Stroker kits - any good?
Discussion
Just having a look at stroker kits. Currently has an SD1 3.5 block, bored out to 93.5mm, with the standard (and actually very good according to the blurb) Cast Iron 71.12mm crank. Gives the 390se its 3905cc.
So, I could pop an 86mm crank in it to give 4.75ish litres and a big slug of extra torque. But then I guess I need rods ~7.5mm shorter to keep the compression height sensible...
If I did all this, would it just be a total dog at the top end unless I had the heads opened out even more and had bigger valves fitted to get the airflow up?
Any experience on this sort of mod?
Ta.
Ed.
P.S. this all assumes that the car has adjustable EFI - which it will. Fed up with 4CU.
So, I could pop an 86mm crank in it to give 4.75ish litres and a big slug of extra torque. But then I guess I need rods ~7.5mm shorter to keep the compression height sensible...
If I did all this, would it just be a total dog at the top end unless I had the heads opened out even more and had bigger valves fitted to get the airflow up?
Any experience on this sort of mod?
Ta.
Ed.
P.S. this all assumes that the car has adjustable EFI - which it will. Fed up with 4CU.
I think this is a common approach for Range Rovers.
You'll get bags more torque and I suppose that the top end will be limited by the breathing ability. It means you'll spend more time at lower revs and it'll be a much more relaxed car to drive.
I finx with the SX that the torque is there all the time, so mostly I don't have to drop a cog to accellerate, but the option is always there ;^)
You'll get bags more torque and I suppose that the top end will be limited by the breathing ability. It means you'll spend more time at lower revs and it'll be a much more relaxed car to drive.
I finx with the SX that the torque is there all the time, so mostly I don't have to drop a cog to accellerate, but the option is always there ;^)
depends on how complete you want it, but should be able to get a 100% complete or close for under a grand.
I paid <400 for mine but that was just block and heads, also was no history on if it was ok. was not going to use the block. so did not matter to me.
I got a tested block for <200 also.
you may want to pay more for a known ok engine, unless you plan on rebuilding as Gaskets are £100 for a full set plus 100+ for shells etc.
Also your need to fit the old style camshaft, unless you want to run 3rd party ECU.
I paid <400 for mine but that was just block and heads, also was no history on if it was ok. was not going to use the block. so did not matter to me.
I got a tested block for <200 also.
you may want to pay more for a known ok engine, unless you plan on rebuilding as Gaskets are £100 for a full set plus 100+ for shells etc.
Also your need to fit the old style camshaft, unless you want to run 3rd party ECU.
Stroker kits - any good?
Buy me one, I'll play guinea pig with my lump, and let you know how it worked out.
[edit] If you can afford it I would put in the roller chain and rockers too. Since you'd now be moving the pistons farther which in theory should work against high rpm's, rollers would help get some of that back.
Buy me one, I'll play guinea pig with my lump, and let you know how it worked out.
[edit] If you can afford it I would put in the roller chain and rockers too. Since you'd now be moving the pistons farther which in theory should work against high rpm's, rollers would help get some of that back.
Edited by Brap_Brap on Sunday 13th September 10:26
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