Got my wedge back and a couple of niggles

[wombat172a]

Well,

After about 3 months of on/off working on the car, and trying to get it through the MOT I finally have my wedge back on the road Although driving 200+miles in the rain yesterday nearly saw it off the road again quite quickly!! Aquaplaning is definately something to be avoided in the wedge!

Anyway, a couple of niggles (not wanting to over-dramatise any problems, so they're definately niggles) I've spotted.

- my temperature guage has a habit of sitting normally (around 60-80 degrees), then working up to 100-120 over about a 20second period, and then shooting back down to 80-degrees in about 3 seconds. Is this likely to be a sensor/guage issue or something more sinister??

- A couple of times yesterday (when it dried & I could use the loud pedal) there was a puff of blue smoke from the rear. But this was only very occasionally. I did a compression check when I got back, and all readings were about 145-150 (dry, throttle closed) so I'm confident in that. Should I be concerned?

- Oh and typical sympton I think, my RH light pod no longer seems to stay up. It simply goes up & down (most of the way) again very quickly. Using the handle underneath I can't wind it up (one way bearing or something??) but I can wind it down the last part. When I wind it down it shoots up & down again. Has it just fallen off the end of it's travel or is there a sensor or something?


Hopefully it will be ready for the nurburgring next weekend

Thanks for any advice,

Chris

[CarbonWedge]

wombat172a said:

- my temperature guage has a habit of sitting normally (around 60-80 degrees), then working up to 100-120 over about a 20second period, and then shooting back down to 80-degrees in about 3 seconds. Is this likely to be a sensor/guage issue or something more sinister??

Could just be an air working it's way round the cooling system. Might be worth bleeding the system.

[Poledriver]

CarbonWedge said:

wombat172a said:

- my temperature guage has a habit of sitting normally (around 60-80 degrees), then working up to 100-120 over about a 20second period, and then shooting back down to 80-degrees in about 3 seconds. Is this likely to be a sensor/guage issue or something more sinister??

Could just be an air working it's way round the cooling system. Might be worth bleeding the system.

I had the same problem. Putting the lights/fan etc. on made it worse. It looks like either a bad negative connection to chassis/engine or a voltage regulation problem!

[wombat172a]

Excellent, cheers guys I'll bleed the system tonight if I get a chance.

New front brakes now fitted

With guide from thewedgepages in hand I had a look at the light pod last night, and it appears that the "lowering" part isn't working. Am I correct in assuming that all the electrical switchery is contained within the triangular box on the side of the motor?

Roll hoop being delivered today, and new tyres for tomorrow

Thanks,
Chris

[chedder]

Temp problem could also be down to a sticking thermostat, mine used to do the same until I replaced it with one of those 74* wide throat jobbys.

The headlight pod problem may also be down to a bad connection on one of the multi connectors in the O/S pod, this may also be causing an erratic fualt that affects the Temp gauge too, normally just split the all the connector blocks and apply a liberal dose of Plusgas or WD and reconnect and you may have the problem solved.
Behind the plastic cover on the lift motor is a pair of limit switchs, these have been known to stick due to the grease drying over a period of time, getting the motor out though to repair/replace is a job for an Octopus though!

Chedder

[wombat172a]

I was considering the thermostat, but it happens probably about once every 15-20 minutes of driving. So once it would be open it would stay open surely?

Think I'm going to ignore the light pod problem and just work it by hand until next week though.

Oh and as to other thoughts, so far I've...
Replaced rear discs/calipers/pads
Fitted new UJs to rear half shafts
Re-bushed rear suspension links & trailing arm mounts
Replaced front discs/pads
Replaced front suspension bushes where required (front now polybushed)
Checked steering linkages
Checked engine compression
Checked springs & shocks for cracks/leaks

And this week I'll be fitting new tyres, roll hoop, silencer cans and checking fluid levels.

What else would people consider if they were driving to the Nurburgring & back (with a couple of laps too)??

Many thanks,
Chris

[chedder]

AA + RAC European recovery might be an idea
T.V.R = Tow Vehicle Required....at least it was required with mine a month back at the WedgeFest

[mike.williams]

The thermostat opens and closes all the time, to keep the engine at the correct temp. If it stayed open the engine would cool beyond the optimum...

I'd would look at changing the brake fluid before your trip and make sure the pads are good fast road/track ones too. The ones fitted to my 350 were rubbish and they cooked on the first track session.. not day! Smoke out of all four wheel wells and pedal to the floor... not nice.
The fluid absorbs water over time (hydroscopic) so when you give it some real whelly it boils, the steam can be compressed hence the extra pedal travel and very damp drivers seat!...
Always wanted to go there, maybe one day, enjoy and bring it back under its own steam!
ATB, Mike

[H2DCA]

chedder said:

AA + RAC European recovery might be an idea
T.V.R = Tow Vehicle Required....at least it was required with mine a month back at the WedgeFest

Yep that's an idea, just got mine from the AA, £90 to cover me for my Euro hoon, watch out for some policy's as some will not cover taking the car back to the UK if terminal. RAC and AA seemed to be the best.
Cheers
Hamish

[wombat172a]

Excellent, european brake down cover sorted.


Currently trying to fit a tower view roll hoop, and it just doesn't look like it will fit! The main hoop looks like it will fowl on the seatbelt real. Has anybody else fitted one?? Or got one fitted?