heating problem on startermotor SEAC
heating problem on startermotor SEAC
Author
Discussion

cantus

Original Poster:

932 posts

282 months

Monday 22nd June 2009
quotequote all
Gentleman,

My startermotor fails after a warm (hot) ride.
After 15 minutes cooling down startermotor works again.
But, when startermotor was brandnew (2008) startermotor ran very fast. Now when hot and cold startermotor runs slow. (Battery is new).
So I think the heat is damaging the startermotor and decreasing the rpm.

please advice.

thanks
William

rev-erend

21,623 posts

314 months

Monday 22nd June 2009
quotequote all
Put some heat insulation on it smile

cantus

Original Poster:

932 posts

282 months

Monday 22nd June 2009
quotequote all
rev-erend said:
Put some heat insulation on it smile
How ?
A plate between exhaust and startermotor ?
Or wraparound heatingcloth around exhaust or around startermotor?

Campbell

2,500 posts

313 months

Monday 22nd June 2009
quotequote all
Hi Cantus

If i were you i would wrap the starter and the solinoide too with some sort of heat reflective material.

Cant say ive had heat problems with the starter but mines always been slow..
What make model of battery are you running as im going to get a new one but the space is limited.

Cambelt

rev-erend

21,623 posts

314 months

Monday 22nd June 2009
quotequote all
Heat wrap .. and make sure it's not metalic on the inside else it will short out .. big time frown

combine

3,114 posts

259 months

Tuesday 23rd June 2009
quotequote all
My starter was doing the same thing ie slow turning when starting , got a new one and wrapped some heat shield stuff round it including wiring .

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Tuesday 23rd June 2009
quotequote all
If it's turning slowly the most likely problem is that the commutator/slip rings or brushes have tarnished in some way and there is a slightly higher resistance than usual. It won't need much resistance to significantly reduce the current and slow down the motor.

If you can keep the heat off it, it might recover as the tarnish gets worn away over many starts. Alternatively, open it up and clean off the contacts with wire wool to get back to bright copper.

I've certainly noticed the old one on my 350i was quite slow, and replacing it with a new landrover one it was twice as quick, presumably the old one had been cooked over the years....

chedder

1,329 posts

237 months

Tuesday 23rd June 2009
quotequote all
Plumbers heat/soldering mats are cheap (£3) and just the right size, non metallic too.

cantus

Original Poster:

932 posts

282 months

Wednesday 1st July 2009
quotequote all
Like this ?


rev-erend

21,623 posts

314 months

Wednesday 1st July 2009
quotequote all
That looks like it should do it smile

Has it made it cooler ?

cantus

Original Poster:

932 posts

282 months

Wednesday 1st July 2009
quotequote all
rev-erend said:
That looks like it should do it smile

Has it made it cooler ?
Will try this weekend. First have to check the brakes.

cantus

Original Poster:

932 posts

282 months

Wednesday 8th July 2009
quotequote all
The problem is solved. The insulation around the exhaust really works.
Startermotor turns around quickly when engine is hot.
Thanks all for your advice.

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Thursday 9th July 2009
quotequote all
Have you got stainless manifolds? If not, you'll get rot under the insulation.

H2DCA

901 posts

270 months

Thursday 9th July 2009
quotequote all
adam quantrill said:
Have you got stainless manifolds? If not, you'll get rot under the insulation.
Yep you will if you leave it long term, just removed the insulation on my manifolds after two years and that is more than enough time before the rot starts setting in. Looks like the timing was right as they just needed a very good wire brush and a coat of paint. However the insulation did the trick with keeping under bonnet temp down and if the manifolds were a bit easier to come off I would probably insulate them again and remove every year to check for the rot. I will be putting a small amount on one manifold near the starter as it's a bit close for comfort or I may get one of these

http://www.agriemach.com/default.php?cPath=0_7_88


Edited by H2DCA on Thursday 9th July 14:56

Waynester

6,532 posts

280 months

Friday 10th July 2009
quotequote all
I've noticed as well a tendency for my starter to turn slow after a decent run - i assume it's the same issue as the OP?

The starter motor shield link is interesting, pic's is a bit small to see the detail though?


CHJ

785 posts

243 months

Saturday 11th July 2009
quotequote all
You can get a high-torque starter motor. They are quite a bit smaller than the OE and so there's more clearance from the exhaust. Mine turns over the engine unbelieveably quickly and the battery drain is much less. About £80 for a new unit I think.

Chris

grahamw48

9,944 posts

268 months

Saturday 11th July 2009
quotequote all
Waynester said:
I've noticed as well a tendency for my starter to turn slow after a decent run - i assume it's the same issue as the OP?

The starter motor shield link is interesting, pic's is a bit small to see the detail though?
25 quid for a bit of foil though...must be off the space shuttle...balls to that. irked

A sliced coke can will probably be just as effective.

cantus

Original Poster:

932 posts

282 months

Sunday 12th July 2009
quotequote all
adam quantrill said:
Have you got stainless manifolds? If not, you'll get rot under the insulation.
Yep , the're stainless , so no rot.