Re-post from main TVR forum - Been to check out a Wedge
Discussion
Hey everyone, KingFisher's son here. Me and my dad have just been to check out a Wedge 350i, with the view to it being my first step on the TVR ladder. Now, the car seemed to run fine, with the engine seeming in good order (and very good sound too). The only worries I had were that the gearstick felt more wobbly than other TVRs I've driven, but they have all been Chimaeras.....is the rover gearbox a less robust unit than the T5? Secondly, the brakes seemed to need a heavy shuv to work, is this normal? The chassis had had some outriggers re-welded, with some new sections added. Is this ok and normal on Wedges? Finally, the interior was in need of some serious TLC, including new walnut veneers, new interior door handle covers, and some re-stitching on the lether where it's cracked. How much would this cost? Any help would be great!
for me the most iportant thing would be the chassis, followed by the engine (on a 350), than interior and electrics. brakes arent very efficient. gearbox i do not have any expirience.
rusty outtriggers is very common. this is my personal opinion now:
i only bought my Tasmins with original, unwelded chassis where the powdercoating was perfectly present, but:
its hard to find such ones, especially 350 models. in the first years TVR´s powdercoating was very good (as it was done external by a specilist). after a few years TVR started to coat the chassis themselves and the quality problems began. i m not sure when the first 350model was built and when tvr started the coating process themselves...so you´ll often find early 280 models in a better chassis condition than the later 350ones.
rusty outtriggers is very common. this is my personal opinion now:
i only bought my Tasmins with original, unwelded chassis where the powdercoating was perfectly present, but:
its hard to find such ones, especially 350 models. in the first years TVR´s powdercoating was very good (as it was done external by a specilist). after a few years TVR started to coat the chassis themselves and the quality problems began. i m not sure when the first 350model was built and when tvr started the coating process themselves...so you´ll often find early 280 models in a better chassis condition than the later 350ones.
Comadis said:
for me the most iportant thing would be the chassis, followed by the engine (on a 350), than interior and electrics. brakes arent very efficient. gearbox i do not have any expirience.
rusty outtriggers is very common. this is my personal opinion now:
i only bought my Tasmins with original, unwelded chassis where the powdercoating was perfectly present, but:
its hard to find such ones, especially 350 models. in the first years TVR´s powdercoating was very good (as it was done external by a specilist). after a few years TVR started to coat the chassis themselves and the quality problems began. i m not sure when the first 350model was built and when tvr started the coating process themselves...so you´ll often find early 280 models in a better chassis condition than the later 350ones.
Ok, I'll give it some more thought. So as long as the chassis is sound, and the engine is ok, those are the main things? rusty outtriggers is very common. this is my personal opinion now:
i only bought my Tasmins with original, unwelded chassis where the powdercoating was perfectly present, but:
its hard to find such ones, especially 350 models. in the first years TVR´s powdercoating was very good (as it was done external by a specilist). after a few years TVR started to coat the chassis themselves and the quality problems began. i m not sure when the first 350model was built and when tvr started the coating process themselves...so you´ll often find early 280 models in a better chassis condition than the later 350ones.
King Fisher said:
Hey everyone, KingFisher's son here. Me and my dad have just been to check out a Wedge 350i, with the view to it being my first step on the TVR ladder. Now, the car seemed to run fine, with the engine seeming in good order (and very good sound too). The only worries I had were that the gearstick felt more wobbly than other TVRs I've driven, but they have all been Chimaeras.....is the rover gearbox a less robust unit than the T5? Secondly, the brakes seemed to need a heavy shuv to work, is this normal? The chassis had had some outriggers re-welded, with some new sections added. Is this ok and normal on Wedges? Finally, the interior was in need of some serious TLC, including new walnut veneers, new interior door handle covers, and some re-stitching on the lether where it's cracked. How much would this cost? Any help would be great!
1. See if someone on here knows the car.2. Gear lever wobble is normally perished rubber mounts for the remote, cheap and easy to fix.
3.Rover gearbox also used on bigger engined wedges, not the slickest of shifts.
4. Outriggers, they nearly all need/have had them done. Just make sure they have done a good job.
5. Heavy brakes, has the car been standing? depends what you are used too.
6. Interior - This is where it can get expensive.
7. Any parts Rover, Ford, Jaguar etc that are used on the wedge are relatively cheap. Custom made TVR parts are dearer ie exhausts and interiors.
The end result is buy one and enjoy it. So what if its a bit scruffy, if its all you can afford go for it.
I would say check & re-check that chassis, if it looks good, check and see if it indeed has had new outriggers in the past. Is there any supporting paperwork to back-up the 'professional' approach?
Also check other things, like the hood. Was in place when you viewed the car?
If not put it up and check for tears/splits and knackered/bent X2 locking bars. These can get very tired and possibly bent if someone in-experienced puts the roof up incorrectly.
