clutch slave cylinder 350i

[HOTTY]

now that my 350i is running (thanks to wed1ge) i was planning moving forward, literally but couldn't as the clutch slave was solid.
i have removed and released the piston but knew before i put it back on that it was not working properly

it does not work,the piston does not return quickly, maybe the few years been stationary have taken it's toll.

anyway, does anybody have a spare ? (pilo-wedgebits/shaun was one still left on the shell when you cut your old car into two ?)

email me or call 07801 336554

Thanks
Stephen

[Wedg1e]

Probably just needs a seal kit and the bore & piston polishing with T-cut or similar. Less than a fiver

[Mr Tank]

Hotty

New slaves are not expensive, dont mess about just buy a new one of f-bay!

Andy

P.S I will do my templete soon!

[HOTTY]

well things were going good, a bit of luck as the master cylinder (not as posted slave)had a day to settle in and begain working fine, pushing the clutch pedal back as it should. GREAT
Having refilled the fluid and bled the system i was expecting a trip to the shops. No, unfortunately this time the slave cylinder was stuck as the pedal wouldn't move.
Had a quick lookie the the book(sh) and the tvr parts catalogue thought i knew what to do and expect, no, wrong again.
Thinking the pole that pushes the piston was connected to the slave cylinder, pulled the lot out this has disconnected the clutch arm as shown on the drgs.
Have i cocked up big style and will now need to part engine and gear box to repostion ?(someone hand me a gun).
The good news is that the slave cylinder released very easy and now is working fine (boo hoo, boo hoo)
please somebody tell me some good news
Stephen

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[Solitude]

please somebody tell me some good news
Stephen

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my brickie worked all day on my extension cos the sun was out !!

[Mr Tank]

Hotty

To solve your problem!

A Can of petrol and a match!

Sorry doesn't sound nice, but if the release lever has come lose you may have to move the engine forward and play with the clutch with the little room left! See Adams idea in Steve Heaths Bible!

Andy

[Wedg1e]

HOTTY said:

well things were going good, a bit of luck as the master cylinder (not as posted slave)had a day to settle in and begain working fine, pushing the clutch pedal back as it should. GREAT
Having refilled the fluid and bled the system i was expecting a trip to the shops. No, unfortunately this time the slave cylinder was stuck as the pedal wouldn't move.
Had a quick lookie the the book(sh) and the tvr parts catalogue thought i knew what to do and expect, no, wrong again.
Thinking the pole that pushes the piston was connected to the slave cylinder, pulled the lot out this has disconnected the clutch arm as shown on the drgs.
Have i cocked up big style and will now need to part engine and gear box to repostion ?(someone hand me a gun).
The good news is that the slave cylinder released very easy and now is working fine (boo hoo, boo hoo)
please somebody tell me some good news
Stephen

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Oo, now you've done it

The release arm you're pointing at (item 9) has a dimple in it that locates on a post (item 8) screwed into the gearbox. To keep the arm on the post it has a forked spring that hooks around the back of the ball on the end of the post (if you follow me!). You can't see the forked spring in the diagram as it's on the reverse of the arm.
'Simply' re-engage the spring around the ball, simultaneously interfacing the other end of the arm with the release bearing and Fanny's your aunty.
Yes, it's much easier with the engine out of the way, but a minor inconvenience to a man of your capabilities...
I have heard of people cutting a hole in the bottom of the bellhousing to gain access, then screwing a plate over the hole afterwards...

[HOTTY]

arrrr..crap
it's like a test of faith this car, only ever a promise of paradise
were's my petrol can !
the good news though, solitude getting on with his extention
out with the spanners again, as there is no chance of fitting the arm back on with out the engine been moved.

[Wedg1e]

HOTTY said:

arrrr..crap
it's like a test of faith this car, only ever a promise of paradise
were's my petrol can !
the good news though, solitude getting on with his extention
out with the spanners again, as there is no chance of fitting the arm back on with out the engine been moved.

Take off propshaft and gearlever, slide the box back in the chassis and see if you can get to it that way...?

[HOTTY]

thanks ian
i only need a bit of space and that might do.
i need to remove the exhaust for that one bolt, presume i need to buy the tap too for the helicoil(daft question).
will be getting started straight away on moving the gear box (not tonight though)
cheers

[Wedg1e]

HOTTY said:

thanks ian
i only need a bit of space and that might do.
i need to remove the exhaust for that one bolt, presume i need to buy the tap too for the helicoil(daft question).
will be getting started straight away on moving the gear box (not tonight though)
cheers

Yep, like a gynaecologist, you only need to get one hand in

You normally buy a thread repair kit - like these from Recoil (we use them at work)...

http://www.toolfastdirect.co.uk/acatalog/UNC_Recoi...

