Discussion
My Zorst manifold bolts have been merrily un-doing themselves over the past few weeks & I've managed to get them all 'nipped' up nicely but one of the gaskets has started to blow now so I might as well do them all & put some new bolts in at the same time. These'll doth job won't they.....
ebay
ebay
shpub said:
Stainless steel bolts into Aluminium is usually classed as a no-no as the two metals galvanically corrode over time. End result could be a set of broken off bolts in the heads.
Really, s
te, better re-use the old ones for now then with the new washers. 
P.S. I'll be on the blower later for some drop links.

Hi Rich, yeah drivers side, started yesterday. Hope your coping ok without it! It's going very well, really getting in to it now. I had one of those coolant 'T' joints go too, so swapped that out. Happened as I was coming in to the village so managed to nip it back to the garage in a cloud of steam.
Bit of fettling over Xmas now & she'll be as good as new for the new year. 
Bit of fettling over Xmas now & she'll be as good as new for the new year. Much better to get the ARP exhaust bolts .. being 10mm rather than 13mm .. it makes them much easier to undo / do up..
ARP bolts :
http://www.v8tuner.co.uk/product.php?id=222
ARP bolts :
http://www.v8tuner.co.uk/product.php?id=222
Using some form of lubrication/anti-seize compound will help with galvanic corrosion.
I'm surprised that ARP market stainless for this application.
Other options are wire thread inserts or avoiding using stainless steel. I've pondered using high tensile steel hex cap heads but haven't sourced them yet.
I'm surprised that ARP market stainless for this application.
Other options are wire thread inserts or avoiding using stainless steel. I've pondered using high tensile steel hex cap heads but haven't sourced them yet.
pwd95 said:
Hi Rich, yeah drivers side, started yesterday. Hope your coping ok without it! It's going very well, really getting in to it now. I had one of those coolant 'T' joints go too, so swapped that out. Happened as I was coming in to the village so managed to nip it back to the garage in a cloud of steam.
Bit of fettling over Xmas now & she'll be as good as new for the new year. 
Gald to hear it, she was always good to me. Coping Ok, not great I think I'll always have that itch, but ok. Always gets me though, when I open the garage door, for that split second that big empty space always seems to take me by surprise
Bit of fettling over Xmas now & she'll be as good as new for the new year.
, funny after having Wedges for so long just can't get used to an empty garage. Those bloody 'T' joints, always planned to look for some metal ones, rather than the plastic/nylon ones, not sure if you can get them though, sure I saw something in the past. When you've finished your fetling I'll have to join you for one of your runs out pwd95 said:
Well, had the manifold off, put it back on with fresh gaskets, attached the manifold to the head first before re-connecting to the zorst to avoid any tension issues & it's still puffing out the back of the head. 
The faces of the port look nice & even too if a bit thin. Baffled now.
Could it be a cracked manifold? I had this at the Y joint between the primaries. Very difficult to see. Every time I welded it up it cracked again within minutes of starting the engine. I only managed to stop it cracking by welding it insitu.
The faces of the port look nice & even too if a bit thin. Baffled now.
pwd95 said:
Well, had the manifold off, put it back on with fresh gaskets, attached the manifold to the head first before re-connecting to the zorst to avoid any tension issues & it's still puffing out the back of the head. 
The faces of the port look nice & even too if a bit thin. Baffled now.
I had a similar problem, with the manifold being pulled/twisted by the tie bar that joins the pipes together. I just cut the tie bar between the ports and it literally sprang into line! Never to blow again...
The faces of the port look nice & even too if a bit thin. Baffled now.


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