Make sure to make yourself known when (or if) you do purchase a Big Bad Wedge!
Also check other things, like the hood. Was in place when you viewed the car?
If not put it up and check for tears/splits and knackered/bent X2 locking bars. These can get very tired and possibly bent if someone in-experienced puts the roof up incorrectly.
Make sure to make yourself known when (or if) you do purchase a Big Bad Wedge!
Waynester said:
I would say check & re-check that chassis, if it looks good, check and see if it indeed has had new outriggers in the past. Is there any supporting paperwork to back-up the 'professional' approach?
Also check other things, like the hood. Was in place when you viewed the car?
If not put it up and check for tears/splits and knackered/bent X2 locking bars. These can get very tired and possibly bent if someone in-experienced puts the roof up incorrectly.
Make sure to make yourself known when (or if) you do purchase a Big Bad Wedge!
The outriggers had been done by the owner himself. Obviously you could see where the welding had been done, but it seemed structurally sound. I did have a good look underneath it, and nothing shouted out that it was in bad shape, but I am a complete beginner to the TVR Wedge! The hood was good and we put it up and took it down (it went up with the windows up, which is quite rare apparently). The locking bars did feel a little flimsy, but once locked they stayed in place fine. Also check other things, like the hood. Was in place when you viewed the car?
If not put it up and check for tears/splits and knackered/bent X2 locking bars. These can get very tired and possibly bent if someone in-experienced puts the roof up incorrectly.
Make sure to make yourself known when (or if) you do purchase a Big Bad Wedge!
pistolar said:
King Fisher said:
Hey everyone, KingFisher's son here. Me and my dad have just been to check out a Wedge 350i, with the view to it being my first step on the TVR ladder. Now, the car seemed to run fine, with the engine seeming in good order (and very good sound too). The only worries I had were that the gearstick felt more wobbly than other TVRs I've driven, but they have all been Chimaeras.....is the rover gearbox a less robust unit than the T5? Secondly, the brakes seemed to need a heavy shuv to work, is this normal? The chassis had had some outriggers re-welded, with some new sections added. Is this ok and normal on Wedges? Finally, the interior was in need of some serious TLC, including new walnut veneers, new interior door handle covers, and some re-stitching on the lether where it's cracked. How much would this cost? Any help would be great!
1. See if someone on here knows the car.2. Gear lever wobble is normally perished rubber mounts for the remote, cheap and easy to fix.
3.Rover gearbox also used on bigger engined wedges, not the slickest of shifts.
4. Outriggers, they nearly all need/have had them done. Just make sure they have done a good job.
5. Heavy brakes, has the car been standing? depends what you are used too.
6. Interior - This is where it can get expensive.
7. Any parts Rover, Ford, Jaguar etc that are used on the wedge are relatively cheap. Custom made TVR parts are dearer ie exhausts and interiors.
The end result is buy one and enjoy it. So what if its a bit scruffy, if its all you can afford go for it.
Comadis said:
I have now!grahamw48 said:
Let me know where you live in York (text or phone me again), and I'll drop round at the weekend and show you a healthy Wedge with a great engine and chassis, but just in need of minor cosmetics...next on the list...and there is always a list.
Cheers Graham! I'll text you my address now!Message received...will contact you later in the week.
So it's Adam's car you've been to see.
A regular PHer and good egg...also owner of the 400SX.
I was chatting to him at Blackpool last week.
Pity you can't stretch to this one that's just come on classifieds...my last car...a real beauty.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/1115809.htm
I DIDN'T fit the cheap stereo.
So it's Adam's car you've been to see.
A regular PHer and good egg...also owner of the 400SX.
I was chatting to him at Blackpool last week.
Pity you can't stretch to this one that's just come on classifieds...my last car...a real beauty.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/1115809.htm
I DIDN'T fit the cheap stereo.
Edited by grahamw48 on Tuesday 30th June 00:19
Interesting comment regarding the brakes, were they ever good on the 350i? Mine are certainly poor but read the Motor road test from November 1986, even the test car seemed to have poor brakes !!! Good luck with your search for a goodun though, the most fun and noise for the money !!!!
OK I'll fess up, it's my car, but it's been interesting to watch the comments going by.
The brakes do come to you with use, and I haven't been driving it much in the past month as the 400SX went back on the road. THey are certainly good enough for 60-30 in 5 metres as demonstrated on the spin we had, but the pedal travel may be more than people are normally used to I suppose. It didn't feel unduly long to me but then "my other car is a TVR"!!
The brakes do come to you with use, and I haven't been driving it much in the past month as the 400SX went back on the road. THey are certainly good enough for 60-30 in 5 metres as demonstrated on the spin we had, but the pedal travel may be more than people are normally used to I suppose. It didn't feel unduly long to me but then "my other car is a TVR"!!
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/sales/1115809.htm
I DIDN'T fit the cheap stereo.