I think 3/8" x 16 UNC is the right size. In the kit you get a tap, a number of thread inserts and an insertion tool. You'll also need a drill bit of the appropriate size (should be stated in kit). The tap creates a special thread that suits the outside of the insert; once the insert is wound in with the insertion tool, it replicates the thread you started with. As long as you can drill and tap the hole square you should have no problems. You may find that when you put the manifold back on, you can't get the bolt to catch the thread 'cos the drill ran slightly off-centre (usually the case when you drill out a threaded hole)... in which case just open out the bolt hole in the manifold by a mill or so.

[350zwelgje]

[quote=Wedg1eI have heard of people cutting a hole in the bottom of the bellhousing to gain access, then screwing a plate over the hole afterwards...
[/quote]

Had the same problem (first thinking the hydraulics needed attention, but it didn't fix it!), result doing what wedg1e discribed. End of the story: it worked, and it is still going strong...... And ended up with a nice inspection hole in the process ;-) for futher investigations.

Rob

[Solitude]

the good news though, solitude getting on with his extention

[/quote]

thanks for seeing the funny side mate...... believe me its as painful as the cars right now...rained off again today, please bring back the sun (and another 5 degrees) !!! i'm sick and tired of eating off my lap in front of arseenders !!! (plate on a tray in case you......)
good luck and sorry for the hijack

[adam quantrill]

I would agree - cut the hole - there still won't be enough room if you slide the g/b back 'cos the clutch will be in the way. It'll be much quicker, too.

If it ever goes wrong, bellhousings are easy to come by.

[HOTTY]

adam quantrill said:

I would agree - cut the hole - there still won't be enough room if you slide the g/b back 'cos the clutch will be in the way. It'll be much quicker, too.

If it ever goes wrong, bellhousings are easy to come by.

thanks folks

can this be done on your back after the car is propped up on axle stands ? or is it a garage job (i have large and small angle grinders). If so i will have to see if pilo-wedgiebits has finished with mine axle stands.

what material would be used to cover the hole ? (would the hole be as big as the flat on the bottom of the bell housing)

adam would you not recommend sliding the engine forward or is it too much a pain in the rear to bother ?

solitude, if we can't laugh at our own fu4k ups, we might as well give up and buy a ford

anyway i learn as i rectify

[adam quantrill]

Put it this way - I did my clutch with the engine forward and the g/b back a bit, and there was just about enough room to get at the cover plate bolts and then slide it out. You couldn't get your hand in there (but maybe a small child could - hmmm is it bob-a-job week coming up ;^) It depends how far you move the engine, the more you move it, the more you have to disconnect, which all adds to the time.

You need a big enough hole to get your hand in - and out - comfortably.

[HOTTY]

All i have to say is SOD IN HELL.
I will add a bit more, cutting the hole in the bellhousing was easy. Locating the arm back on the dimple with the forks at the back whilst trying to line up the two......I said two pivoting guides at the top of the arm , with the piston droping off was........ well difficult as you need three hands but only one hole,
as the vicar would say.
Thats now done, fluid back in, bleed, clutch tested to ensure works and drive rear wheels, finished.

My next problem Whilst bleeding the brakes I couldn't get any fluid to the rear ?
I check back to the master and found it full of crap when i took the piston out.
I cleaned everything up, check the seals (not the ones in the sea) which seemed to be ok but after fixing back on the car still nothing ? Help

[Wedg1e]

HOTTY said:

My next problem Whilst bleeding the brakes I couldn't get any fluid to the rear ?
I check back to the master and found it full of crap when i took the piston out.
I cleaned everything up, check the seals (not the ones in the sea) which seemed to be ok but after fixing back on the car still nothing ? Help

Air in the system? Try sucking the fluid through rather than relying on the master cyl. to pump it. You can buy vacuum bleeders but your mouth can accomplish the same feat with minimal expense (as long as you like the taste of brake fluid... ).

[Number 7]

Worth getting a pressure bleeding kit - the type that uses air from a tyre to drive the fluid through. Are you rear calipers new? The reason I ask is that the last pair I fitted had not been properly cleaned, and there was some debris behind the bleed nipple which was preventing the fluid passing. Rather than taking the caliper off again just to check, I removed the nipple completely and used a mirror to see the obstruction.

7.

[SEvans]

If it's just the rears, there is also a bias valve between the Master Cylinder and Rear Calipers. Could this be causing a problem? Cheers Steve