but it was fine (would not run the 400SE that hot though), so would not worry too much at 90oC.
Will try a 74oC stat at the next race. see if that help. was strange as at Rockingham it was running below 90oC air temp was a lot cooler, plus was pushing harder at brands.
Also will have a new splitter soon, so when I fit it I will make sure more air is channeled though the rad, as currently a lot can go round, plus having the rad at a angle can't help.
Jonny weggie said:
does anyone have any idea's on this?
Yes; your car sounds fine. The engine was generating a lot of heat and once off the motorway no longer had a strong breeze to cool the rad. No need to worry unless it goes into the late 90s for a prolonged period. A usefull precaution is to check that the temperature guage is accurate.
To help things along I have filled the gap between the spoiler and rad with a thin sheet of metal. Suitable fixed and secured. Same with the top, just had foam on initially so now I have those filled I have started on the sides and nearly have it all leak free, that is all air going in the front goes to the rad instead of spilling out everywhere. Not sure how this works with preventing the fan sucking warm air back in through the gaps but no issues so far and think there was plenty of opportunity for the warm air to get back in but might be barking up the wrong tree there. Cooling is certainly more predictable.
Edit. Fan override switch is worth it.
Edit. Fan override switch is worth it.
Edited by jmorgan on Monday 22 June 11:52
Jonny weggie]Coming home from the wedgefest found that the car sitting at 80 degrees motorway driving [normal said:
and yet when slowed down to 40/50 mph tempature guage went up to 90 degrees
It is possible your thermostat is not closing. 90 degrees is the norm so if your car isn't getting to that with forced air (car moving ) maybe the thermostat is not closing. Can you compare the warm up time to another 350? Does it take longer?On mine, (when it runs....) you can watch the thermostat open/close on the temp guage (small movement on the needle. If you start the car from cold you should be able to hold the output pipe from the thermostat housing until it opens up. You will get a rush of hot water as the stat opens. The stat should remain closed umtil the engine is up to temp (quicker warm up time with radiator not in the loop, No pun intended)
Checked the car last and found that the fans weren't working, so cut a long story short all the power is getting to the kenlowe switch at the top of rad and no power after that so thats my next job checking wires on top of rad.
jonny..
jonny..
Edited by Jonny weggie on Wednesday 24th June 16:17
Hi Jonny, don't know if this is of any help http://www.tvrwhiteelephant.co.uk/pdf/jet_boost_wi...
Think I may have a standard wiring diagram somewhere if you need it let me know and I will scan a post a copy.
Chedder,
You sure you haven't put that 'Rusty Nail' in the system instead of antifreeze?
Think I may have a standard wiring diagram somewhere if you need it let me know and I will scan a post a copy.
Chedder,
You sure you haven't put that 'Rusty Nail' in the system instead of antifreeze?
chedder said:
Hi Jonny, don't know if this is of any help http://www.tvrwhiteelephant.co.uk/pdf/jet_boost_wi...
Think I may have a standard wiring diagram somewhere if you need it let me know and I will scan a post a copy.
Chedder,
You sure you haven't put that 'Rusty Nail' in the system instead of antifreeze?
ChedderThink I may have a standard wiring diagram somewhere if you need it let me know and I will scan a post a copy.
Chedder,
You sure you haven't put that 'Rusty Nail' in the system instead of antifreeze?
That would have supper charged the Wedge, its just you softer bellow the border types may not handle the 'Wee Rusty Nail'
Cambelt
Got to the problem this weekend when Sandy and i whipped the bonnet off took the wireing loom apart that runs along the top of the rad to check for the break in the wire, started to meter the wires and trying the over ride switch at the same time, fans came on turned everything off tried again nothing followed wires to the earth all looked great untill i happened to check them when 1 wire fell out hanging by a thread, put back together and works every time,sorted, so that just show's you maybe check the simple things first. jonny.. 
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff