More tinkering-new clutch
Discussion
After getting the fuelling sorted and then the suspension, the third part of getting the wedge up to scratch starts today, engine out for a new clutch. Like the other problems, I knew this was going to need doing. While out at the weekend, on a recy visit to the Solway auto grass meeting (I am getting a saxo ready for entering the class 1 for my nephew) the clutch was starting to spin up more noticeably in all the gears. Although still drivable, I have to be delicate with the right foot so decided now is the time.
Tested the manifold bolts last night and they all came loose so a good start. I don't really see any problems but no doubt will be asking here if there is. I am leaving the gearbox in, purely because I can't see any reason for it to come out. False economy???
First job is to gunk the front of the engine, to lesson the dirt and see what is what. Its a bit dirty down there, not with leaking oil, its just never been cleaned.
Will keep ya posted, if anyone interested. May even take some pics along the way
Tested the manifold bolts last night and they all came loose so a good start. I don't really see any problems but no doubt will be asking here if there is. I am leaving the gearbox in, purely because I can't see any reason for it to come out. False economy???
First job is to gunk the front of the engine, to lesson the dirt and see what is what. Its a bit dirty down there, not with leaking oil, its just never been cleaned.
Will keep ya posted, if anyone interested. May even take some pics along the way
Modify the clutch release arm or buy a new one while you are shopping. They are a known weak area and can often break after a clutch change.
Have a look on this thread - pictures of mine and Steve Heaths modified items
OK if you have a welder and some 3mm plate. Clever Trevor does one for £27 - so good value. Also worth avoiding one make of clutch - several wedge owners have had issues... so beware.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
Have a look on this thread - pictures of mine and Steve Heaths modified items
OK if you have a welder and some 3mm plate. Clever Trevor does one for £27 - so good value. Also worth avoiding one make of clutch - several wedge owners have had issues... so beware.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
Edited by rev-erend on Wednesday 12th May 09:09
gsx600 said:
like the cold air feed, but looks a bit close to some pulleys there 
When I bought the car last month, that's all that was on it, no filter just the green pipe connected onto the AFM. Although it did have what remained of a pair of girly's tights on the other end (not sure if they were used or not 
It runs a couple of inch away from the pulleys so I left it on.
engine nearly ready for lifting, Manifolds are loose, engine mounts and bell housing to disconnect, oil pipes to move
Edited by TOPTON on Wednesday 12th May 15:02
I had my clutch (400SE) replaced at RTracing.
Richard said the correct OE clutch was Borg and Beck, and that's what was fitted. NOT the same as the 350i type.
The reason I was particular was because shortly before I bought the car, an aftermarket clutch had been fitted, and this had lasted less than 4,000 miles before starting to slip. That was without any abuse...certainly not from me.
If you want belt and braces, then the early 500 Griff clutch can be fitted for about another 50 quid.
Richard said the correct OE clutch was Borg and Beck, and that's what was fitted. NOT the same as the 350i type.
The reason I was particular was because shortly before I bought the car, an aftermarket clutch had been fitted, and this had lasted less than 4,000 miles before starting to slip. That was without any abuse...certainly not from me.
If you want belt and braces, then the early 500 Griff clutch can be fitted for about another 50 quid.
I've just added a clutch section to the FAQ articles
I describe what I did in the last one but you don't have to take the engine right out, leave the manifolds on too. It took me maybe 12 hours and I paid £120 for the new clutch + pressure plate. You'll probably it's the pressure plate springs that are the problem.
My clutch has lasted over 10k miles with 320bhp and similar torques on tap, so it's done the business.
I describe what I did in the last one but you don't have to take the engine right out, leave the manifolds on too. It took me maybe 12 hours and I paid £120 for the new clutch + pressure plate. You'll probably it's the pressure plate springs that are the problem.
My clutch has lasted over 10k miles with 320bhp and similar torques on tap, so it's done the business.
I was going to remove both, but decided not to, no reason really.
