Adustable fuel regulator shagged, any recommendations?
Discussion
My FPR (looks like one of the Malpassi/FSE ones) is borked, it changes static fuel pressure seemingly at will whilst the adjustment screw stays perfectly where i left it.
Has anyone got any recommendations for a replacement? Should i go with FSE again or are they a bit crap (this ones only 3 years old). Anyone tried one of the ebay specials; http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ADJUSTABLE-FUEL-PRESSURE-REG...
Has anyone got any recommendations for a replacement? Should i go with FSE again or are they a bit crap (this ones only 3 years old). Anyone tried one of the ebay specials; http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ADJUSTABLE-FUEL-PRESSURE-REG...
Edited by B-Reight on Thursday 4th March 15:19
I think that I may have an old Weber adjustable which I took off of my 400 when I had the hotwire style injectors and fuel rail fitted. It's a few years old, but working when when removed. If it's any good to you I'll have a look for it. I assume that you have hooked up a gauge to the fuel system?
7.
7.
So let's get this straight:
44psi (engine not running)
30psi (engine running - idle - vaccuum connected)
if so, that isn't too far off the mark, is it?
One ther thing worth checking - take off the return pipe and blow down it, it should be free of obstruction, or else the regulator will struggle to do anything meaningful.
44psi (engine not running)
30psi (engine running - idle - vaccuum connected)
if so, that isn't too far off the mark, is it?
One ther thing worth checking - take off the return pipe and blow down it, it should be free of obstruction, or else the regulator will struggle to do anything meaningful.
No 44psi engine not running, 30 psi (and allsorts of other random pressures) also engine not running, just after driving for a bit. It'll then return to 44psi base pressure after a few hours sat there doing nothing.
The vac works, its just that the base pressure changes as im driving along, with a corresponding weak mixture. I can turn the reg up to compensate or let it cool down (for several hours)
The vac works, its just that the base pressure changes as im driving along, with a corresponding weak mixture. I can turn the reg up to compensate or let it cool down (for several hours)
Edited by B-Reight on Thursday 4th March 20:22
Edited by B-Reight on Thursday 4th March 20:24
Well, just stripped the regulator down and the rubber diaphragms are intact but look fairly stretched and it looks like the valve isn't seating correctly all the time.
Having seen the internals i can't think that the 30 quid ebay jobbies could be worse as there is bugger all to these things, certainly nothing to justify FSEs 100 quid price tag.
Having seen the internals i can't think that the 30 quid ebay jobbies could be worse as there is bugger all to these things, certainly nothing to justify FSEs 100 quid price tag.
Edited by B-Reight on Sunday 7th March 13:20
B-Reight said:
Well, just stripped the regulator down and the rubber diaphragms are intact but look fairly stretched and it looks like the valve isn't seating correctly all the time.
Having seen the internals i can't think that the 30 quid ebay jobbies could be worse as there is bugger all to these things, certainly nothing to justify FSEs 100 quid price tag.
Hi B-Reight, after a bit of a rummage in the garage I've found it. If you still want it (no cost) PM me with your address.Having seen the internals i can't think that the 30 quid ebay jobbies could be worse as there is bugger all to these things, certainly nothing to justify FSEs 100 quid price tag.
Edited by B-Reight on Sunday 7th March 13:20
7.
I guess I'm at a disadvantage, not knowing what efi system you have, but if a flapper fitted to 3.9, wouldn't the the normal designed fuel pressure be in the range 26 min to 36 max psi.
With an adjustable FPR fitted one might raise it a bit, to boost performance under load, but 44 psi seems to me like 8/36 or 22% of serious overfuelling and abysmal mpg.
If the return line is not blocked it looks like the maximum fuel pressure needs to be adjusted much nearer to 36 or the FPR is croaked.
With an adjustable FPR fitted one might raise it a bit, to boost performance under load, but 44 psi seems to me like 8/36 or 22% of serious overfuelling and abysmal mpg.
