New window frames from Automedon!!!!
Discussion
No not double glazing! I was having a chat with Dave from Automedon today and he is now able to reproduce the the door window frames for both the fixed head and drop head Wedges, available in mild steel or alloy and he is also looking at doing them in stainless.
As some of you Know these items can rot and fall apart on the wedge making window operation very difficult and they are extremely rare to get hold of and very difficult to reproduce so if you are in need of some here's the link http://www.automedon.co.uk
Chedder
As some of you Know these items can rot and fall apart on the wedge making window operation very difficult and they are extremely rare to get hold of and very difficult to reproduce so if you are in need of some here's the link http://www.automedon.co.uk
Chedder
simonwedge said:
Excellent news, has anyone changed theirs and how hard is it? My windows work fine but the bottom of the runners in particular are quite rusty - especially where they attach (bolt??) to the door assembly itself.
Wedgeman (Howard Bryan) had some handmade earlier this year for the White Elephant and I trial fitted them before it went off to Surface and Design for the body to be fettled, fitting is fairly straight forward but does require a bit of fiddling to get the correct adjustment and ensure that the window runs easily in the runners.More info and a couple of pics here (scroll down the page); http://www.tvrwhiteelephant.co.uk/content/archive....
Plus an update on the restoration
Chedder
The pricing will be (roughly) as we have not got the final price sorted yet mild steel and painted £170 per side,alloy(as per chims and griffs) £270 per side, And if we can Stainless at £370 per side. these are just some rough figures and hopefully we can do them cheaper we will have to see what the finished product is like. then a decision will be made.
grahamw48 said:
Hmmm.
Maybe my school metalwork will come in handy after all.
Not an easy thing to reproduce Graham, due to the curves, angles and various other bits of metal bracketry at the top and bottom, but if you have the facilities and equipment it's not an unsurpassable problem. Maybe my school metalwork will come in handy after all.
nemasis said:
The pricing will be (roughly) as we have not got the final price sorted yet mild steel and painted £170 per side,alloy(as per chims and griffs) £270 per side, And if we can Stainless at £370 per side. these are just some rough figures and hopefully we can do them cheaper we will have to see what the finished product is like. then a decision will be made.
Would that be the full frame (ie for a FHC) or just runners?simonwedge said:
Excellent news, has anyone changed theirs and how hard is it? My windows work fine but the bottom of the runners in particular are quite rusty - especially where they attach (bolt??) to the door assembly itself.
the whole lots comes out quite easy so should be easy to replace,I rebuilt mine but too ages.
When I rang the factory to enquire about new frames in 1997 I was told they were a bought-in item and the fab. shop had long since closed; a figure of £350 was mentioned but I can't remember if that was per pair or each!
A customer had brought in a Tasmin with rotten frames and they were handed to another fabrication company to copy. Apparently the results were less than satisfactory and needed a lot of jigging to make them fit. Consequently I was warned that if I did buy some there was no guarantee they would be the right shape for my car! The guy was extremely helpful and I'm sure that if he could have told me they were ripped from another car, he would have done. As with the seats though, it's entirely feasible the door frames were made by the same company that made them for Ford hence the apparent similarity.
The frames on my Tasmin FHC were corroded more above the door than inside it. I figured that I could cut sections out from the bottom and weld them back in at the top as long as I could find something to replace the in-door bits. As it happened my father was replacing the doors on his ageing Sierra and it transpired that the channel inside the Sierra door had exactly the same curvature as the TVR channel (in fact the TVR channel slotted inside the Sierra one). I blagged the old channels (galvanised, so still tidy!) off him and used them to fill the gaps!
Two different cross-sections of channel have been used to make the Wedge door frames: the early type looks like a squashed 'H' while the later one is a squared-off 'U'.
I still have the tin sheet template I made for my early attempts at making a channel from three strips of tin welded together at the edges... pretty it wasn't but it did work. These days I'd probably TIG it but back then it was spluttery MIG and lots of grinding
You could probably find a channel section of the correct dimensions 'by the metre' off the shelf somewhere, but rolling it to the correct radius would be beyond the average DIYer.
A customer had brought in a Tasmin with rotten frames and they were handed to another fabrication company to copy. Apparently the results were less than satisfactory and needed a lot of jigging to make them fit. Consequently I was warned that if I did buy some there was no guarantee they would be the right shape for my car! The guy was extremely helpful and I'm sure that if he could have told me they were ripped from another car, he would have done. As with the seats though, it's entirely feasible the door frames were made by the same company that made them for Ford hence the apparent similarity.
The frames on my Tasmin FHC were corroded more above the door than inside it. I figured that I could cut sections out from the bottom and weld them back in at the top as long as I could find something to replace the in-door bits. As it happened my father was replacing the doors on his ageing Sierra and it transpired that the channel inside the Sierra door had exactly the same curvature as the TVR channel (in fact the TVR channel slotted inside the Sierra one). I blagged the old channels (galvanised, so still tidy!) off him and used them to fill the gaps!
Two different cross-sections of channel have been used to make the Wedge door frames: the early type looks like a squashed 'H' while the later one is a squared-off 'U'.
I still have the tin sheet template I made for my early attempts at making a channel from three strips of tin welded together at the edges... pretty it wasn't but it did work. These days I'd probably TIG it but back then it was spluttery MIG and lots of grinding
You could probably find a channel section of the correct dimensions 'by the metre' off the shelf somewhere, but rolling it to the correct radius would be beyond the average DIYer.
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