Edited by grahamw48 on Tuesday 30th June 00:19
[/quote]
just trying to describe it properly, i know i should have spent a bit more on the cd but i only bought it do 2006 Le Mans and then got hooked, and i will definately be back for another one day.;)
Kingfisher, my advice would be to look at as many different wedges as possible. When i was buying, i had a look at 10-15 cars and there was a massive variance in condition on cars in the same price bracket.
As said above, the shoddy gearchange is often perished remote housing rubbers, to test apply some upwards pressure on the gearstick when changing, if this improves the shift its probably the rubbers. Having said that the gearchange isn't exactly bolt action when its in good condition anyway. Not bad though.
The brakes on all the 350s i drove were poor unless they had been upgraded to wilwood et al. The brakes on the 390se wedges i drove were much better as standard.
I'd imagine there is not a sinle wedge in existance with uncracked walnut veneer, i stripped mine off the steel backing plate and painted the same colou as the body, cheap and effective.
The interior trim and leather will be expensive to replace. There are cars out there with good condition interiors, especially if they don't have the cream/grey leather. The interior of the car i bought looks like it has just rolled out of the factory rather than being 20 years old. I think out of all the cars i saw, 75% of the had seriously warn interiors. Make sure you check for damp on the carpets, particularly behind the seats, quite a few cars have rotten carpets.
As said above, the shoddy gearchange is often perished remote housing rubbers, to test apply some upwards pressure on the gearstick when changing, if this improves the shift its probably the rubbers. Having said that the gearchange isn't exactly bolt action when its in good condition anyway. Not bad though.
The brakes on all the 350s i drove were poor unless they had been upgraded to wilwood et al. The brakes on the 390se wedges i drove were much better as standard.
I'd imagine there is not a sinle wedge in existance with uncracked walnut veneer, i stripped mine off the steel backing plate and painted the same colou as the body, cheap and effective.
The interior trim and leather will be expensive to replace. There are cars out there with good condition interiors, especially if they don't have the cream/grey leather. The interior of the car i bought looks like it has just rolled out of the factory rather than being 20 years old. I think out of all the cars i saw, 75% of the had seriously warn interiors. Make sure you check for damp on the carpets, particularly behind the seats, quite a few cars have rotten carpets.
B-Reight said:
Kingfisher, my advice would be to look at as many different wedges as possible. When i was buying, i had a look at 10-15 cars and there was a massive variance in condition on cars in the same price bracket.
As said above, the shoddy gearchange is often perished remote housing rubbers, to test apply some upwards pressure on the gearstick when changing, if this improves the shift its probably the rubbers. Having said that the gearchange isn't exactly bolt action when its in good condition anyway. Not bad though.
The brakes on all the 350s i drove were poor unless they had been upgraded to wilwood et al. The brakes on the 390se wedges i drove were much better as standard.
I'd imagine there is not a sinle wedge in existance with uncracked walnut veneer, i stripped mine off the steel backing plate and painted the same colou as the body, cheap and effective.
The interior trim and leather will be expensive to replace. There are cars out there with good condition interiors, especially if they don't have the cream/grey leather. The interior of the car i bought looks like it has just rolled out of the factory rather than being 20 years old. I think out of all the cars i saw, 75% of the had seriously warn interiors. Make sure you check for damp on the carpets, particularly behind the seats, quite a few cars have rotten carpets.
I'm checking out as many as I can. Unfortunately, they are all pretty far away (I travelled to Cambridgeshire to see Adam's car, that was 92 quids worth of fuel.....we did go in my dad's chim!). As said above, the shoddy gearchange is often perished remote housing rubbers, to test apply some upwards pressure on the gearstick when changing, if this improves the shift its probably the rubbers. Having said that the gearchange isn't exactly bolt action when its in good condition anyway. Not bad though.
The brakes on all the 350s i drove were poor unless they had been upgraded to wilwood et al. The brakes on the 390se wedges i drove were much better as standard.
I'd imagine there is not a sinle wedge in existance with uncracked walnut veneer, i stripped mine off the steel backing plate and painted the same colou as the body, cheap and effective.
The interior trim and leather will be expensive to replace. There are cars out there with good condition interiors, especially if they don't have the cream/grey leather. The interior of the car i bought looks like it has just rolled out of the factory rather than being 20 years old. I think out of all the cars i saw, 75% of the had seriously warn interiors. Make sure you check for damp on the carpets, particularly behind the seats, quite a few cars have rotten carpets.
Yeah i think it's sods law, i think most of the cars for sale at the time i was buying were in Sussex (with me in Yorkshire).
You're quite welcome to come look at my car over in Ilkley if you like, for sake of comparison. It's not for sale though (well unless someone made me an offer i couldn't refuse)
You're quite welcome to come look at my car over in Ilkley if you like, for sake of comparison. It's not for sale though (well unless someone made me an offer i couldn't refuse)
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