If the return line is not blocked it looks like the maximum fuel pressure needs to be adjusted much nearer to 36 or the FPR is croaked.
John, 36psi(base) is the stock setting for a 3.5 landrover, because the TVR used the same AFM, injectors and ECU for the 3.9 they increased the fuel pressure to get the correct(ish) fuelling for the larger capacity. I have 2 bits of paper from tvr manuals/brochures quoting both 2.75 & 3 bar fuel pressure (40&44psi) for the 3.9.
I've got a wideband lambda permanently fitted so i can adjust for best fuelling anyhow.
When i had my car on the dyno last year we ran it at 38psi and it under fuelled and only made about 160bhp.
I've got a wideband lambda permanently fitted so i can adjust for best fuelling anyhow.
When i had my car on the dyno last year we ran it at 38psi and it under fuelled and only made about 160bhp.
B-Reight said:
I have 2 bits of paper from tvr manuals/brochures quoting both 2.75 & 3 bar fuel pressure (40&44psi) for the 3.9.
I've got a wideband lambda permanently fitted so i can adjust for best fuelling anyhow.
When i had my car on the dyno last year we ran it at 38psi and it under fuelled and only made about 160bhp.
With the injectors I have, the only way I could get my 390 to run anything like properly was to drop the fuel pressure to 1.8 Bar I've got a wideband lambda permanently fitted so i can adjust for best fuelling anyhow.
When i had my car on the dyno last year we ran it at 38psi and it under fuelled and only made about 160bhp.

How does your lambda sensor integrate with the Lucas EFi? Or is it just a standalone reading that you use as a guide when twid... er, optimising? Is it a permanent install (welded boss in the pipe etc.), or poked up the tailpipe...? Could be interested in such a widget myself.
Hi Ian, i've got one of these http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm and one of these http://wbo2.com/la1/default.htm as a permanent install. I've got a bung in both manifolds but the sensor can only run one sensor so i run off one bank and can swap the sensor over to check the other. It can also log things like Throttle position sensor, afm deflection and rpm to a laptop as well (waiting for the postman to deliver my serial to usb convertor before i can try that tho')
It's not integrated into the ECU, as you say its just for optimising/twiddling and checking that i'm not running dangerous mixtures.
Reading around it seems that the american landrovers did have lambda feedback (for emissions purposes) and the tracks are on the UK ECU PCBs but the components are absent so maybe it's possible to integrate lambda feedback on ours.
It's not integrated into the ECU, as you say its just for optimising/twiddling and checking that i'm not running dangerous mixtures.
Reading around it seems that the american landrovers did have lambda feedback (for emissions purposes) and the tracks are on the UK ECU PCBs but the components are absent so maybe it's possible to integrate lambda feedback on ours.
Edited by B-Reight on Monday 8th March 19:11
Has anyone got any recommendations for a replacement? Should i go with FSE again or are they a bit crap (this ones only 3 years old). Anyone tried one of the ebay specials; http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ADJUSTABLE-FUEL-PRESSURE-REG...
I have one of these fitted to my 400se, bought with it on. Will take some pics tomorrow and post as it looks like there was a bit of changing to get it to fit.
I have one of these fitted to my 400se, bought with it on. Will take some pics tomorrow and post as it looks like there was a bit of changing to get it to fit.
B-Reight said:
Hi Ian, i've got one of these http://wbo2.com/2j/default.htm and one of these http://wbo2.com/la1/default.htm as a permanent install. I've got a bung in both manifolds but the sensor can only run one sensor so i run off one bank and can swap the sensor over to check the other. It can also log things like Throttle position sensor, afm deflection and rpm to a laptop as well (waiting for the postman to deliver my serial to usb convertor before i can try that tho')
It's not integrated into the ECU, as you say its just for optimising/twiddling and checking that i'm not running dangerous mixtures.