When I took the clutch plate out, I noticed it had been put in the wrong way round. It says on it 'fly wheel this side' but it wasn't. Strange
Anyway, got the engine cleaned up and sprayed the odd bits in gunmetal, although the tin said metallic black. Will start on the engine bay tomorrow and order new clutch and things
When I took the clutch plate out, I noticed it had been put in the wrong way round. It says on it 'fly wheel this side' but it wasn't. Strange
Anyway, got the engine cleaned up and sprayed the odd bits in gunmetal, although the tin said metallic black. Will start on the engine bay tomorrow and order new clutch and things
Looks better,
1st time, I've seen a 4.0 Flapper plenum with a 4.0 badge.
As said I've just found it quicker and easier to remove the box with the engine and split and join outside then trying to line up the engine to box in the car.
Also found it easier to leave the main engine mounts on the engine and remove the rubber mounts. and then fit them when putting the engine back up.
1st time, I've seen a 4.0 Flapper plenum with a 4.0 badge.
As said I've just found it quicker and easier to remove the box with the engine and split and join outside then trying to line up the engine to box in the car.
Also found it easier to leave the main engine mounts on the engine and remove the rubber mounts. and then fit them when putting the engine back up.
Wedg1e said:
TOPTON said:
Anyway, got the engine cleaned up and sprayed the odd bits in gunmetal, although the tin said metallic black.
Sounds like the Halfords high-temperature paint I used on my inlet manifold: 'metallic black' my bumhole, that's graphite/gunmetal grey...
Well done that man. I did buy it from Halfords to use on the manifolds, but quite liked it on the rocker covers and plenum.
TVRleigh_BBWR said:
Looks better,
1st time, I've seen a 4.0 Flapper plenum with a 4.0 badge.
As said I've just found it quicker and easier to remove the box with the engine and split and join outside then trying to line up the engine to box in the car.
Also found it easier to leave the main engine mounts on the engine and remove the rubber mounts. and then fit them when putting the engine back up.
I can't see how I would get the engine back in with the mounts still attached. Unless of course I remove the exhaust manifolds off the car. But then I can't see how I could get the manifolds back on in such a tight space 1st time, I've seen a 4.0 Flapper plenum with a 4.0 badge.
As said I've just found it quicker and easier to remove the box with the engine and split and join outside then trying to line up the engine to box in the car.
Also found it easier to leave the main engine mounts on the engine and remove the rubber mounts. and then fit them when putting the engine back up.
TOPTON said:
I can't see how I would get the engine back in with the mounts still attached. Unless of course I remove the exhaust manifolds off the car. But then I can't see how I could get the manifolds back on in such a tight space
Very True, I've taken the engine out with a manifolds attached.You use a big lever to get them past the bits they snag on, it's mot a problem usually.
I bet it was your pressure plate going that did for the clutch. If you press it back on by hand, how much of a gap is there between the pressure plate and the flywheel? Compare that to when you get the replacement, it'll be a good 1/4" before you start putting the bolts on.
I bet it was your pressure plate going that did for the clutch. If you press it back on by hand, how much of a gap is there between the pressure plate and the flywheel? Compare that to when you get the replacement, it'll be a good 1/4" before you start putting the bolts on.
adam quantrill said:
You use a big lever to get them past the bits they snag on, it's mot a problem usually.
I bet it was your pressure plate going that did for the clutch. If you press it back on by hand, how much of a gap is there between the pressure plate and the flywheel? Compare that to when you get the replacement, it'll be a good 1/4" before you start putting the bolts on.
Will check that when the new one arrives. As I mentioned earlier, the clutch plate was in the wrong way round, do you think this made any difference to its operation ??? I cant see how it does, but then there wouldn't be a right and wrong way otherwise I guessI bet it was your pressure plate going that did for the clutch. If you press it back on by hand, how much of a gap is there between the pressure plate and the flywheel? Compare that to when you get the replacement, it'll be a good 1/4" before you start putting the bolts on.
adam quantrill said:
Only if the spline bit on the clutch is offset in some way, it might snag on something. I suppose the engine would be rotating the "wrong way" too but that might only be a problem if there are shaped channels in the friction material and they are getting clogged up with dust.
It seems the friction plate has been stamped 'flywheel this side' on the wrong side. The plate will only go in one way because it is offset. I asked the guy I ordered my clutch from at V8Tuners.co and he said its not unusual to be wrong. £150 for 3 piece clutch and manifold gaskets. He said there was no reason to go uprated unless I was upping the power somewhat. Sounded like a very knowledgeable guy and very helpful. Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff