ok..engine out on Monday - any tips?

[sprevett]

biting the bullet to solve screeching from clutch area - so engine out at my local garagiste on Monday. I gather that exhaust manifolds can stay on? head honcho reckons to lift the engine out but leave gbox in situ...and that he'll possibly need to remove pulley at front of engine to gain enough clearance when pulling engine forward.

so, if anyone has a tried & tested 'procedure' for this exercise and any tips / do's & don'ts then I'd much appreciate it

ta
steve

[sprevett]

should add that i am referring to my 1986 350i S2, with power steering

[blaineuk]

think it is easier ton remove engine and box together, plus at least one manofold.

[pwd95]

Have you still got that SC lump Steve? Get that in there & scare me silly at BBWF 2010.

[grahamw48]

My engines were taken out with box (280 and 400)...both for clutch.

Might be a good time to check the mountings too. Mine needed replacing on the 400. Also gearbox rubbers ?

[Wedg1e]

Tips? Yeah, don't drop it on your foot...

[grahamw48]

I did that once with a bloody heavy old 3 litre Essex, when manhandling out of a trailer ...not recommended, but it does give you a raging burst of strength to complete the manoeuvre.

[CarbonWedge]

I got mine out ok without removing front pulley, but it would go back in easier without, I struggled lining it back up on the gear box and getting enough movement. I think I undid the manifolds at both ends, removed the near side, and then removed the drivers side as the engine comes up - it makes life easier without them in the way. I recommend labeling the loom, with something that won't rub off! Not that i'm speaking form experience

[adam quantrill]

My top tip is to get the front end jacked up to give more clearance as the gearbox end has to dip down quite a lot, also use a second rope fron the front engine hoist loop to the crance so you can adjust the angle.

[sprevett]

thanks guys - i like the idea of labelling the loom, gonna do that...and it sounds like taking engine & box out together is most favoured, but my chap reckoned it might be a problem getting enough tilt to get it all out - it's being done on the floor not on a ramp. Is the answer just to jack the front of the car up? has anyone taken engine out without the box attached?

[grahamw48]

I think Carbonwedge did.

I'd agree...label everything in sight with non-detachable labels !
Colour-coding them works well too.
Could save you no end of future head-scratching.

Eta: I also tie nuts and bolts off fittings back onto them in a little polybag, or screw them loosely into the appropriate holes of course.

Edited by grahamw48 on Saturday 5th December 12:20

[Barkychoc]

Don't know if this is useful to you - its V8S, you're in the wedge forum and your profile pic is a griff

http://tvrsseries.com/drawings/tvrv8wiring.jpg

By the way if the screeching changes depending on whether you have your foot on the clutch or not I'd guess release bearing.

Edited by Barkychoc on Saturday 5th December 13:15

[shpub]

The bible has a way of getting the gearbox out without removing the engine. The trick is to move the engine forward about 8 inches. You don't need to disconnect it from the loom or cooling system. Can be a lot easier than taking the engine out.

[shpub]

PS I always jack up the REAR of the car so that the front is angled down. Makes life very easy providing you have a long reach crane.

[sprevett]

thanks for tips Steve - can you get the gearbox out by moving engine forward 8 inches WITHOUT butchering the chassis at all? I'd heard that dropping the box out always entailed a bit of 'cut & shut' ??

[mac123yre]

Am in the process of taking my engine out first and box after, doing it tomorrow will let you know how it goes

[wooly350i]

Yes,we took engine out and left gearbox in situ,got the car up on 4 concrete blocks at front(2 either side) and axle stands at back.Long reach engine crane was used and i think manifolds could drop downwards with a bit of shunting engine from left to right obviously engine mounts were undone and gearbox fixings were loosened,once all the bolts were removed(keep note of which bolts came from where cos some connecting bell housing to engine are longer)a wide bladed screw driver and mallet should brake the two apart so long as they are supported all the time at same angle.Front pulley just about missed bar across the front,the angle is quite sharp mind and we used a trolley jack under the gearbox to keep it at same angle as engine,was a bugger to reconnect them again but with a bit of patience and a watchfull eye on the angles of the two and very slight rotating of splined shaft(or dont rotate either when apart)it'll go back together.My splines were not in line cos mine was a new engine so had never been mated,its all great for discussing down the pub,good luck,wooly

[blaineuk]

a picture of when i removed mine (the first time), the front is on blocks to allow the crane to go under, the rear is jacked up higher to reduce the angle needed to fit gearbox under the bulk head

[rev-erend]

If you remove the water pump - you can change the clutch with out removing a lot of cables etc .. by just pulling it forwards.. but sometimes it's just easier to remove all cables etc and just pull it all out..

Make sure you check all the little things while you are there ..

spigot bearing, flywheel, engine mounts etc..

[GV]

This is a good post. I need to get the engine and box out at some point next year to do a variety of things. I considered doing a body off job but I don't have anywhere to store the separate body and chassis. You lucky bastads with a garage don't know how privilged you are! What is needed is a step by step guide with lots of pics...

Good luck....