Reading around it seems that the american landrovers did have lambda feedback (for emissions purposes) and the tracks are on the UK ECU PCBs but the components are absent so maybe it's possible to integrate lambda feedback on ours.
Cheers for that... yes I have the info on the US-market ECUs as well, as you say it'd be easy enough to add the missing bits. How driveable the thing would be is another matter, having heard how strangled some cars ended up to meet Yankee emission regs. Maybe if they'd just passed a law prohibiting the sale of 57L people carriers (Suburbans!) the planet would be in better shape... It's not integrated into the ECU, as you say its just for optimising/twiddling and checking that i'm not running dangerous mixtures.
Reading around it seems that the american landrovers did have lambda feedback (for emissions purposes) and the tracks are on the UK ECU PCBs but the components are absent so maybe it's possible to integrate lambda feedback on ours.

Don't suppose you've made a note of the various 'tune' resistors in your ECU, have you?
OK thanks for that, - I understand now.
I may still be out of my depth but there are still arithmetic issues, don't you think?
o A 3.9 has 4/35 or 11% increase in capacity but 44 psi give 22% increased fuel = over-fuelling
o For a 3.9. the dyno test with 38 psi or 2/36 or 5.5% fuel increase = under-fuelling - to be expected, even?
o To run correctly the 40 psi setting or 4/36 or 11% matches the 3.9 engine at 11% also.
o Suggest a ritual burning of the 44 psi piece of paper.
Moving on - other over-fuelling possibilities may contribute to the problem.
o A PO has also adjusted the AFM innards to give over-fuelling?
o The internal AFM spring has age-related weakening causing over-fuelling?
o Can one perform dyno test for maximum BHP versus fuel pressure?
o Subjectively adjust the fuel pressure until it "just feels good" at full load
o Adjust fuel pressure for plug colour correct at light straw, not grey/black nor white?
o Restricted fuel return line?
o Partially blocked breather?
o Temp sensor croaking?
o Throttle Pot noisy?
o Air filter dirty?
I may still be out of my depth but there are still arithmetic issues, don't you think?
o A 3.9 has 4/35 or 11% increase in capacity but 44 psi give 22% increased fuel = over-fuelling
o For a 3.9. the dyno test with 38 psi or 2/36 or 5.5% fuel increase = under-fuelling - to be expected, even?
o To run correctly the 40 psi setting or 4/36 or 11% matches the 3.9 engine at 11% also.
o Suggest a ritual burning of the 44 psi piece of paper.

Moving on - other over-fuelling possibilities may contribute to the problem.
o A PO has also adjusted the AFM innards to give over-fuelling?
o The internal AFM spring has age-related weakening causing over-fuelling?
o Can one perform dyno test for maximum BHP versus fuel pressure?
o Subjectively adjust the fuel pressure until it "just feels good" at full load
o Adjust fuel pressure for plug colour correct at light straw, not grey/black nor white?
o Restricted fuel return line?
o Partially blocked breather?
o Temp sensor croaking?
o Throttle Pot noisy?
o Air filter dirty?
Edited by honestjohntoo on Tuesday 9th March 02:25
Well I have one on the 350i, it looks like an FSE one, and it's been on there 6 or 7 years with no problems, maybe longer. I usually adjust it to just richer than the normal 2.75 bar, maybe your problems started because it was set much higher and stretched the diaphragm, or something like that?
Perpahs a cheaper option would just to get some new innards?
Perpahs a cheaper option would just to get some new innards?
B-Reight said:
Ian..
I haven't made a note but i can take a look if you want. A landrover mad friend has also lent me a pair of Range Rover ECUs to take a look at.
If it's the genuine 390SE unit it should differ from standard RR/350i... if you get 5 mins to note the variations and PM me that'd be good I haven't made a note but i can take a look if you want. A landrover mad friend has also lent me a pair of Range Rover ECUs to take a look at.
Edited by B-Reight on Tuesday 9th March 14:11

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