Suspension (please don't groan - hopefully an easy one)
Suspension (please don't groan - hopefully an easy one)
Author
Discussion

RedRum350i

Original Poster:

41 posts

207 months

Monday 7th December 2009
quotequote all
I'm getting the suspension done after Christmas and need to order new dampers and springs. Can anyone help with dimensions - the nice people at Demontweeks require open and closed dimensions, but apparently they have to be off the car to measure accurately! Have tried measuring on the car (on the floor and jacked up) but don't want to order new ones to find out I've got the wrong ones. I'm getting someone else to fit them, so taking them off to measure isn't practical (and beyond my skill - probably requires more tools than just a hammer!)

Does anyone have the dims to hand?

Thanks, Steve (1988 350i)

convert

3,757 posts

248 months

Monday 7th December 2009
quotequote all
Steve,
Are you going coil overs, or do you want a more standard setup?

I'd be careful with Coil overs, and look more towards the TVR specialists (RT racing, GAZ, ACT, etc)

I got RT Racing's springs for the standard type dampers for my '88 350i. Cost about £125 for the full set.

Just picked up some new old stock rear dampers for £60 the pair from WH Hooper n Telford. (The Koni's on the front are OK)

If you need me to measure the length of a standard rear damper I'd be happy to do that (not tonight though, Daughters Christmas concert)

RedRum350i

Original Poster:

41 posts

207 months

Monday 7th December 2009
quotequote all
Hi

Yes - sticking with the standard set up. Thanks for the tip on RT for the springs.

I'd appreciate the measurements for the rear when you get the chance (enjoy the concert tonight!).

Anyone else who can give me the measurements for the front?

Thanks

Steve

adam quantrill

11,679 posts

272 months

Monday 7th December 2009
quotequote all
Actually the fronts are almost free when you jack up the car, they only drop by about 1cm more, so just add on 1cm to your measurements. * Actually as I recall when you've disconnected the front anti roll bar too, which you might not want to do, although it is an easy couple of bolts. *

For the fully bound measurement you want to times the coil wire diameter by the number of turns.

Edited by adam quantrill on Wednesday 9th December 12:14

ed_crouch

1,169 posts

272 months

Monday 7th December 2009
quotequote all
Hi Steve,

If you're serious about the sprinting, you can have the Wedge converted to run coilovers, which will open up the option of using Nitron dampers, which are probably about the best out there. They are a grand a set though...

Otherwise, Richard Thorpe Racing will be a good bet for springs.

CarbonWedge

226 posts

248 months

Monday 7th December 2009
quotequote all
Got some new RT springs sitting waiting to fit, the free length is about 290mm. It's worth giving him a call for advice.

grahamw48

9,944 posts

268 months

Monday 7th December 2009
quotequote all
+1 for RTracing. He knows Wedges...end of . smile

I've had complete suspension replacement/upgrades done by him on two Wedges.

Wedg1e

27,040 posts

295 months

Tuesday 8th December 2009
quotequote all
adam quantrill said:
Actually the fronts are almost free when you jack up the car, they only drop by about 1cm more, so just add on 1cm to your measurements.
Ummm, not sure about that, I had to have a good deal of compression on my fronts before the tension came off the lower arm, and the compressors were at full stretch when I unwound them to remove from the spring.

GV

2,366 posts

254 months

Tuesday 8th December 2009
quotequote all
I'd be careful with Coil overs, and look more towards the TVR specialists (RT racing, GAZ, ACT, etc)

What is the issue with coilovers....??

convert

3,757 posts

248 months

Tuesday 8th December 2009
quotequote all
GV said:
I'd be careful with Coil overs, and look more towards the TVR specialists (RT racing, GAZ, ACT, etc)

What is the issue with coilovers....??
The main issue is with them ripping the bottom out of the front lower wishbones, so I've been told.

In the standard setup the spring exerts pressure on a bigger area of the wishbone, a coil over exerts it just through the mounting points for the shocker.

RedRum350i

Original Poster:

41 posts

207 months

Tuesday 8th December 2009
quotequote all
Thanks for the advice.

The choice to stick with the standard set up is partly cost, but also partly driving style. Ed - as you will know, there are all sorts of set ups in the sprinting arena. One of the competitors got their Chimp upgraded this year, and their first run out afterwards at Prescott resulted in a serious off and a costly repair bill!

My thinking is that keeping the standard set up (and relatively soft) keeps the car more predictable - it's easier to catch when it starts to step out. We're not good enough drivers to be able to catch a harder set up snapping away.

The clincher is that we also have to drive the car to events. Over 250 miles to Croft on "race suspension" will probaly mean we're not going to be able to drive it round the circuit when we get there.

Has anyone done an upgrade recently and can provide the measurements for the front?

Cheers, Steve

SEvans

1,191 posts

297 months

Tuesday 8th December 2009
quotequote all
Is there a reason you are buying from Demon Tweeks? If they are asking for dimensions it doesn't sound like they know the car???? Personally I'd buy from one of the specialists who knows the car.
Nothing against Demon tweeks, bought loads of stuff off them and had very good service but with something like spring, where there are a number of variables you need to buy from someone who knows.

GV

2,366 posts

254 months

Tuesday 8th December 2009
quotequote all
convert said:
GV said:
I'd be careful with Coil overs, and look more towards the TVR specialists (RT racing, GAZ, ACT, etc)

What is the issue with coilovers....??
The main issue is with them ripping the bottom out of the front lower wishbones, so I've been told.

In the standard setup the spring exerts pressure on a bigger area of the wishbone, a coil over exerts it just through the mounting points for the shocker.

Not if you adapt the mounting point to take the stresses - I'll post some pics of the work I have done to get the best set up whn I'm all done.